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90 1g GSX clean and custom daily driver

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elocneas

Proven Member
110
8
Oct 11, 2012
Nashville, Tennessee
Came to my house on a tow truck 9 months ago. I have since stripped it down and just got the engine bay finished and painted.

The plans for the engine bay are:

Fuse box and battery relocation, wire tuck starting by moving the harness to come from the middle if the firewall, welded all seams and holes not to be used, relocate brake lines and fuel lines, re shape strut towers and streamline body lines. (replace headlight bucket).

Engine:

Magnus heat barrier gasket on 1g IM with 3000gt tb and turbo seal upgrade, ngk plug wires, 2g stock ignition, cas with wiring harness for 2g, fuel rail, revised lifters, web 264/265 cams, new valves new valve stem seals, new timing belt, new oil pump, balance shaft deleted, new timing stuff, oe crank pulley, full 6 bolt, with 9:1 compression mahle pistons, with side skirt protection, gas relief ports, floating wrist pins on manley H beam rods, new seals everywhere, all oem, oem MLS head gasket the block was decked along with the head, for perfect fitment.

Turbo/ECU setup:

20g TD05 (I have 2 holset turbos with bep to use also), v3 full, ets front mount, aluminum aftermarket radiator, 3" full turbo back exhaust, FP manifold, 1000 cc injectors (going to run E85), tial bov, tial external waste gate, aeromotive FPR.

Interior/body:

Not sure yet on some of the mods here but will see as I have all of the interior including the dash out of the car so I can move the fuse box and rewire. I will be removing the rear wiper, fixing some other body issues and giving the car a paint job to match the engine bay.

I will update on the other mods as they come along. Here are some pics so far.
 

Attachments

  • old interior.JPG
  • passenger welds.jpg
  • cut out final.jpg
  • pass headlight bfor cuting.jpg
  • pre welding 2.jpg
  • strut tower.jpg
  • interior.JPG
  • trunk stripped.JPG
  • pass patch eng harness.jpg
  • 023.jpg
  • 019.jpg
  • 013.jpg
  • 011.jpg
  • 008.jpg
  • 005.jpg
  • 001.jpg
  • Paint Front.jpg
  • Primer 5.jpg
  • primer 3.jpg
  • prep 3.jpg
  • prep 2.jpg
Just going to update with some progress photos.

Lost of cleaning/striping, priming, and painting for all the parts going back on the car. Assembly has started but working through how items are going to be ran (brake lines and fuel).

Installed the wheel bearings, ES bushings in, ball joints, and trying to find a manual steering rack from a 1.8 so I can put on new tie rod ends and get that part of the car hooked up.

More progress hopefully in the coming weeks so I can drop the motor in and start working on the wiring.
 

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Update on progress that has slowed a bit.

Front suspension is in after deciding to depower the power steering rack instead of hunting down a 1.8 manual rack. I took apart the entire rack and removed the ring on the shaft. While I was in there I sanded and polished the parts to reduce any friction the rack will see. I replaced the tie rods inner and outer along with the boots. I also packed the rack with grease. I used the fittings with grease nipples when I had it back assembled and pumped grease in the rack not sure it will help we will see.

Got the ground controls on with agx adjustable shocks to get the car back on the ground so I can do the wiring and drop the motor in.

Installed my stock fly wheel that was resurfaced, 6 puck clutch, and 2100 lb pressure plate and torqued to spec. I just wanted to say if you live close to the Nashville TN area Tennessee clutch is awesome they make there clutches and have been around for years. The great part was I paid 130 for the clutch, pressure plate, new throw out, and got my flywheel resurfaced. Thats a dam good deal.

The accessory harness has been one of those :banghead::ohdamn: put it in, ran it, then said what the hell was I thinking. I don't know why my original idea was to run it through the center where I made my hole to relocate the engine harness, but after running it and seeing that big gob of wire I yanked it all out of the car. I decided to do the right thing which is run it inside the car. First I went online to bust out the factory service manual for the wiring circuit diagrams to get familiar with the wire colors and flow. I measured length of the firewall and added a foot to the bulk of the harness. Then chopped the extra wire I was not going to need with the new location moving the fuse box to the glove box. I cut each wire individually taping them securely together so I can solder them later. I then addressed the daisy chain/grounding from the factory by cutting and extending them where needed to make the new harness tails. Before I put it back in the car I soldered and shrink tubed the connections I had taped earlier. I ran the drivers side making my extensions then went and did the same for the passenger side. I drilled a hole in the passenger side to run under the finder. Again went back and soldered and shrink tubed all of my connections.

The wiring takes time but got to do it right. Next on the list I am relocating the battery to the trunk which will also give me a chance to test the harnesses before I loom them. Working on getting the rest of my parts on the engine so I can drop it in and work on the engine harness.

:hellyeah:
 

Attachments

I am about two weeks away from start up. I have a lot of photos of the progress I will update to the thread. Going to take some time getting them all together.
133.JPG
 
I used Dupont Nason paints. It was a vw grey. The outside will eventually be grey also with everything else being flat black or red.
 
Just wanted to post some of the many pictures I have from the build. Breaking in the motor now and have been driving so tested all of my wiring and working out most of those issues. I am in the process of tearing down some things to add the 3" stainless exhaust and external waste gate. The main issue I had when starting up was my map sensor for speed density was wired in the incorrect order. The big surprise was the amount of oil pressure I had to deal with before porting the 90 oil filter housing. I was over 90 lbs warm at 2k rpms. No balance shafts, 7 bolt head on a 6 bolt, with the 90 housing which is already restrictive was a no go. I ported and now have 85 psi at 7.5k rpms but still to much spring pressure throughout the lower rpms so that still has to be worked out. I blew out the front oil shaft seal 3 times before I realized how out of whack the oil pressure was. Live and learn did the timing belt job about 5 times in the process. More to come hope to get the bugs worked out so I can work on the exterior and interior of the car. Its pretty dam rough right now.
 

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