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2G 97 GS-T barely stays on, weak idle after battery replacement

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Junzu

Proven Member
145
19
Aug 21, 2021
California
Sorry for repeat posts was recommended I start new thread. Before I replaced old battery, car had no power at all and wouldn't turn on. KEY NOTE: Day before, drove, shut engine off and immediately turned key again. No power at all. Car started very weakly 5 hours later. Only replaced bad starter wire 2 days ago.
Today, replaced battery since starter and alternator were good. Got power and car turns on but barely stays running. Doesn't need gas at idle (only needed when jumping old battery) but barely stays on, dies easily. As of later today is able to idle without dying although weakly at slightly below 1rpm. Avg idle is around 1? Not sure but reg idle not weak. Thinking it could be TPS which is loose

Suggestions were that it could be o2 sensors, even fuel pump, although may be smaller problem. Not sure how to diagnose between so many issues it could be, thought it could just be TPS.

NO Check engine. Thought it was related to battery at first because of battery placement... previous owner did not tie down battery w/ bracket and wires a little messy.

When I unplug TPS car stays running
 
It sounds like you have multiple issues or one that’s causing more than one issue. One for certain and the one you should start with is the electrical system. I’d start with a voltage drop test. You want to test and verify all power and ground connections are good and clean them. When I say good, I mean check with a multimeter both on cable end and the post it’s connected to.

The car doesn’t look hacked up so that’s a huge plus.


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Tested how? If you checked voltage at the alternator I would check wiring all the way back to the battery and pull that bolted in fuse and check it. NOT a visual inspection. Check this with a meter. I would check you ground with a meter also. The battery is also not secured.
I did check with meter

It sounds like you have multiple issues or one that’s causing more than one issue. One for certain and the one you should start with is the electrical system. I’d start with a voltage drop test. You want to test and verify all power and ground connections are good and clean them. When I say good, I mean check with a multimeter both on cable end and the post it’s connected to.

The car doesn’t look hacked up so that’s a huge plus.


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Ok great will do. What is hacked up?
 
Yes I know just wasn sure what hacked up is I will Google it
This is an exaggerated hacked bay

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Yeah I would also start with battery connections. Just to be sure, I would open all of the connections to the terminals and see what's going on under that electrical tape. The positive one looks like it might have some broken wires for sure. I would check all of these points and redo the connections so that they are fresh and new. +1 on the ground, it might look fine but opening it up and cleaning/reattaching it won't hurt.

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Checked connections and seems fine, not able to borrow friend's voltmeter as of yesterday and today ... Car had power and door chime today but as soon as I turn key boom no power. No clicking sound, just dead. Could this be a power drain in addition to other problem?
 
This will be my last update until issue is resolved as I don't want to annoy but today I am stumped. Multimeter is now reading battery at 50.v I heard that can be due to low battery too. Not sure if mine is just cheap. One I used previously had accurate readings
 
there is no way that a 12v battery can hold a 50v charge,
you should get 12.5-12.7v or so on a fully charged battery.
 
Last edited:
Sorry for repeat posts was recommended I start new thread. Before I replaced old battery, car had no power at all and wouldn't turn on. KEY NOTE: Day before, drove, shut engine off and immediately turned key again. No power at all. Car started very weakly 5 hours later. Only replaced bad starter wire 2 days ago.
Today, replaced battery since starter and alternator were good. Got power and car turns on but barely stays running. Doesn't need gas at idle (only needed when jumping old battery) but barely stays on, dies easily. As of later today is able to idle without dying although weakly at slightly below 1rpm. Avg idle is around 1? Not sure but reg idle not weak. Thinking it could be TPS which is loose

Suggestions were that it could be o2 sensors, even fuel pump, although may be smaller problem. Not sure how to diagnose between so many issues it could be, thought it could just be TPS.

NO Check engine. Thought it was related to battery at first because of battery placement... previous owner did not tie down battery w/ bracket and wires a little messy.

When I unplug TPS car stays running

So I asked you befor on your other thread that if you unplug the tps does the car stay running and you said no. Now you say it stays running if you unplug it. If it stays running unplugged that means you need a new tps. Also idle should be around 750

Also sounds like you have something draining the battery. Do a parasitic drain test.

Here is a how to
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So I asked you befor on your other thread that if you unplug the tps does the car stay running and you said no. Now you say it stays running if you unplug it. If it stays running unplugged that means you need a new tps.

Also sounds like you have something draining the battery. Do a parasitic drain test.
On my old thread I said scratch that because it does stay running. And yes I will have to I was thinking the same thing, also gonna unbolt the 100 fuse and replace if needed

Here is a how to
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Thank you!!
 
if it was reading accurately and the reading was .50v (half a volt) the battery would be trash. If you discharge them that much, it will never recover
 
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