The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

7 bolt build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AWDforthewin

Proven Member
116
0
Feb 28, 2014
Springfield, Oregon
Okay so in the next few months I will be starting to build a motor for my car.. I do daily drive the car and I NEED it to be able to withstand 600hp without having to worry about stuff breaking.. That being said..

I really really don't want to find a 6 bolt to swap in. :( I have an extra 7 bolt on hand I was going to build.. What would your opinion be? My only worry is crankwalk...

And what internals would you use (brand,style,size)?
 
Okay so in the next few months I will be starting to build a motor for my car.. I do daily drive the car and I NEED it to be able to withstand 600hp without having to worry about stuff breaking.. That being said..

I really really don't want to find a 6 bolt to swap in. :( I have an extra 7 bolt on hand I was going to build.. What would your opinion be? My only worry is crankwalk...

And what internals would you use (brand,style,size)?

Crankwalk shouldn't be any problem. I too shave a 7bolt i am building and I have done much research. I would say simply search all forums Damn near every question will be answered once twice or three hundreds times. Also there are build journals you can refer to..I check the dyne challenge forum often to see what is working for others and go off that. Do all maintenance. From what I read stock internals can hold at least 350hp. Check the vendors forum as well.
 
Crankwalk shouldn't be any problem. I too shave a 7bolt i am building and I have done much research. I would say simply search all forums Damn near every question will be answered once twice or three hundreds times. Also there are build journals you can refer to..I check the dyne challenge forum often to see what is working for others and go off that. Do all maintenance. From what I read stock internals can hold at least 350hp. Check the vendors forum as well.

My biggest concern is the crankwalk hahah... What all can it ruin again if I don't catch it early do you know?
 
Wire the clutch switch out. So you dont have to depress the clutch when starting. Bam. Just saved ya from crankwalk! LOL. Dont worry about the 7 bolt. It'll be fine so long as you dont push on a 2700+lb pressure plate every time you start it. Thats where it really comes from, if it happens at all. Can you imagine putting that much lateral pressure on a crank with no oil pressure and starting it a couple hundred times or more? No bottom end would like that, 6 bolt 7 bolt doesnt matter.
 
The big thing is bedding the crank IMHO, the external things you can do will help , but if the assembly is not perfect you can end up with issues.
 
A six hundred horsepower 4 cylinder Mitsubishi daily driver is a really bad idea.
 
can you explain that to me? crank walk wont happen if you press the clutch in softly? or not all the way? sorry to sound noobish


Typically in a high hp/tq mt engine you are going to need a heavy pressure plate. Its pretty simple: With no oil pressure on anything, would it be wise to consistently start the engine with a lateral(side) load upwards of 2900lbs? No. This is why we start the car without pushing the clutch in. Any crank, any bottom end, could only take it for so long before you had play in it. Thrust bearings are not built stock or aftermarket to my knowledge, to handle such immense side loads over and over with zero oil pressure to protect surfaces.
Savvy?

Its the very best, simple way to prevent crank walk. Which is overhyped big time. Especially with the "dreaded" 7 bolts ooooooooh scaaaaaaary LOL.

In fact, if i ever buy a mt for a daily driver i will wire the clutch switch out. Can only help longevity of several components.
 
Typically in a high hp/tq mt engine you are going to need a heavy pressure plate. Its pretty simple: With no oil pressure on anything, would it be wise to consistently start the engine with a lateral(side) load upwards of 2900lbs? No. This is why we start the car without pushing the clutch in. Any crank, any bottom end, could only take it for so long before you had play in it. Thrust bearings are not built stock or aftermarket to my knowledge, to handle such immense side loads over and over with zero oil pressure to protect surfaces. Savvy? Its the very best, simple way to prevent crank walk. Which is overhyped big time. Especially with the "dreaded" 7 bolts ooooooooh scaaaaaaary LOL. In fact, if i ever buy a mt for a daily driver i will wire the clutch switch out. Can only help longevity of several components.

How does one wire out the clutch / starter switch
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G OEM AWD Manual Driver Front Axle
    2G OEM AWD Manual Driver Front Axle $80 + shipping & paypal feesYou must be registered to see...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 6 Bolt Oil Pump Pickup
    6 Bolt Oil Pump Pick Up $60 + shipping & paypal feesYou must be registered to see element.You...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G AWD Fuel Pump Hanger
    2G AWD Fuel Pump Hanger $200 + shipping & paypal feesYou must be registered to see element.You...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G AWD Fuel Level Sending Unit
    2G AWD Fuel Level Sending Unit $85 + shipping & paypal fees* this is not the fuel pump hanger...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted Spyder decal for rear bumper MR300306
    My '98 Spyder GS-T lacks the decal on the rear bumper that denotes the car as a Spyder (my...
    • 98MaroonSpyder
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top