98 non turbo 2.4 spider balnce shaft?

[lilblkshp]

front balance shaft belt lost all its teeth and took out the cps. so i replaced the cps and timing belt, put a new belt on the balance shaft and triple checked the timing marks. fired her up and she runs fine but rattles like all get out. balance shaft bearings? someone please help

 

[delta448]

Did you remember to put the balance shafts into correct alignment with the crank?

 

[bradselph]

If your positive the front shaft is lined up then recheck the rear shaft it can be lined up but be 180 out at the same time.

Best to remove the rear balance shaft inspection plug in the rear of the block under the intake manifold and insert a 3 inch or longer screw driver if it only goes in 1 inch then your rear shaft is out 180.

Turn the shaft until it lines up with the timing marks and the screw driver goes in more than 3 inches without touching.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Take the timing belt off. Put the oil pump/rear b shaft gear indicator to 12 noon and let go. If it falls to 10 then its in phase if it falls to 3 its out and spin it around once and try again until it falls to 10.

That method is easier than getting under the car with a screw driver.

 

[shane90gsx]

Take the timing belt off. Put the oil pump/rear b shaft gear indicator to 12 noon and let go. If it falls to 10 then its in phase if it falls to 3 its out and spin it around once and try again until it falls to 10.

That method is easier than getting under the car with a screw driver.

What he said... Or you can just remove the balance shaft all together, and if your balance shaft bearing is out, then it wouldn't matter!

 

[lilblkshp]

thanks guys. pulled front case and the rear balance shaft bearing .was in the pan. knocked new one in and lined everything up again and now i have a hard whirring sound that gets worse when i give it gas. had a hair of play with the balance shaft in the new bearing.????????

 

[97gst_spyder]

I'd delete them then if you have that issue now.

 

[ed1380]

it would be alot simpler to eliminate the balance shafts. just put a stubby shaft in the rear, and dont put on the belt in the front. no bearings or whirring noises to worry about.

 

[lilblkshp]

put new rear bearing in and got to the point you mentioned. put it at 12 and it stays there, doesnt fall either way. bolt to tight?

where would i get the stubby? really dont want to go thru the hassle of dropping motor or pulling it to get front one out. its a customers daily driver

 

[bradselph]

why not do it like the service manual says and remove the inspection plug in the rear of the block

 

[lilblkshp]

i did that twice and it still whirs, can it be out of balance since it shot the bearing when the front belt went

 

[bradselph]

make sure you have your BS belt tensioner pully on the right way and not upsidedown or backwards

i did this and it made a whirry sound

 

[ed1380]

put new rear bearing in and got to the point you mentioned. put it at 12 and it stays there, doesnt fall either way. bolt to tight?

where would i get the stubby? really dont want to go thru the hassle of dropping motor or pulling it to get front one out. its a customers daily driver

dont take the front shaft out. just take the belt off and leave the shaft there.

 

[lilblkshp]

where would i get the stubby? how do you know if the bs tensioner pulley is on right? sorry for all the questions.

 

[bradselph]

on the tensioner bearing for the BS belt there is a lip of some sorts on one side of the roller make sure its on the outside and not the inside the BS belt will rub this if its on the inside and make the whirring noise

 

[97gst_spyder]

Now that I think about it, after re-installing the b-belt mine makes the whirry noise when cold.

 

[lilblkshp]

this one does it all the time, with the stethoscope against the block at the rear bs i can clearly hear it. i have the tensioner right so i guess when it threw the bearing it either damaged the bs or the block. the new bearing didnt go in easy but i think im gonna just do an elimination. its a customers car and they dont have much money, just trying to help her out. thanks everyone for your expertise.

 

[lilblkshp]

i just want to formally say thank you to all of those who weighed in on my problem with suggestions. they all helped. special thanks to ed1380, i did exactly what you said and with my fabrication background it was so easy. i wish i would of knew about that a week ago and would have saved alot of headache. thank you all very much

 

[lilblkshp]

Thanks again. Now after car gets warmed up oil light comes on. No leaks, full of oil. Got oil pressure but don't know the specs? Anyone know that? Thanks again

 

[97gst_spyder]

The oil light comes on at 5-7psi IIRC. The car with b-shafts at idle should be at 12-17psi.

I believe that you have to install a bolt in the 'stub' shaft to block the oil flow through it. Did you do that?

 

[ed1380]

use an oil pressure tester to confirm pressure. too much clearance on main bearings will cause lower oil pressure. once warmed up oil is too thin. either add lucas or use diesel oil. I personally run diesel oil all the time.

did you turn around the front balance bearings?

 

[lilblkshp]

Put the bolt in the front stub, yes with lock tight. No I thought you said just cut belt from front shaft and leave it in?

 

[97gst_spyder]

For the front yes, for the rear the oil goes through the shaft to lube the bearing.

 

[lilblkshp]

Ok so I cut it and put a bolt in. Think I got a bad oil switch, at 1000 rpm I got 22 psi?????

And now its at an idle with 16

What psi without bs'

Its all the way warmed up at 11 psi, I give it gas and the pressure rises

 

[97gst_spyder]

Then the $10 dollar switch is inop.