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7 bolt build

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williambogner

10+ Year Contributor
40
0
Feb 3, 2010
bolton, Connecticut
personal opinions and what are you running in your car. got a stock 7 bolt. looking to rebuild the whole motor, have time and money and want to do it right. People are always saying to buy a 6 bolt and build that but i think if i replace the crank ill be all set so i think thats the path im going to follow. As for the stroker kits, can someone tell me whats a good brand(s) to go with and what build is reliable***. Looking for 450-500 hp on pump gas in the end. Let me know what you think.
 
personal opinions and what are you running in your car. got a stock 7 bolt. looking to rebuild the whole motor, have time and money and want to do it right. People are always saying to buy a 6 bolt and build that but i think if i replace the crank ill be all set so i think thats the path im going to follow. As for the stroker kits, can someone tell me whats a good brand(s) to go with and what build is reliable***. Looking for 450-500 hp on pump gas in the end. Let me know what you think.

even with a new crank you can still have crankwalk issues, i tell you from experience now i just put a 6 bolt block and a 7 bolt head on my car.

eagle are good stroker kit. :thumb:
if youll invest that kind of money on your build go 6 bolt. jus my 0.02.

you can get a sc6152 journal bearing turbo with a 6 bolt 2.3. thats what i have on my gsx.
 
even with a new crank you can still have crankwalk issues, i tell you from experience now i just put a 6 bolt block and a 7 bolt head on my car.

eagle are good stroker kit. :thumb:
if youll invest that kind of money on your build go 6 bolt. jus my 0.02.

you can get a sc6152 journal bearing turbo with a 6 bolt 2.3. thats what i have on my gsx.

Should have done some research and removed your oil squirters.
 
still why would i want to build a 6 bolt if i already have the 7 bolt and it runs great. I plan on boring it at 0.20 over. I think its a waste to buy a complete other motor and build that when i can build mine replacing the crank...
 
Honestly the 7bolt block is just as buildable as the 6bolt and crankwalk, if that's what you're worried about, is very overrated. What's going to make the build reliable is doing it right not cheap, getting your machine work done correctly, and making sure all your tolerances are in spec. You said your engine is running fine now, and if its got over 60k miles on it and hasn't crankwalked yet, chances are it isn't going to. Just wondering but why do you want to replace your crank? Is it damaged, or are you just wanting to go with a stroker? As far as personal experience I have the stock original 7bolt engine in my GS-T with over 200k on the clock and no crankwalk issues. The engine is just getting tired. I am currently building a 99 7bolt block (with the split thrust bearing) to replace my stock engine. Most of the big names are fine to go with for aftermarket internals (eagle, je, manley, weisco, ross, cp, etc.) I have no personal experience running any of them yet, but I plan on using cp pistons and eagle rods with the stock 2.0L crank.
 
Dont listen to people that dont uderstand how to build a 7 bolt without having it walk.

There is no excuse for a motor to walk. If a motor walks it walks because THE ASSEMBLER didnt check everything. THere are plenty of theories, and they can all be resolved.

Some believe the oil squirters rob the thrust bearings of oil, then weld them shut. Some believe heavy pressure plates cause it, then by a twin disc. Some believe the oil galleys have debri blocking the oil flow, then hot tank it and clean the galleys with wire bottle cleaners. Some believe the main girdle shifts, then you should simulate pressure plate pressure while you torque the main girdle down.

The main girdle poses completely different issues while assembling a motor vs the 6 bolt. The propper process for assembly is not outlined in the FSM. The motor I am currently using was walked albeit very minor, ( at .007" of thrust play). I rebuilt it with this process and it is just fine.

Crankwalk is not just a DSM thing. This is a universal issue for any platform that makes decent power. Especially when they have heavy pressure plates. I dont believe heavy pressure plates cause it, I do believe they are a huge catalyst for the effect. Infact, 6 bolts like to walk sometimes. You just never notice because the symptoms arent there. You have to actually measure the free play.
 
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