'92 GSX The 'Baby Beast' - 2.3l HX40 Wire tucked Auto

[yhype]

Is the wiper motor all wired up in those pics? If so nice job on hiding the harness and where did you do it? Thanks

 

[TSimage]

Is the wiper motor all wired up in those pics? If so nice job on hiding the harness and where did you do it? Thanks

I'm going to have a bunch of updates here shortly on the new harness I rebuilt but the plug for the wiper comes from behind the hole the motor mounts in. So basically it just tucked behind itself.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Looks good man hope to see more soon.

 

[hediki12]

sick build !!! i realy hope mines tunes out half as clean as yours. i envy that v3 mani

 

[TSimage]

Looks good man hope to see more soon.

sick build !!! i realy hope mines tunes out half as clean as yours. i envy that v3 mani

Thanks for the love guys and yeah I love that manifold. I was the first one with one other than the original guys that did the beta. I LOVE the way it looks in black, can't say I am a fan of it in its raw form.

On a side note, I ordered a couple hundred dollars worth of fittings and such from Summit Racing yesterday at 1:20PM and I kid you not, at 1:20PM today FedEx rolled up and had my package (all but 4 items being delivered from either of their other 2 facilities back East/South)

As you can see I stocked back up on black braided -4an line since all of my vacuum lines are or eventually will be black braided lines. On top of that I am switching my fuel line setup around so that the filter will come off of the fuel rail so that I can eliminating mounting anything to my fire wall (There is NOTHING additionally mounted to the fire wall besides the few things that have to be there because the run into the interior.

Also, to eliminate the need for me to have a breather inside of the engine bay I will be running dual -10an bulk heads through the fire wall to an interior mounted catch which will have a filter mounted right bellow the wiper in the engine bay where you see the plug. (In short terms, there will be a filter mounted there for the breather to ad somethin a little different and spice it up a bit.)

The other item is obviously a shifter handle for my ratcheting shifter. My black Talon had this same T handle. My current one has the ugly as sin hammer handle that HAS TO GO! Not only does it look like a pregnant fish but its awkward for those who like to slap gears. The T Hanfle is nice and flat so that I can easily slap the handle like I do on my muscle cars to bump gears.

So now I just have to wait a little longer to get the other half of my fittings then I gotta wait an entire WEEK to get my wiring supplies since they ruined my order which is ridiculous and pushes my plans back an entire week! I got until Jully 22nd to iron out all the problems on it and I'd like to have a few weekends worth of tuning in to see just how much I can squeak out of this set up.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Also, to eliminate the need for me to have a breather inside of the engine bay I will be running dual -10an bulk heads through the fire wall to an interior mounted catch which will have a filter mounted right bellow the wiper in the engine bay where you see the plug. (In short terms, there will be a filter mounted there for the breather to ad somethin a little different and spice it up a bit.)

Great idea! That will be slick as hell! So fresh and so clean...

 

[TSimage]

Great idea! That will be slick as hell! So fresh and so clean...

I hope so.. Just some simple bulk heads to make it all go together...


Well as an update the show must go on and as I find more pics I shall post them up. Being that this was a 5spd car I needed to swap the rear pinion but considering it was a crappy 3 bolt rear to begin with I opted to swap the whole thing out with a low millage LSD auto rear.


All jacked up and ready to go. what a dirty dirty girl..

It looks a lot easier than it is, and don't get me wrong, its quite basic but I'm blessed with a cali vehicle with zero rust and I could only imagine how much of a pain this procedure would be for you guys back east.

Out with the old.

In with the new,,,

A little RL HD for peace of mind.

 

[TSimage]

So with that out of the way I guess I can show a basic pic of what the beginning of the breather set up is in the tucked bay:


Nice way to ruin a nicely shaved bay.. no turning back now...

Simple.

Sorry for the crappy late night pics but its to get the basic idea across... (The area where you see the round recessed area is where the filter for the breather will be mounted.) Still no new grommets. Next up we start getting into the wiring and showing how everything is ran as well as the nitrous system. Its getting there, slowly but surly all leading up to a hopeful debut July 22nd where I will attempt to blow it to pieces.

 

[TSimage]

More boring progress, all leading up to a hopeful tuning session next week and then the track on the 22nd.

Didn't have any pics of the trans all in cause that is pretty typical but one thing I was asked about was what I used for bolts and how I installed the Kiggly plate to make sure it wont come loose.


Naturally, if you are doing a MT to AT swap you'll have to change your starter plate. Just a little attention to detail since my block and trans are both black I painted the visual portions of the plate as well as all the edges before installation so that it will have a much cleaner look all buttoned up.

Nextt I clearanced the front seal since it interferes with the large bolt heads on the 12.9 grade allen bolts I am using to connect the flexplate to the TC (They are M10s 20mm cut down to about 16/17mm)


Here is how it normally looks-

And this is what you guys will need to take off if you are using Allen head or ARP bolts. (If you don't it will either bind up or eventually clearance itself . Neither sounds like a good idea to me.)-

Finished product.. (As you can see I took a little more out just to make the cut cleaner.)

Now when you are mounting this plate or even if you are mounting 2 stockers like I normally did in the past I always goop the hell out of all the surfaces with the red locktite and have never had an issue with anything backing out. (I believe Kiggly himself recommends this as well)


On the plate surface that mounts to the crank-

The spacer surface that backs up to the flywheel-

And then drench the bolts-

You'll notice I am using cut down ARP bolts, the reason for this is because the heads on some of the stock flywheel bolts are too wide, (They have to be clearanced to fit with the pilot bushing in the middle) As you know the heads also have a tendency to strip on you eventually, the stronger 12pt ARP bolts have neither of these issues. Some of you trust torquing the stockers over 100 ft-lbs, I don't. I am sure in most cases it will hold but there is a huge chance that they will be stretched, with these ARPs I have no issues taking these bolts all the way to 150 ft-lbs. (possibly) the tightest mating surface on the entire car ) 6 bolts over such a small surface all torqued to 150 and everything drenched in red locktite should do the trick. One thing to note too is I used the Gel. I have had great results with it in the past and it makes jobs like this a lot easier. The liquid form had a penetration on the threads I prefer but on surfaces there is no comparison.


That should hold it-

On the next few updates I will be dealing with the ratching shifter and everyone's favorite topic, wiring..

 

[Spyder FX]

Looks awesome. I love how clean this build is.

 

[TSimage]

Looks awesome. I love how clean this build is.

That's the ultimate goal. So far things are falling into place to accomplish this.


Now one minor update I promised through PMs and sent to a member I figure would be awesome to post here because like a few other things I posted up with the trans rebuild this step has NEVER been posted with pics for reference yet I have seen the question answered many times. When you are diving into the auto trans and have plans to remove the center diff and weld it you will notice there is a gear in the way of removing the VC so I will get into that later. It is quite simple but is always great to put a picture to it.


To begin with, most of you will be in there to remove and weld up the center diff. There are many ways to do it, some will simply weld the 2 spider gears since it requires the least amount of precision and offers a buffer (the gears will break and the diff will be fine without a catastrophic failure (usually) but its also the weaker of the 2 and not really worth it IMO.


6 bolts to pull off the cover, then the outer gear that mates up with the idle gear simply pulls out.

To pull the diff you can either put a 14mm M10 bolt in the center of it to use as a spot for a puller or to grab it or simply wrap the outer gear with a rag or leather glove and a quick tug using the wrench of your choice will yank it right out.

Take a 14mm socket and an impact and open her up and remove the 2 spider gears and the shims/washers and discard them (or sell them if ya want to)-

All you need are the 2 large beveled gears and their shims (some feel you don't need the shims but if you want the intermediate shaft to completely engage the inner clip on the outer most gear than you'll at least need 1 of them)

(shims are underneath the gears in this pic)


Now reinstall and make sure they are flush with the bottom. Unlike the manual center diffs there is no play in these gears and when you push them into place they stay.

Weld it up, put it back together and lets go get that VC out of there.

Now when you do this you'll notice a gear obstructing any further, This is the idle gear and it is rather simple to remove but requires you remove its own side plate cover which is around 6-8 10mm bolts and you will also need to remove the Endclutch cover plate 5-6 10mm bolts to get to this 17mm bolt bellow.

(Notice the tab that is sticking up. This tab is normally positioned in the notch just to the left of the Endclutch. I opted to remove the clutch to give me the space to pry the tab up then sneak a 17mm socket over the head as much as you can and break it loose)

The different colored metal represents the outer collar of the shaft the idle gear rides on, remove this SLOWLY and as you do use your other hand to make sure nothing rolls out of the open gear cover.

Its only 4 pieces... The locking spacer that has a tab that locates the shim, the inner and outer beveled roller bearings and the gear itself which is double beveled on the inside to house both.

And that's it... Time to attack that VC.

*At this point you'll notice the intermediate shaft was removed long ago. Its nice to have it out of the way*

The first thing you will notice once you pull the bearing seat for the center diff. (either thread in some long bolts or threaded rods and pull it straight out OR reach in there with a hooked instrument and use the 3 openings in it to tug a few times alternating sides and it will slide right up. *Yes you will need to remove the 8/10mm bolt holding it in place some of the times, I didn't the first time around but did the second*)

(Note there is a spacer shim behind this that you will still need to reinstall once the VC is out.)

Reach in with some plyers and pull the VC out, be careful because this thing is HEAVY for what it is. You WILL be surprised...

And for all those who like me figured at first, "Eh, I'll pull the VC if I have time, no big deal.. How much can it improve response?" Well here is your answer-

OVER FIVE LBS REMOVED FROM THE INPUTSHAFT!

This thing weighs almost as much as the entire center diff on its own.


Now make sure she is clean and put her all back together.

One thing to notice is that this was all done with the transmission installed in the car. Tinkering with this auto is truly amazing. It has its ups and downs but some of the access points for this transmission is brilliant and everything about it makes it a dream to work on especially compared to the manual. Other than a full rebuild, the pump or front clutch the rest of the upgrades can be done after the fact that the trans is installed it is actually easier to upgrade a few items knowing how easy it is to get to.

Props to Mitsubishi's engineering department, they actually did something right.

 

[slow91]

So with that out of the way I guess I can show a basic pic of what the beginning of the breather set up is in the tucked bay:


Nice way to ruin a nicely shaved bay.. no turning back now...

Simple.

Sorry for the crappy late night pics but its to get the basic idea across... (The area where you see the round recessed area is where the filter for the breather will be mounted.) Still no new grommets. Next up we start getting into the wiring and showing how everything is ran as well as the nitrous system. Its getting there, slowly but surly all leading up to a hopeful debut July 22nd where I will attempt to blow it to pieces.

not knocking you at all, but you seem to do pretty damn good work, but shouldve covered ## throttle body when u drilled, any little metal shavings will trash ## motor before u even do any pulls. best of luck!!!! hope this thing is a monster

 

[TSimage]

not knocking you at all, but you seem to do pretty damn good work, but shouldve covered ## throttle body when u drilled, any little metal shavings will trash ## motor before u even do any pulls. best of luck!!!! hope this thing is a monster

Lol, Thanks for the concern but all is well. The other end of TB is taped up and the TB is on simply to block the opening into the manifold and to let me run the wires. Its actually sitting right here on top of my computer desk as I type.

I already know the chances of me blowing this thing up are pretty great but I want it to go out in a blaze of glory so everything is still taped for the most part until show time.

On a side note, hope to have some wiring updates today, finally..

 

[TSimage]

**WIRING UPDATES**


Many people know of my wire tuck/ wire harness DIY I put together a while back that was the first known one for 1Gs but I never went too far into detail as to the entire process and since I am trying to give as much "inside" info as possible we will revisit what was written in that blog and expand on it.

__________

3 useful links-


Project Zero 1 (This site is the main site that gives you the lay out of the secondary plugs on the engine harness than other places like VFAQ totally ignore.) -

:: Project Zero G :: - Wiring Home


Project Zero 2 (If you look through the menu you will find the ECU harness pin out as well.) -

:: Project Zero G :: - Wiring Information


Mirage-Performance Tech (Page has a few broken links but is GOLDEN for identifying a few connectors here and there..) -

1Gb DSM 4G63 Turbo Wiring Harness Diagram

With that site you can identify every single plug and relay on the harness which at some point will come in handy just in case you get a little carried away.


A bonus site for you guys as well (Not one I used much but still might come in handy) This site shows the Engine harness pinout with the color coded wires off to the sides... Very useful for those less familiar with the wiring. -

http://www.dsmtalk.com/gallery/data/500/Drawing2_Model_1_.jpg

__________

Now with that information presented we can get into the fun stuff... I'll break this all down into parts starting with the next post...

 

[TSimage]

**Prep and Break down**


Apart from either a print out from the websites mentioned prior or a small laptop/ tablet to use for reference you will need the items bellow:


Supplies:

1) Masking tape - Used for temporary loom placement as well as labeling
2) Razor blades - Obvious
3) Industrial Scissors - Used for cutting tape and wire well as loom covers
4) Small wire nips (optional)
5) Note book (Or have a damn good sense of wiring and memory)
6) A box or trash bin to discard extra wire and any removed tape or loom (This is VERY important.. Keep things clean and it will help you organize things better)
7) A clean and good sized working area
9) Gloves - The old tape is sticky and some are unfortunate enough to have loops that are covered in dirt and or there foul substances over the past 2 decades or so


Just a few of the items-

Begin removing all of the old loom tape. Replace some of it with masking tape to hold it together and use this as a chance to check the condition of the wires and keep an eye out for cracks, breaks, fried wires etc.

Soon you'll have a nice big box full of useless plastic (nylon) wire loom and years of tape and dirt.

After this you can use the previously mentioned sites to study the harness pin-outs and determine what you will and wont need. The closer to a race car this is the more you can remove. The harness for my Raven build barely had a few wires left between the Engine and Fuse harnesses but with this car it is a PURE street car meaning it will retain the wipers etc.


After that you'll have a nice pile going on by now.

The final step to the Prep and Break down portion is naturally the break down of the harness entirely (By "cropping" the harness before this step it makes it a LOT easier to stay organized) First things first is to figure a separation/ cut point for your connectors. Once you figure this out label your wires on both ends, mark it with a number in 4 spots (L/R /F/B) and use your scissors to cut each in half.


Remove each main connector from the harness so that when you reroute everything it will be MUCH more simple.

Then you can follow that up by separating the rest of the harness and neatly rolling up and labeling your remaining connectors.

Now this will take us into our next are which will be "Mock-Up." During that phase the plugs will be installed on the motor as if you were putting it together then after everything is properly routed the harness will receive its final sizing, routing and of course outer sheathing to finish it off.


Keep your eyes open as well for a section dedicated to wiring specialty items such as Ignition boxes and injector boosters.

Its a lot of extra work for a car whos main purpose is performance but why just be another fast DSM when you can have fun putting together a super clean example you can be proud of. Its all came a long way but there is a lot more to go. To have the cleanest 1G engine bay it will take a lot out of ya but its well worth it when you pop the hood.

Regardless of that the rest of the car will soon follow so more to come.

 

[TSimage]

So the neighbor decided he was a champion welder and wanted to weld up my center diff for me. He has a bunch of 4wd off road vehicles that the had worked on so I assumed it was a good idea even though I could have done it myself..

After installing it and spinning it by hand a few times and noticing a slight wobble I pulled it apart..

Looked a LOT worse in person. *Sigh, back to the drawing board...

 

[bastarddsm]

If you worked on your car half as hard as you work on making it seem like your actually doing stuff, it would be done by now.

Quit half assing shit, and send a good cd core to someone who does dsm trans's.

 

[TSimage]

If you worked on your car half as hard as you work on making it seem like your actually doing stuff, it would be done by now.

Quit half assing shit, and send a good cd core to someone who does dsm trans's.

I didn't know I was on a time table? If I built this car how you built yours it woulda been done a long time ago but would still look like sh*t which I am trying to avoid . Its all about havin' fun with the process and doing it in a way that makes you proud to open the hood and look at it. Ironically the ultimate example of what NOT half assing and or doing the bare minimum looks like.

I'm in no rush. Neighbor does off roading and said he'd be able to weld it up and did. The CD actually spins freely and is no worse than a majority of the ones I have seen on peoples cars I have pulled apart but after I opened it up and looked at it I kind of chuckled and tossed it to the side. The diff works I just don't like the craftmanship of it, it literally reminds me of the welds on your manifold you built and in your own words, why half ass it if it can be done better?

I'm an engineer and fabricator myself, I coulda welded it up on my own and simply would have put a bit more time into putting a bit of pride into it. If I woulda just ran it I probably would have never known but like I said, I'm on no ones time table. Got a really cool Jeep build going on right now too so splitting what little time I have between the projects simply takes patience.

No worries tho, I'll get a new one in and take it to the shop and jig it up and slap it in. It takes MAYBE 5 full minutes to swap out a center diff on an auto 1g. All in good time sir, all in good time.

 

[tsi209]

Come on josh we need more updates bro lets keep the ball rolling i need more ideas

 

[Bricktop]

Fabricator? What have you fabbed on any of your " builds"? You bought " The Raven" as a rolling shell. You didn't fabricate so much as a manifold on either car. What did the raven run at the track? I know it made it there for some pics but, no times are posted.

By the way how many builds are you doing at this time? I found a lightning build, a f-100 4.6 cobra build and now a jeep build? Come on dude. You "built" the "Raven" out of a damn storage locker.

 

[TSimage]

Come on josh we need more updates bro lets keep the ball rolling i need more ideas

I sent you a text, we'll hook up this upcoming week hopefully and get to work on your harness too.

Fabricator? What have you fabbed on any of your " builds"? You bought " The Raven" as a rolling shell. You didn't fabricate so much as a manifold on either car. What did the raven run at the track? I know it made it there for some pics but, no times are posted.

By the way how many builds are you doing at this time? I found a lightning build, a f-100 4.6 cobra build and now a jeep build? Come on dude. You "built" the "Raven" out of a damn storage locker.

I guess I can lower my intelligence level to try to communicate with you best I can. As far as fabrication goes that is by trade. I'm an Architectural Engineer in the sheetmetal union. I don't believe I said anything about welding up anything more than a few mounts, bolt holes or cages in past cars. ? Are you confused as to what you're talking about?

As far as builds, the Lightning that you saw at the beginning of the thread is done. The F100 had a lightning 5.4 (Pulled from previous lighting when it went built) not a 4.6 cobra motor and the Jeep is a project I hoped into after I finally went with my neighbor (the one who welded the diff) to a couple trails and had a blast, always wanted one so I why not.

The Raven was never built out of a storage unit. At that point in time I had 8 cars so 3 were in storage. I can assure you it wasn't built in a storage unit:

I dunno about where you live but here we call "storage lockers" that are over 5000sqft with tools and lifts a SHOP. ( this is why I don't understand why people say stupid sh*t without facts when its so easy to rebuttal?) I have a few more projects planned and as soon as I find platforms I'll be looking into them. Always wanted to shove a 4G into a early 70s 240z and once I sell this car I want to really grab another Euro.

I like building projects and thats what I do, I go through cars like a fat kid through a box of donuts. If you can, why not? I don't build for anyone's approval nor do I understand why some people feel their opinions or their very existence is important enough to brow beat me as to how to operate or dictate what I do on my own time with my money . If people could afford multiple projects, they would, I have automotive ADD and no one knows what the future holds so I am having fun for as long as I am blessed to do so.

So with that, unless you have any tips on wiring, handy dandy tucking advice, auto swaps or happen to know a good place I can find a nice solid 240/260z shell I guess that ends our conversation. To me its more about the journey, having fun and trying stuff others haven't or trying to take things a little farther and being proud of it in the end.

Geez, you guys bicker and gossip like women. In the mean time enjoy some wiring updates here soon. ^_^

 

[Bricktop]

Lower your intelligence? I don't know if it's your manner of speaking, or your attitude. But something rubs me the wrong way. Reading through your threads, I'm not alone in this. But, welding bolt holes and mounts. Thats nothing. The Raven already had a cage in it when you bought it. What cage?
My bad on the 5.4. I pulled it from memory. It's still a Modular Ford V8 with a Roots blower. My bad. Although, an 03-04 Termy 4.6 Engine would have been a better choice.

As far as the storage unit goes, That's all that was ever shown though out your build thread. Again, My bad. Just going by what I saw.

To me, it seemed as though you tried to pass yourself off as an automotive fabricator. NOT an Architectual engineer.

BTW What did the Raven run? You answered everything but.

 

[Chris1990gsx]

looks great

 

[tsi209]

Keep the updates coming josh. Good job by the way and haters stay hating. Where on the forums to learn and do research. It shouldn't matter what his car ran or runs. Stay on topic or just don't post keep it moving.

 

[Bricktop]

Hater? LMFAO Please. This kid is where I was 15 years ago. I've had my NHRA 9 sec licence since 2001. For atleast 4 years, every winner of the World Fold Challenge had something my Mig or Tig touched on it. I could fill this forum with 7 and 8 second cars that I have personally had a hand in. But, I don't have an elitist attitude.

But, Carry on.