98 GSX running rich issue

[Yiddie]

Took my exhaust side off my evo16g turbo to get the threads redone, put it back together. noticed I was running rich so I did a boost leak test, found out my throttle body and the part underneath it was leaking pretty bad. Replaced the gaskets. the part was still leaking so I ended up getting a fiav bypass plate. I also did take the tps off without thinking on where it was adjusted properly. At idle and cruise I should be reading in the 14's and under boost around 11-12s on my wideband. When I start it up now it'll fluctuate a little and then idle steady, but it'll be rich and cruising rich. i'll adjust the tps while the car is running till it'll start reading 13-14 on my wideband but after driving for a little bit it'll go back to reading rich again...

my ecu was flashed, tuned on e85 a year ago.

Any suggestions

 

[Airsign89]

You should update your mod list. e85 burns quite a bit more fuel than gasoline and calibrating your WB to e85 if its setup for gasoline is something to checkout. How do logs of STFT and LTFT look?

 

[NHerron]

Adjust your TPS properly using this link, for one
RREs Eclipse 2G Turbo 1G Throttle Body Swap
Scroll to the bottom

Welcome to the site

 

[Yiddie]

Adjust your TPS properly using this link, for one
RREs Eclipse 2G Turbo 1G Throttle Body Swap
Scroll to the bottom

Welcome to the site

Well I talked to my tuner he said my tps should be at 5% in idle? I'm gonna hook up a scan tool today and adjust it. Which I've done this before already and at 5% it was idling high and still rich but that was before the fiav bypass plate, so we'll see if it's different this time, Maybe adjust the BISS also?

My mod list: 950cc inj. 255 walbro, evo16g, fmic, arp headstuds, 3" turboback exhaust, crushed 1g bov recirc. mbc,

You should update your mod list. e85 burns quite a bit more fuel than gasoline and calibrating your WB to e85 if its setup for gasoline is something to checkout. How do logs of STFT and LTFT look?

When I had it hooked up to a scan tool few days ago my STFT and LTFT seemed fine, But i'll check it again

 

[NHerron]

That's your call on proper vs 5% set, I couldn't tell you why he recommends to set it at 5%.

Not a good idea to adjust the BISS unless you can do it properly via the DSMlink way. If you do, at least count the turns so if you have problems you can set it back to where it was.

Here is how to set it with DSMlink, steve knows a lot about it
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/321158-biss-adjustment-iac-position.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/308086-dsmlink-iscposition-q.html

*Got mixed up, I don't know if you have link or not. If no, it's really not a good idea to touch the BISS unless you do it properly. This explains briefly how setting the BISS works in relation to ISC movement
http://vfaq.com/mods/BISS-2G.html

 

[Yiddie]

I'm just ####ing pissed..

I adjusted the biss a little bit... and even the tps at 5% still running rich..

I also did a boost leak test again and its just pissing out air from the tb elbow, underneath side, whats the point of a fiav bypass plate? since that obviously didn't help my situation.. So ####ing pissed

I've changed gaskets.. tried sealant.. still leaking from there. I also had the tb elbow belt sanded. sooo I dunno if I should just go out n get another tb or what.. I just want this fixed!

And no dsmlink, just ecuflashed.. I'm hoping to get a tantrix cable soon.

Oh and when I was doing the boost leak test.. I could hear something bubbling/dripping from inside the engine I think, sounded like it was coming from underneath somewhere, but you could hear it until there was no more pressure in the system. ?????? First time i've ever heard something like this while doing a blt. Not leaking from under the car either.

 

[Hiboost2]

Found this post on DSMTalk that may apply to hearing bubbling liquid noises inside the engine when doing a pressure test:

First off, eliminate the possibility it being the turbo by doing the pressure test after the turbo - test at the lower intercooler pipe.

Now, air will escape past the piston rings, whether it's a brand new car, high mileage car, or somewhere in between. When doing a pressure test, at least one valve will probably be open, letting compressed air into the cylinder. The air you're hearing inside of the engine during a pressure test could very well be just air leaking past the rings.

Just do a leak test after the turbo, and listen for any external leaks (leaks between the pressure tester and the intake manifold). If you're worried about the air in the engine, do a compression test, then a leakdown test.

Just so you guys know, I was wondering the same thing for the longest time. When I did the pressure test I could build pressure just fine. The problem was that I could hear the dripping, and hear air coming out of the engine when I took the oil cap off. So I took the valve cover off, pressure tested the intake, and took a piece of vacuum line to one ear, and probed around the valves with the other end, listening for leaks. It turns out the only place the air was coming from was down below. So it's just the rings. Normal.

 

[H@xtGSX]

The seal on the compressor side of the turbo isn't air tight when it isn't being oiled. The bubbling you heard is likely air going past this seal and down the oil return line into the pan. Mine does the same thing if I test with the tester connected to the inlet of the compressor housing. As for the throttle and elbow leak, the seals on the throttle plate shaft suck ass and they are a pain to change and get to function correctly. I changed mine, and the first time I used it afterwards it stuck open. Not good. I really had to work the plate by hand for a while until the seals were seated right... And even then, those thing still leak a little. The elbow should not be an issue unless it is cracked. Just get a can of that 1 Minute Gasket stuff and coat the entire flange surface with a thin coating of it, wait about 30 seconds, then put it back on and tighten it down. It shouldn't leak. The only other thing I can think of is that maybe you have an EGR block off plate that is loose.

 

[Yiddie]

thanks for the info guys!!

I ordered a rebuilt throttle body from throttlebodys.com should be here tomorrow.

I'm gonna take off the exhaust side of the turbo again n make sure I lined it up right with the pins, also looking for a 2g exhaust manifold I noticed mine has a little crack.

Hoping all this will fix my rich issue.

 

[H@xtGSX]

Little cracks can sometimes be welded shut again. They drill small holes at each end of the crack, heat the whole casting up with a cutting torch, then I personally just weld it shut with a gas torch and a little filler rod making sure to puddle the steel real deep... Most people will arc weld it shut. I have fixed 2 manifolds like this with good results.

 

[jtmcinder]

You should update your mod list. e85 burns quite a bit more fuel than gasoline and calibrating your WB to e85 if its setup for gasoline is something to checkout.

No "calibrating" is needed. If the wideband is set up to give a read-out for gas, then it will read 14.7 at stoich for gas or E85. Yes, with E85 it ought to be saying 9.8, but that's not a calibration issue. It's just that most widebands are set up to multiply lambda by 14.7 on the assumption that you are running gas. Lambda is lambda, regardless of fuel.

 

[re-rx7]

Post back what you find.

 

[Yiddie]

I'm running a prosport wideband gauge, and we had it tuned to where it should read 14s I usually see 14.2-14.4 in idle/cruise which is optimal and when under boost read in the 11s-12s range.

I'll let you guys know after I get couple new parts installed and recheck the position of the exhaust side of the turbo,make sure it lines up with the pins.

I also have a tactrix cable and evoscan. First time using it tho, So I'm a beginner.

 

[jtmcinder]

...I usually see 14.2-14.4 in idle/cruise which is optimal...

Who toldeth thou that something under 14.7 at idle/cruise is optimal?

 

[NHerron]

That's what I wanted to say yesterday but I'm no expert tuner... Still learning

I didn't even know you could get the ECU (LTFT?) that far outta whack to read 14.2-14.4 since it uses front 02 to make sure it swings around 14.7:1

I'll keep my cruising fuel milage

 

[Yiddie]

I'll take a pic of my LTFT graph on ecuflash and post it.

 

[jtmcinder]

I'm not doubting that your car cycles around something lower than 14.7. I'm asking why you think that this is a good thing.

 

[Yiddie]

Solve some of the confusion