2G 97 GS-T barely stays on, weak idle after battery replacement

[Junzu]

Sorry for repeat posts was recommended I start new thread. Before I replaced old battery, car had no power at all and wouldn't turn on. KEY NOTE: Day before, drove, shut engine off and immediately turned key again. No power at all. Car started very weakly 5 hours later. Only replaced bad starter wire 2 days ago.
Today, replaced battery since starter and alternator were good. Got power and car turns on but barely stays running. Doesn't need gas at idle (only needed when jumping old battery) but barely stays on, dies easily. As of later today is able to idle without dying although weakly at slightly below 1rpm. Avg idle is around 1? Not sure but reg idle not weak. Thinking it could be TPS which is loose

Suggestions were that it could be o2 sensors, even fuel pump, although may be smaller problem. Not sure how to diagnose between so many issues it could be, thought it could just be TPS.

NO Check engine. Thought it was related to battery at first because of battery placement... previous owner did not tie down battery w/ bracket and wires a little messy.

When I unplug TPS car stays running

 

[pauleyman]

Will do. Never dealt with these box type fuses though... only the typical thin spade ones. Newb question but any idea how to pop that clear cover open for the ign fuse? About to test

You don't. You unbolt it and test it from the connections. You don't need to check it if you are getting a better reading with car on.

 

[Hickory-NC-2Ggsx]

You'll most likely break the clear part. Best to just remove it for the fuse box.

 

[Junzu]

You don't. You unbolt it and test it from the connections. You don't need to check it if you are getting a better reading with car on.

If I get a good batt reading unnecessary to test fuse? When I use multimeter now it keeps changing all over the place, and averages 50.0 mv

Runs just as normal with TPS unplugged but on start idle drops under 500 and seems like it'll stall but doesn't. Idle around 500-700

 

[pauleyman]

sounds like you need a new meter.
Was the reading you got car on or off? If you get 14.xx volts with car on and 12.xx with car off the alternator and that fuse are working. If voltage stays same with car on and off you need to diagnose that circuit including that fuse.

 

[Junzu]

sounds like you need a new meter.
Was the reading you got car on or off? If you get 14.xx volts with car on and 12.xx with car off the alternator and that fuse are working. If voltage stays same with car on and off you need to diagnose that circuit including that fuse.

Can't accurately measure due to the multimeter jumping all over with car on and off. The last reading I got was 12.7 v with car off... use DC right?

 

[pauleyman]

kinda hard to know what to do here. cheap meter at wal mart is under 10$. Under 30 you can get a simple klein at home depot.

 

[Junzu]

kinda hard to know what to do here. cheap meter at wal mart is under 10$. Under 30 you can get a simple klein at home depot.

I'm just gonna have to get a new one... one last thing... is it not standard that the DC setting is reading with mv? A Google search shows it should read just Volts with DC

 

[pauleyman]

I have no idea what kind of meter you have. there are auto ranging, manual ranging. Not possible to answer your questions without you showing us what you have.

 

[Junzu]

I have no idea what kind of meter you have. there are auto ranging, manual ranging. Not possible to answer your questions without you showing us what you have.

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Auto ranging

 

[pauleyman]

that's auto ranging. It will read whateve range it needs to wheter it is millivolts or full volts.
If it's all over the place I would just get a better meter.