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90 Laser RS-t drag build

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If this is the case, I don't want to patch it with that little circuit card. I want to find the issue behind why it was installed in the first place and repair it.

Well thats why i made my comment, you said you took it off and everything seems to be working fine, but that doesnt mean it is, thats why it had that installed, dont you think so? you also said you were going to put dsmlink on it, i wouldnt like to see a post in your thread about your ecu going bad :thumb: anyways nice thread :cool:
Well, knowing the timing is off on the balance shafts somewhere, causing the crazy vibe above 3500 rpm, I started getting ready to checking all the timing. As soon as I pulled the cam gear cover, this is what I found:


This is that new timing belt that was just released...lighter and more bling. LOL I believe the cause is from one of the oil pan bolts being too long (thanks Justin). So I've pulled everything off including the timing belt. The oil pump balance shaft was off by 1/4 turn. Everything else seemed to be aligned properly.

While I'm waiting on my new belt to come tomorrow, I decided to pull the intake manifold. I had heard a boost leak around the manifold when I was doing my BLT. Decided to work this out while the car is down. Hope to have it fired back up on the 4th or 5th.

As much as I really wanted to run this car in stock form, I know this is already impossible, as the car already has a walbro 190lph fuel pump with rewire and an air filter. That said, since the intake manifold is off, I'll probably go ahead and pull the a/c compressor and some of the a/c lines so I don't have to do it later. I'll also probably go ahead and put on my AFPR to make sure the fuel pressure is in check. I think it would be fine with just a 190lph pump, but considering the car has had the slight fluctuation issue at idle, I want to get rid of every possibility while it's easy.

We'll see how things turn out in a few days or so.

Timing belt is on. Cleaned up the intake manifold. About to pull the A/C components least the compressor and lines. I might wait and pull the condensor later on. Not sure if I want to pull the front apart yet.
Car is running ok. Still has a slightly weird idle. Might have to double check the timing belt one more time, although I've already checked it a few times. I know the cams are lined up perfectly. I hope the crank is still lined up the way I set it and it didn't slip a tooth while I was setting the tension on the tensioner pulley. The base timing is good at 5* BTDC. The car revs great and has no more vibration. I'll keep plugging away tomorrow if I get the chance, and check it over.

As for upgrades, I added a few things. I added an FP manifold that's ceramic coated, heat barrier I/M gasket, AFPR, MBC, tubular o2 housing with atmosphere dump, 3" exhaust with single resonator that dumps under the back seat. Wideband sensor is installed, I just need to make a gauge holder for it and get it all connected up! I also swapped out my full size battery for a mini battery.

I also picked up 4 slicks with wheels. 24.5 x 8.5 M&H slicks on 15x8 Rota slipstreams. I got 4 from a buddy that had an AWD, so I should have plenty of tire to last a long time since I have two sets. I might try to sell a pair and use the money I get back for some skinnies to throw on the back. We'll see how that turns out!
Double checked the timing and I believe it is now good to go. I shimmed the stock wastegate quite a bit. Had my MBC turned all the way down. Took her for a test drive and it ramped up to 20 psi before I could even get out of the throttle. Boost comes on quick. While I was driving on the back roads, I decided to have a little fun. Even with feathering the throttle in first and keeping boost around 10-12psi, the car just roasts the tires with ease...and breaks the tires loose in 2nd when coming into boost. She's a fun one to try to control in low gears now! Can't wait to put the V3 computer in there, get some race gas and turn up the boost.

On a side note, when I was going to swap on the FP manifold, I pulled off the 6cm hotside because I was going to port it. Upon inspection, the wastegate flapper isn't even sealing 100%. There is a very small spot on one side that's right at the edge of the flapper. It might be just enough to seal it, but it's on the verge of leaking if it isn't. That being said, I'll probably start looking for a 7cm hotside. If I can't find one in the next month or two, I'll look into possibly picking up a E316g (swap the hotside, then the turbo once I'm done with the 14b) or I'll pick up the FP 8cm hotside.

I'm curious on the VIN number to be sure.

Title doesn't mean anything for I've seen wrong information placed on titles, esp when the vehicle has multiple owners and from various states.

If the VIN begins with a "4P3" it's a Plymouth.

But, if the VIN begins with a "4E3" definitely an Eagle.

"4A3" VIN is an Eclipse.

Lots of body moulding definitely making it more Eagle than Plymouth, for Eagle did have a FWD turbo chassis. Even Eagle wheels.

True, the rear end made up to the 1GB Eagle line...which is easy to do on a 1GA body.

Headliners are a snap to get out at a yard. Just find some busted up 1G's with good liners and snag you a couple for cheap.


The VIN begins with 4P3, both the sticker in the door jamb and the dash. :D

Well thats why i made my comment, you said you took it off and everything seems to be working fine, but that doesnt mean it is, thats why it had that installed, dont you think so? you also said you were going to put dsmlink on it, i wouldnt like to see a post in your thread about your ecu going bad :thumb: anyways nice thread :cool:

Figured out what the little card was for. It almost goes back to what was mentioned in a previous post about putting a 91+ ECU in the 90, but that's not it. The 90 cruise control is different, so for a clutch cut for NLTS or 2 step, you have to loose cruise control or wire in a resistor, per ECMlink wiki pages. After looking at the wires it was connected to, I think it was tapped in to get 12v from the MPI relay pin and then to a chassis ground, then connected to an orange wire that went back to the clutch switch. That being said, I'll be leaving the car without the circuit card and I'll be doing it the "who cares about cruise, it's deleted" way! LOL
Thanks Nate.
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Put a little time in on the car yesterday evening. Removed all the interior panels from the doors back to the hatch. I also removed the rear seat, rear sway bar (big 26mm aftermarket sway bar), rear crash beam and the spoiler (all pieces off the hatch and the side), but I might put the sides back on and run it Phil1320 style! I also removed the door and rear speakers. In all, I've added up about 220-230lb of weight removed. I removed the A/C compressor and the two lines coming off of it a while back.

Getting a good deal on some wheels/tires which should save me a ton of weight. The car has twin piston calipers and rotors, so I'm swapping the fronts out with a friend for some stock 1g single piston calipers and rotors. I'm hoping to get the brackets made for my Summit Racing seat over the next couple of days. Once made, I'll pull out the stock driver seat. Passenger seat will probably stay until I get another Summit seat since it can quickly and easily be removed for the track.

I also picked up a tow dolly to pull the car to the track. This thing started off faded white and burgundy. The wires were dry rotted and they would just break apart, even the copper strands. So I pressure washed it, scuffed it up slightly, painted it, put a new lights kit and wires on it and put some new tires straps on it! Turned out pretty good and should work well!


I'll post more updates later on!
Good update Brandon! I wish you lived closer so shipping wasn't an issue but I'm going to be getting rid of my summit racing seat/cover in favor of a Sparco Evo next. While the summit seat is super light and no problem from drag racig, I need a little more comfort/support for off road racing!

I tried for a while to fid a used dolly in my price range but ended up having to buy a brand new one just because I couldn't find anything. It looks great the way you refurbished it!
Those dollies sell for around $500 around here in barely usable condition. I got mine for $350 and it was usable and everything worked. Now I have about $480 into it, and if I wanted to upgrade to a flat bed in the future, I could probably sell this for at least $700-800.

Wish I was closer for that seat too! I know what you mean about the comfort. I'll still keep my car on the street for some car meets and just some quick trips, but it's going to be about 90% track oriented...for now. It will eventually probably be a track only car, but I'd like to keep it on the street right now as well!
Small update: driver's seat replaced with a Summit Racing polymer seat. I opted for the brackets w/ sliders, so that added a couple extra lbs. Total weight savings is about 19-20 lb. Should put my total weight savings up around the 250lb mark.
Removed another 80-85 lb today...possibly more depending on what I want to keep in the car right now!
Another update:

The previous total on weight removal ended up being right at 100lb instead of 80-85lb. Should get my weight savings up to about 350lb.

The update I want to mention came via another 14b runner! I got a great deal on a beautiful and lightweight set of drag wheels with slicks/skinnies!


Thanks again Nathan!!
Few more some wiring messed up (which I shouldn't have done anyway) and I think it crapped out my power transistor. Got a couple headed to my house now...should be here in the next couple of days. Picked up a couple so I have a spare for the future.

Got my 2g front brakes swapped out for the stock 1g brakes (thanks Dave)! Still gotta bleed the brakes. Half width radiator with fan is installed! I'll be putting in my 'blocked off' water pipe tomorrow. It has the heater core port welded shut right at the main water pipe and the water line for the turbo blocked off with a bolt. I have the bolts needed to block off the water lines on my turbo, so I'll be doing that as well! I also pulled the power steering out today. So she's moving slowly.

Also got a few more things lined up...adjustable coilover springs, intake for 2g maf, FIC 650s (race gas), piping and flanges on the way for a super short and lightweight exhaust (currently dumps just in front of the rear dead axle), a little bit of port work and the start of an intercooler setup!

Before the track I want to get the springs, porting and MAF done. Splash in some race gas with the slicks and skinnies and see how she runs. I know the clutch was replaced prior to me getting the car, but not sure what it was replaced with. I know the pedal pressure isn't stiff (stock feeling). It might roast the clutch, but if the clutch holds, I'd love to see the car dip into the 12s and try to pull some 1.8x 60' times. Would be a great start to the car for what it currently has done. Knowing I went 13.8 in a previous 90 model with a slipping clutch, only 100lb of weight removed, slicks on the front, and a mbc at 14.5 psi on 91 octane makes me feel that dipping into the 12s is possible. Wheels alone will save about 70lb and the passenger seat will save another ~35lb. That along with the power steering stuff that was removed today should have over 450lb of total weight removed!!!

Will be back to post up prior to hitting up the track!!
Power transistor done. Car idling great on the little 650s! Coil springs got delivered. Intake and exhaust stuff should be here Monday and I'll start working on all that...intake shouldn't take 10 minutes as I already know what I'm doing with the setup...just couplers and a short pipe. Just need two fittings for vacuum lines. Exhaust has to be fabbed up, so that will be a bit longer. Suspension will take a little while because I'll be bleeding the brakes, cutting spring perches, etc as I go. Might try to hit the track next Wednesday for Street Legal day and just see what kind of shakedowns she makes.
When I do go, if the clutch holds up, I have hopes it will run a little better...only time will tell.
Got some more work done. Had to get some new front shocks because the stock ones had rust all over it...on the extension piece, the body, the spring, etc. That said, I got the new fronts installed with adjustable coil springs. Here is what it looked like after I got the setup installed with the spring perches at their lowest setting:


Still a 4x4 car with slicks on the front. So I took them back off, removed the adjustable perches and just let the springs sit on the stock spring perch. Looks like this:


Also got the rear AGX adjustable shocks and adjustable springs on. The car is almost level...just a hair up on the rear. I have enough room to raise the back about another 1.5" if needed. But here is the pic of how it sits with the drag wheels/tires installed:


I also got my intake setup with the 2g maf built. Just need to seal off the vacuum line fittings so no air leaks in around them and she will be good. Pulled my exhaust and o2 housing off. It dumped under the back seat and had a 20" resonator on it. I'm making a new dump exhaust that will probably dump up front somewhere, or come out of the front bumper on the driver's side. Should save another 10-15lb over my current setup, which is already about 20lb lighter than the stock setup!!! I also got my catch can installed today! Very happy about that to keep the nasty stuff out of my intake. I'll probably swap over to SD later on this year or during the winter! I'll post up pics once I get the exhaust done!
I want to see a track visit soon as well. Should be right around the corner.
New exhaust I made...needs a turndown or an exhaust tip to extend out the front bumper and it will be finished!!


Thanks Phil. The first outing will be on the stock trans, open diff and who knows what clutch. Those are the things I'm worried about the most, but hopefully it will hold up for me to get a few runs in.
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