1G 90 Trans on 91 Talon Clutch Stuck Engaged..

[Chaoticdopey]

Ok so i had a 1990 Gsx trans installed into my 91 Talon and have no 5th or reverse, well I read to fix that i have to swap over the shift lever from the 91 transmission which I will do tomorrow, but also with the clutch pedal fully pushed in the clutch is still engaged some, i tested it by starting it in 1st and in Neutral, when i start the car im also rolling with it as the starter is moving the car, shop said they adjusted it as much as they could, so im kind of stumped as i would like to drive the damn thing. It has a ACT 2600 clutch and PP with a 12lb flywheel, did not change anything from either transmission as the Throwout bearing on the new trans was healthier than my old trans, and clutch was never removed when trans was pulled, please advise me on what to do..

 

[Vegas Smith]

So they didn't re-bleed the clutch or mess with anything else? Just a straight up switch-out?

 

[Justin Lauscher]

When I put a 93 trans in my 90, I swapped everything. I still had the same issues you were having even after welding my pedal. What I resorted to and its worked flawless for the past year is I lenghened the rod for the master cylinder and put some washers behind my master to kid of compensate to get that perfect amount. I just barely threaded part of a rod into a nut and tack welded it, then just threaded the other side of the nut on the existing rod and tightened a nut against it. Im not saying this is a good permanent fix, but it's worked very well for me and my southbend.

 

[Chaoticdopey]

So they didn't re-bleed the clutch or mess with anything else? Just a straight up switch-out?

Not 100% sure on that but i would believe so as they used the slave cylinder from the 90 trans and the clutch feels like it did before, hard as hell like any act 2600 feels

When I put a 93 trans in my 90, I swapped everything. I still had the same issues you were having even after welding my pedal. What I resorted to and its worked flawless for the past year is I lenghened the rod for the master cylinder and put some washers behind my master to kid of compensate to get that perfect amount. I just barely threaded part of a rod into a nut and tack welded it, then just threaded the other side of the nut on the existing rod and tightened a nut against it. Im not saying this is a good permanent fix, but it's worked very well for me and my southbend.

Ill have to see if this works..

 

[Vegas Smith]

I would talk to whoever installed it first to see what they did but maybe there was a shim on the pivot ball on the old transmission and now there isn't one on the new??

 

[Chaoticdopey]

I would talk to whoever installed it first to see what they did but maybe there was a shim on the pivot ball on the old transmission and now there isn't one on the new??

Let me go check my old trans real quick and ill let you know!

 

[Chaoticdopey]

I would talk to whoever installed it first to see what they did but maybe there was a shim on the pivot ball on the old transmission and now there isn't one on the new??

No shim seen when i took the fork off

 

[Vegas Smith]

Just to confirm: This is a new problem with the new trans or something you dealt with on the old one too?

 

[pauleyman]

Did they put all the bolts in especially the one above the tcase. 2600 is stout enough to push the trans away from the motor and tweak it a bit if that bolt is missing. Ask me how I know.

 

[Chaoticdopey]

Just to confirm: This is a new problem with the new trans or something you dealt with on the old one too?

New problem

 

[turboAWDfanatic]

These cars are NOTORIOUS for clutch disengagement issues, especially after swaps or when putting in a heavier after market clutch. Most mechanic shops are clueless past just threading the master cylinder adjustment rod out. There's a number of things that need to be looked at, some of which have already been mentioned. If you're going to stick with a heavy clutch pressure plate like the 2600, everything HAS to be in perfect working order. Don't skip anything and don't assume that you're not having one of these issues just because they can be difficult to diagnose:

• Make sure ALL the trans bolts have been installed and properly torqued. The trans can separate from the engine preventing disengagement
• Make sure the master and slave cylinder are both in good condition. Look for fluid leaks at the boot of each one. Check clutch line for leaks at fittings. Check the soft rubber part of the clutch fluid line to see if it's brittle/expanding/leaking/etc. If going bad, replace with OEM parts
• Properly bleed the hydraulics. There's about 100 wrong ways to do this and a few right ways. Search these forums and YouTube for the proper procedure
• Adjust the clutch pedal. Watch Jack's video on how to do this properly
• Check that the pivot ball isn't worn out. Make sure the fork is in the center of the inspection window and not over towards the passenger side. If it is worn out, get a new pivot ball and fork, and you can add a washer for good measure if you want
• Check for a worn clutch pedal lever. This is a chronic issue affecting a lot of 1G owners. Search on how to find this problem. You can replace it with OEM parts, or, if you're going with a heavy clutch you can get it welded. Again, there's about 100 wrong ways to weld a DSM clutch pedal, so search on the proper way to get it done

If you've done all of these, and everything is 100% in order, you may need more clutch fork throw to fully disengage the 2600 lb pressure plate. Whatever you do, DO NOT GET AN EXTENDED SLAVE CYLINDER ROD!!! This is the wrong way to achieve more throw and can cause other problems. The RIGHT way to do this is to have a nut welded onto the master cylinder rod clevis, which is the bracket that the master cylinder rod threads into. Look at this picture, see where the jam nut is? Imagine welding that nut in place so the rod can thread further out from the surface of the clevis. Then add another nut to use as a jam nut.

 

[Chaoticdopey]

These cars are NOTORIOUS for clutch disengagement issues, especially after swaps or when putting in a heavier after market clutch. Most mechanic shops are clueless past just threading the master cylinder adjustment rod out. There's a number of things that need to be looked at, some of which have already been mentioned. If you're going to stick with a heavy clutch pressure plate like the 2600, everything HAS to be in perfect working order. Don't skip anything and don't assume that you're not having one of these issues just because they can be difficult to diagnose:

• Make sure ALL the trans bolts have been installed and properly torqued. The trans can separate from the engine preventing disengagement
• Make sure the master and slave cylinder are both in good condition. Look for fluid leaks at the boot of each one. Check clutch line for leaks at fittings. Check the soft rubber part of the clutch fluid line to see if it's brittle/expanding/leaking/etc. If going bad, replace with OEM parts
• Properly bleed the hydraulics. There's about 100 wrong ways to do this and a few right ways. Search these forums and YouTube for the proper procedure
• Adjust the clutch pedal. Watch Jack's video on how to do this properly
• Check that the pivot ball isn't worn out. Make sure the fork is in the center of the inspection window and not over towards the passenger side. If it is worn out, get a new pivot ball and fork, and you can add a washer for good measure if you want
• Check for a worn clutch pedal lever. This is a chronic issue affecting a lot of 1G owners. Search on how to find this problem. You can replace it with OEM parts, or, if you're going with a heavy clutch you can get it welded. Again, there's about 100 wrong ways to weld a DSM clutch pedal, so search on the proper way to get it done

If you've done all of these, and everything is 100% in order, you may need more clutch fork throw to fully disengage the 2600 lb pressure plate. Whatever you do, DO NOT GET AN EXTENDED SLAVE CYLINDER ROD!!! This is the wrong way to achieve more throw and can cause other problems. The RIGHT way to do this is to have a nut welded onto the master cylinder rod clevis, which is the bracket that the master cylinder rod threads into. Look at this picture, see where the jam nut is? Imagine welding that nut in place so the rod can thread further out from the surface of the clevis. Then add another nut to use as a jam nut.

Well i checked most of that, nuts are tight on the trans and transfer case, they did add a longer slave rod and it was still having the problem, i switched the shift lever on the trans from my other trans and now i'm getting 5th and Rev, here is a video of the disengagement if it means anything, I also bought a new Master and Slave cylinder just because the car is old as shit that I will install tomorrow, and you seem to be a guru and i will buy you beer and some dinner for some help + gas money being you don't live to far....

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[pauleyman]

You are not getting enough travel and get rid of that extended rod. Show us where the fork sits without that extended rod

 

[Chaoticdopey]

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I made another video and with that bolt they used as an extended rod it maxes out the travel of the shift fork to the trans.. Does this mean i have to pull it?