92 laser won't start

[loosegoose52]

I have a 92 AWD Laser. I just got it on the road a few days ago. It always started fine but had a bad clutch. My dad and I drove it the and realized it had a major boost leak. We used soapy water to find that the poorly made EGR bock off plate was leaking. We fixed it and drove it on some short test drives. The next morning it wouldn't start. Later that day it started and we drove it to get tags. Now the car won't start at all. It rolls over fine and it has spark and fuel. It is all stock except for a boost gauge and a tempature gauge(stock one wouldn't work) Any help would great. Thanks

 

[vzeoh6om]

look and double check if theres still a leak at the egr plate.... sounds to me like you might have a lot of un metered air going into the engine and not enough fuel to compensate... try spraying some starter fluid in that area and see if theres a difference

 

[loosegoose52]

We ran another BLT. A small leak at the BIS screw was it. CAS maybe? The only thing that is weird is that it always started fine before we fixed the leak at the EGR.

 

[vzeoh6om]

well maybe cas but did you check to see if your timing is dead on?...ok and also like you said you already have the basics.. spark and fuel...but do you mean fuel at the rail or that your getting pulses at the injectors? check for this if havent already...so then now all you need is air/compression.. have you tried to start it with the throtle opened just a little as in to mimic the isc to make sure that a bit of air is entering??? if still nothing after these suggestions then i would suggest a compression test..

sorry if it seems like im all over the place with my suggestion but im trying to help out with the little info that i got...

 

[steve]

Pulls your plugs and see it they are fouled. If they are wet check your Engine Coolant Temp sensor, the two wire one in the bottom of your Thermostat housing. Also make sure that your ECU is powering up by watching the Check engine light when you first turn the ignition on. It should tunr on for five seconds or so and then turn off. On turbo cars the factory boost gauge should move to zero and stay there until you start cranking.

Does your tach move while cranking?

 

[loosegoose52]

I have new plugs and wires. I pulled one (left it attached to the boot) and tried to start it just to see if I was getting spark. I have fuel at the rail. I did not check the injector pluses. The CEL comes on and the factory boost gauge goes to zero when I try to start it. I forgot to check the tach, I will do that tonight. I tried to start it with the thottle open a bit and still have nothing. I will also check the engine coolant temp sensor. I did put in an aftermarket temp gauge I know it does somthing different than coolant temp sensor but I may have accidently unpluged it.

 

[vzeoh6om]

not tryna Jack the thread or prove anyone wrong, just wondering something..while the subject is up... if ## spark plug is wet/foul what does that has to do with the ect?? n also Im not sure but if the ect is disconected wouldnt the car still start but the ecu jus think that the coolant is like -40 degrees???

 

[Talon2139]

for 1g's when the coolant temp sensor is unplugged the ecu thinks the engine is at normal operating temperature (Haynes Manual). So it actually puts in less fuel, i had this problem, fixed the cts and voila the car started right up.

 

[steve]

just wondering something, while the subject is up. if your spark plug is wet/foul what does that has to do with the ect?
I'm not sure but if the ect is discondected wouldn't the car still start but the ecu just think that the coolant is like -40 degrees???

for 1g's when the coolant temp sensor is unplugged the ecu thinks the engine is at normal operating temperature (Haynes Manual). So it actually puts in less fuel, i had this problem, fixed the cts and voila the car started right up.

Unplugged or disconnected the ECU thinks it's -40F and at that temp fuel doesn't vaporize very well. In order to try and get enough fuel atomized it injects a lot more than is needed and floods the engine causing wet fouled plugs.

There are many examples here posted of broken ECT wires causing the engine to not start. Fix the connector and it fires right up.

 

[Talon2139]

Unplugged or disconnected the ECU thinks it's -40F and at that temp fuel doesn't vaporize very well. In order to try and get enough fuel atomized it injects a lot more than is needed and floods the engine causing wet fouled plugs.

There are many examples here posted of broken ECT wires causing the engine to not start. Fix the connector and it fires right up.

Then why did my car start up fine when it was warmed up?

 

[loosegoose52]

I worked on my car a bunch on Saturday. I got it to strat with an extreme amount of cranking. My coolant temp sensor wasn't even hooked up. That spot on the T-stat housing was open to nothing until I put the aftermarket temp sensor in there. I found it in a box of stuff I got with my car. I went to autozone and got a new one. The plug to the sensor had been cut off really short so I had to take it apart and soder in new wires. I cant remember which one goes where on the harness. Can anyone take a picture of theirs or give me an idea of which wire goes where?

 

[steve]

As long as you have the right wires for the ECT sensor which one to which pin doesn't matter.

 

[DSM1G90]

Then why did my car start up fine when it was warmed up?

Motor's hot enough to help vaporize that extra fuel a lot quicker.

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Interesting on this thread, for I'm basically facing the same problem ... and odd, all of this happened right after an oil change that I did.

Thing will not start until after a good few minutes of cranking when cold.

when I finally get it fired up, I knew right off that I was flooded due to the blue cloud of exhaust that would come out of the pipe and the strong odor of too much fuel in the cylinders.

Then, on one day, it was longer to get the thing started. Enough! I pulled plugs thinking that they were soaked with fuel. "Nope!" dry as a stick. No flooding.

"Iffy fuel pump? " I take a jumper wire, connect one end in the FP test socket and touched the positive post of the battery along with squeezing the fuel return hose connected at the end of the regulator. Hose compresses immediatlely when I touch the battery. FP good (I think and hope) on that part.

Finally, my CEL light came on after a couple of runs. Enough. Get the analog VOM meter out to do the code test, hook up the leads to the points on the dianostic socket, turn on the key and count the pulses. Two long and one short ... "Dang! Pointing to the ECT sensor."

To make sure, I hooked up my digital VOM and was getting crazy ohm readings and when hot, zero ohm readings.

Went to NAPA to get another sensor, but still the thing won't fire up after install until I do a unique thing: I have no BISS screw, but I have a plug in its place. I take out the plug, shoot a blast of starter fluid in there, put the plug back on, the thing fires up immediately on the touch of they key and sits at a very smooth 750rpm afterwards ...

...but no high 1700 rpms when cold - like starting a cold car without a choke.

I cleared out the code in the ECU with the disconnection of the battery, but the CEL light still comes on still pointing to the ECT. I did check the new ECT and it's giving me great VOM readings. I went under the dash to check ECU (which was replaced last year) connections which are all good.

Lost at words and ideas where to search on this for awhile.....any ideas, tips recommendations, et.al. ?

thx-DSM

 

[loosegoose52]

I got the new sensor in and wired up. It is still hard to start but it does start. I now have another problem. I pulled the banjo bolt that feeds oil to the turbo becuase it was missing a crush washer and was leaking a bit, it broke off in the head! How do I get it out with out sending metal shavings into my oil?