Spyder 98 4G63T idle adjustment.

[racefourfun]

I need to bump up my idle a little bit and I was told I may need a ECMLink to do that. Is that true? I don’t have access to one. If that isn’t true, can someone please tell me where the adjustment screw would be if there is such a thing on this engine.
Thanks

 

[DSMPT]

Generally just enough to see a small bit of light last it like a HALO and thats all thats needed.

That's exactly what I showed in the link.

small amounts so wont be enough to sustain idle.

Small or a lot, the amount that pass through where the plate slightly open is enough to change/affect the idle engine speed. Even the FSM mentions that one of the first thing you should try after setting everything properly but the engine often stalls or the engine speed too low is try to clean the dirt/carbon/oil deposit in between the plate and throttle body. If that space doesn't affect anything or if that space is not that important, they didn't mention it, neither didn't paint the screw and nut to mark the factory position if it was only to stop the throttle plate not to be stuck.
And in case if you didn't get why I mentioned about the lightweight flywheel, or if it made you misunderstood something, then that's my bad, I should have explained more. It was just an example that I wanted to tell you the air come into the engine through the plate or bypass would behave differently when decelerating.
I was talking about is kinda old cheating technic that I was taught to avoid the engine stall for when you have a lightweight flywheel or non-recirculated BOV with MAF (like the famous things to cause engine stall whatever the reason) but don't have standalone or some device that can adjust the air flow signal, fuel, ignition timing when decelerating, like HKS EIDS or so.
Both, physically opening the throttle plate or bypassing more by BISS let the air into the engine and has the same effect with idle engine speed, but it would behave differently when decelerating. If you have the throttle physically open a bit more and adjust the BISS, it would make the engine speed dropped slower (or softer, I don't know what the right word is) than adjusting only the BISS. And that can be used to avoid the engine stall in some cases and actually work better than HKS EIDS in my case. I tried this many times and yes that was true. The difference is small, but that small difference would give me a little more time to recover the engine speed instead of stalling at stops. I am telling you this not by reading in somewhere, this is from my own experience.

Never needed more that

If you need to open more on purpose is a special case.
Again, usually you don't need to adjust or reset if it has never been changed from the factory position.


Sometimes I feel the conversation is not on the same page, kind of like miscommunication. Most likely because of my English make people misunderstood or I misread what people write.
But just in case, I would like to confirm that here in this forum, we use SAS or stop screw for the fixed SAS, and BISS for the SAS (Speed Adjusting Screw), correct?
Sometimes the words don't match and indicate totally different things from what I learned in Japanese. Actually in Japan we use "SAS" for "BISS".
I care the word differences much to prevent miscommunication and try to use the common words in the forum, but in case if I am using wrong words or words that are hard to understand, please let me know.

 

[curt-s]

I think I got what you were saying. Cracking the plate open and propping it open with the stop or the IPS, beyond just off that sticking fully closed position, basically sets a coarse base idle adjustment while the biss is the fine adjustment applied over top.

 

[DSMPT]

I think I got what you were saying. Cracking the plate open and propping it open with the stop or the IPS, beyond just off that sticking fully closed position, basically sets a coarse base idle adjustment while the biss is the fine adjustment applied over top.

Yes, that's it Besides preventing sticking, that's why you would still need to have the 1g style IPS (or some alternative bolt or so) on 1g throttle body to set the idle properly even if you don't need the IPS switch function anymore.
This is one of reasons why I personally prefer the early evo throttle body over the 1g non turbo throttle body especially in 2g, even they look identical. The early evo throttle body comes with the 2g style fixed SAS instead of the 1g style IPS.

 

[curt-s]

Well, I've found another use for my bore scope then.. feed it through the bov hole so I can see the plate and adjust as called for. That way i don't waste gaskets removing the elbow.