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90 Laser RS-t drag build

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Thanks Shane and Nathan! I was happy with the outcome on the exhaust. I'll probably pick up an exhaust tip and start working on the front fender exit tomorrow or Monday.

nitrouskris - just go to Bogart Racing Wheels and search through their wheels. Get ready to fork over some decent money. They are about $390-400 per wheel from what I remember him saying on the phone!
 
Got the exhaust pretty much finished. I might go back and add a shield around the exhaust tip. The tip is a 3" inlet, 3.25" I.D. resonated tip (barely anything, more like resonated design inside the tip than an actual working resonator) with 3.5" O.D. Should work decent. Just the clamp on type so I can get the tip lined up decent with the bumper and so I can loosen it if I need to pull the exhaust off!

IMAG0106_zpsf6631fa0.jpg


IMAG0107_zpsf7482bdc.jpg


Let me know what you guys think. Track results from a few shakedown passes should be coming soon!!!
 
Very nice. Subscribed. I am going a very similar route with my car though at a much slower pace. This car is awesome.


Would you believe me if I said I bought it for $1400? :D

I hate you. haha
 
Thanks Phil. The first outing will be on the stock trans, open diff and who knows what clutch. Those are the things I'm worried about the most, but hopefully it will hold up for me to get a few runs in.

Don't sweat all that.....just go at it.

Do you have experience heating the slicks?

Just get some practice in and you should be able to drop into the 12s without too much effort.

You'll need to dial in your launches/driving to drop into the 11's.

An 11.8 FWD 14b car is a damn fast car, trapping near 120.

After that, power to weight, and optimal launches are the key.
 
GH, thanks for the post!

Phil, I have had two cars with slicks...another DSM a few years back that was almost stock and an SRT4. I got a little practice heating the slicks in those two cars. Since I don't know what clutch, I will probably just do 1st gear burnouts today. Once the driveline gets upgraded I will do second gear burnouts.
 
Awesome, well I hope to hear some good news:thumb:
 
Well, here are the updates. Had a fun night, but it had it's share of little issues.

Started off running a 19.986 @ 91.789 mph...forgot my NLTS was set to 4k rpm from when I was testing it earlier this week. That along with me resting my foot on the pedal, everytime it hit 4k rpm, the rpm would hang and it would go into NLTS mode with the rpm holding around 4k. Swapped that to 6k rpm and stopped resting my foot and no more issues with that. Here are a rundown of my times after that:

60' - 1/8 time/ET - 1/4 time/ET

2.239 - 8.670 @ 85.342 - 13.328 @ 103.635
1.934 - 8.407 @ 84.427 - 13.109 @ 103.152
1.954 - 8.374 @ 84.886 - 13.106 @ 101.408
1.827 - 8.359 @ 81.804 - 13.290 @ 95.084
1.781 - 8.325 @ 94.757 - 13.295 @ 95.725

As you can see, the 60' times and 1/8th mile continued to improve, but starting on the 3rd run there, the 1/4 mph started dropping off. That being said, in the last run (I'll post the video) you can see the car smoking through the muffler. Burning oil. Airflow was down from high 180s-190s in 3rd gear to 150s. Thought for sure the turbo was toast. After looking today after work, there was probably around 5-6 oz. of oil in my intake pipe. There was a very little bit on top of the manifold that came out of the v/c gasket. When I checked the oil level, it was just over a quart low!! Did a boost leak test and only found 2 small leaks...one from the j-pipe (which I knew was there) and my fittings on my MBC had a slight leak...both around 13-14 psi. I was running about 15psi at the track. Pulled the intercooler pipes and they were coated with oil. I knew if oil was pushed through the piping, the stock intercooler probably had a bit of oil in it...3 red shop rags worth of oil in it! After looking further, I found that my catch can was full of oil. So it was pulling oil from the catch can into my intake and then blowing it through the engine. My catch can is only about 15 oz or so, however, it pulled this much oil in three 3rd gear pulls on Tuesday (checking the car out before the track) and the 3.5-4 runs at the track (with burnouts). No idea why I am getting so much pressure in the v/c and why it's blowing so much oil through. My catch can runs uses a line from the stock v/c fitting and then to the intake with a filter on top of the catch can. I also have the PCV valve replaced with a barbed fitting and another hose going from there to the intake to pull more air out of the v/c. The stock PCV valve fitting on the intake manifold is plugged off. I'm going to do a compression test soon just to make sure everything is ok. I never saw a single count of knock all night. As Justin mentioned, I'm going to get a new knock sensor to be on the safe side. The one in there now is a 'resealed' knock sensor!

Here are photos and pics for entertainment (BTW - open diff sucks for burnouts - changing that soon):

IMAG0113_zps72f74928.jpg



[ame]http://youtu.be/d8wCl5kfCTo[/ame]

[ame]http://youtu.be/IIt8L16lGlY[/ame]
 
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I'm gonna say ring lands are shot. I haven't looked through the whole thread, but what pistons are you running??

The whole drivers side of your car must have been covered in oil. If not, then it was just burning whatever oil was being ingested by the throttle body.

Even so, it should not push that much oil into any catch can.
 
Ted, I agree it's definitely an excessive amount of oil. The engine was burning it all as there wasn't any oil on the side of my car...just some black dust right around the exhaust from the exhaust smoke.

I'll be looking into it more over the next few days. Going to order a leak down tester, do a compression check and leak down check.

The motor itself is stock from what I was told. The only thing I was told that it has are revised lifters, but I haven't even checked. I'll be doing a lot of checkups to see what I can find. I hope it's nothing with the pistons or rings as I was hoping to run the stock bottom end for a while, but if it is, then I'll have to start making plans for a few bottom end upgrades and it will be down through the winter. Time and testing will tell!
 
Had it not had the oiling issues, it would have been in the 12s pretty easily. I picked up a leakdown tester today. As long as it works the way it's supposed to, then I'll hopefully know something in the next couple of days. Just gotta find some time to do the compression and leakdown tests!
 
Compression test done. Not so good.

#1 - 150psi
#2 - 135psi
#3 - 105psi
#4 - 120psi

Did the wet compression test with about an ounce of oil in #3 and #4:

#3 - 136psi
#4 - 148psi

Rings must not be sealing very well at all. Car is probably going to be down for the winter and I'll start making some upgrades. Was hoping to run the stock motor for a while, but guess that's not in the cards with this one. So I guess it will give me time to try to get everything pretty much setup like I want it, and pull some decent weight out!! Gotta look on the bright side! I'll probably keep it running for a but and not pull it apart quite yet until I get some funds saved up. The car still runs fine, just not going to be so great for making any power! Once I get some funds saved up, I'll pull it apart and see what all is needed prior to starting the orders!
 
Tore the motor down...broken ring lands on all 4 pistons...not cracked, but broken. I pulled pieces of the ring land between the upper and lower rings out/off of the piston. I think my knock sensor isn't working. I'll be swapping it out for a new one.

Now to debate on what to do with the car. I would love to build the motor, but don't have nowhere near the funds right now. Probably try to pick up some used/stock parts and get it back running at least.
 
What brand are the pistons? If there are no Mitsubishi Diamond logos on the sides by the wrist pins, I would almost think they were ITMs.

I have seen NPRs hold up in a locals DSM to 40psi, lots of timing and run low 11s to a 10.9.

I have personally gone through a set of ITMs and broke every ring land in every cylinder on 30psi running methanol.

I have also seen a cylinder kill ring lands on an OEM piston because an injector clip came off.

Many variables here, but the bottom line is- How much do you want to spend? and How soon do you want to drive her again?
 
Factory pistons...they have the Mitsu logo beside the pin.

Probably going to hold off for a bit until I take some time to decide exactly what I want. I do want it together quickly, as I would love to hit the track up a few more times this year. However, I do have a setup in mind I would love to try on the 14b and other small frame turbos. We'll see over the next couple of weeks what I decide to do! In the mean time, I'll be putting the car on a diet!
 
Dam bro, I'm sorry to hear that. I know how it feels. I recently blew a head gasket between two cylinder and the car would start but I wasn't able to move it because of it running on only the two so I tore it down the same week and found the head gasket broke. I didn't know what it was at first because I did a few things too it and was on my way to Infineon when it happened.

Anyhow, I was thinking and talking to my wife and I have a little idea but its probably a stupid idea. I have been following this thread for some time and I admire what your doing and are trying to do. I know you want to build it and I know you want to make it to the track again. So I thought maybe you can find someone to sale you some 1g rods or use the ones you have and ill give you my 2g pistons. My block only had 143,xxx and saw its first mod at 136,xxx which was an intake pipe so it's first real mod was at 14xxxx and only saw 24 psi for a month or so. They look in good shape and my block is still together in my garage if you want to come check them out? I just want to see you get closer to your goals. I am so upset about my car being down for two months being built because I too have things I want to accomplish so I know how you feel. I also have other things I can contribute to you as well if you need stuff. I will most likely give you whatever I have that you would need.

I also have a AC DC tig welder you could use if you wanted to fab something up or tube the front or something and wanted to it yourself. I'm not far from you at all so it wouldn't be hard of a drive at all.

That way you can still race this year and yet still save up for a built block for next year. I just thought I would share that thought.

Good luck on whatever you decide to do.

Anthony B.
 
Wow ^ Cool guy right here. Nice to see this.....

Well, I'd hope he'd take you up on it!

Cheers...
 
Just sent you a pm, Anthony!

Well, I must say, I'm more impressed with the fact this car ran low 13s on the 14b. My car had a leak at around 10psi from the j-pipe. I knew it had been removed based on the gasket that was on there. I pulled the gasket off and RTV was all in the airstream. Lucky it didn't come lose. I'm going to upgrade the T/B elbow, so I decided to pull the T/B off the manifold. Same issue with the T/B to manifold fitting. Excess RTV in the air stream. But guess what I found on the elbow to T/B side - NO RTV or gasket! I didn't ever hear it leak at 10psi, but I'm sure it started leaking at higher pressure. I was running 14-15psi peak, and it was holding 14psi. Pretty amazed at that. I'll be doing some more fabricating for i/c piping, intake, etc. We'll see how it works out!

Also working on a cheap but strong rod/piston combo!
 
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