600hp + No Robbed Banks

[TurboDork]

I'm wondering what is the cheapest and most reliable way to make a 600hp road course and daily driver. I'm currently thinking GT3576 Turbo, Magnus crate motor, complete fuel upgrades, and ShepTrans. I know that all isn't cheap but I wanna know what else I would NEED. In addition, I want a Tilton pedal box and Ikeya Formula sequential shifter to make it all feel right. Race car feel, while still being street legal.

 

[95AWD6Bolt]

You should shoot for 300hp first, then 400, etc. This topic has been covered numerous times, buying and throwing parts at a 13 year old car just doesnt cut it. You can have 2 out of 3...cheap, fast, reliable.

I suggest that you check out our tech section and start reading through the knowledge that is available on this forum. You need it, one of the, if not the most, important part of a build is your tune and you didnt even mention it.

 

[burkgonzo]

Cheap fast reliable. Pick two.

 

[TSiAWD666]

if you plan on taking 600hp on a road course you sure as hell better not forget about brakes, suspension, and tire, or expect a lot of grass/gravel time.

 

[snowborder714]

I'm going to ask this before I offer any help - do you have the funding to even be considering this extensive of a build? If yes, I will offer some support, but if not, it'll be a waste of my time. Just seeing the words "sequential gearbox" flashes 5 figure numbers in front of my eyes.

 

[TurboDork]

1. Read the tech articles, all of them. Just wanted more personal ideas.
2. Fast and Reliable are my 2 main concerns. I just don't want to have a bunch parts that I buy for certain power levels, like 300hp and then throw them away to achieve greater power. Thats a waste.
3. I didn't forget about suspension, chassis or brakes at all. I got all the info I need on those so thats why I didn't bother mentioning those in this thread.
Thank you

 

[importracr317]

I'm wondering what is the cheapest and most reliable way to make a 600hp road course and daily driver. I'm currently thinking GT3576 Turbo, Magnus crate motor, complete fuel upgrades, and ShepTrans. I know that all isn't cheap but I wanna know what else I would NEED. In addition, I want a Tilton pedal box and Ikeya Formula sequential shifter to make it all feel right. Race car feel, while still being street legal.

Starting with a bone stock car, you're talking about a Magnus crate motor, a ShepTrans...ok....then you go on about a Tilton pedal box and sequential shifter?....in a DSM?.....

Never mind that it would be an utter waste of money, I think you're on the completely wrong platform to drop that kind of coin on a car. Sell your DSM and look at a Z06, Supra, R35, .... hell, even a 350/370Z.

Other things you would need should include full suspension and brake upgrades and a roll cage...N/M, you said you "had that covered already".... OK. Other items you should address include rebuilding the rear diff, aluminum drive shaft, aftermarket axles, racing seats and other safety items, weight reduction (different hood and hatch, doors, etc).....

To be consistent with your initial wish list, these other things should be made by companies like Penske, Ohlins, Kaaz, DSS .... IMHO, putting that much money into parts for a DSM is laughable.

 

[shampoo]

Starting with a bone stock car, you're talking about a Magnus crate motor, a ShepTrans...ok....then you go on about a Tilton pedal box and sequential shifter?....in a DSM?.....

Never mind that it would be an utter waste of money, I think you're on the completely wrong platform to drop that kind of coin on a car. Sell your DSM and look at a Z06, Supra, R35, .... hell, even a 350/370Z.

Other things you would need should include full suspension and brake upgrades and a roll cage...N/M, you said you "had that covered already".... OK. Other items you should address include rebuilding the rear diff, aluminum drive shaft, aftermarket axles, racing seats and other safety items, weight reduction (different hood and hatch, doors, etc).....

To be consistent with your initial wish list, these other things should be made by companies like Penske, Ohlins, Kaaz, DSS .... IMHO, putting that much money into parts for a DSM is laughable.

Why is it laughable? Because YOU wouldn't put that much money into a DSM doesn't mean someone else might not hold a DSM at a much higher value to them.

He has a goal, so offer some advice, otherwise keep your comments to yourself. That was a useless post, and so is this one that I'm posting.

To the OP, more power to you man, give her a go and see where it lands you.

Cheers

 

[importracr317]

Why is it laughable? Because YOU wouldn't put that much money into a DSM doesn't mean someone else might not hold a DSM at a much higher value to them.

So you're staying there are some real idiots out there? The ridiculousness of this post and this thread as a whole is indicative of the cluelessness of this generation of DSMers.

To the OP, there is a very clear upgrade path I would encourage you to explore. Before you look to replace the entire drivetrain, you should probably start small; boost control, fuel mods, I/E, suspension and braking upgrades, maintenance. Crawl before you walk, walk before you run. Best of luck with your car.

 

[viridionplague]

if after all your reading you still have to ask this question.. you need to do more reading.

fast + reliable + dsm = robbed bank, get a different platform

also i see that nobody has mentioned a big FMIC, motor mounts, tuning software, cams and head upgrades, or an alignment after all the suspension upgrades. ooo or a roll cage and racing seats. how about driver mod?

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

You start off asking about cheap and then get into talking about a $30k+ buildout.. I think you really need to re-evaluate your goals, budget and platform.

I just can't take this seriously, sorry.

 

[LandoAWD]

also i see that nobody has mentioned a big FMIC, motor mounts, tuning software, cams and head upgrades, or an alignment after all the suspension upgrades. ooo or a roll cage and racing seats. how about driver mod?

There's no reason to. This is a "pie in the sky" question with all the answers at his fingertips.

Teenagers...

 

[daren_p]

Lots of good info already here. Typically if your asking these kinds of questions, your not ready for a car that makes anywhere's close to that power.

You want the car to be 600+awhp, reliable & a proper all around build. I would figure $30-40K & go up from there depending on how "fancy" you want to get. Yes it can be done for cheeper, but if you want it to be reliable as well, it adds up fast. This is figuring on you doing all the work, if your paying a shop to do it, double that price.

 

[cait sith]

Guys, guys, I want to build a LeMans privateer car, but I only have 5 grand and some gum. Can you tell me how this can work?

 

[AK Maniak]

Guys, guys, I want to build a LeMans privateer car, but I only have 5 grand and some gum. Can you tell me how this can work?

You're gonna need a lot of duct tape and zip ties

 

[lowell]

Guys, guys, I want to build a LeMans privateer car, but I only have 5 grand and some gum. Can you tell me how this can work?

Next best thing: 24 Hours of Lemons - Home Page

To the OP, take your car out racing first. Autox, drag, HPDE, anything. A 600hp track car will have a high wrenching-time:track-time ratio.

Andrew Brilliant is selling a very well sorted 2G track car for $30k...

 

[JOEY A]

There is no cheap 600hp in any car.

This guy is trolling look at what he typed in his post.

 

[SpiderGST]

Im in the process of building my 600hp+ street/drag car at the moment. Let me tell you OP there is nothing cheap about it. I'm doing most of the work myself which helps with cost ALOT. Good Luck to you man and I hope you have fun doing it but take your time and do it right the first time like the saying says "If you cant afford to do it once the right way then you sure the hell cant afford to do it twice".

 

[95eclipser]

I'm going to ask this before I offer any help - do you have the funding to even be considering this extensive of a build? If yes, I will offer some support, but if not, it'll be a waste of my time. Just seeing the words "sequential gearbox" flashes 5 figure numbers in front of my eyes.

This ^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[96awd]

WTF

I just can't take this seriously, sorry.

Teenagers...

My thoughts exactly.

 

[crazytsiawd]

Why is it laughable? Because YOU wouldn't put that much money into a DSM doesn't mean someone else might not hold a DSM at a much higher value to them.

He has a goal, so offer some advice, otherwise keep your comments to yourself. That was a useless post, and so is this one that I'm posting.

To the OP, more power to you man, give her a go and see where it lands you.

Cheers

Well for starters here is why, "I'm wondering what is the cheapest and most reliable way to make a 600hp"

I got a decent laugh from this whole thread.

 

[rx7ttlm]

OK, coming from a guy that is making over 500 (engine built for about 650, but running a gt 3076hta)... I would suggest that you don't use the eclipse as a 600 hp road race / reliable car. It would be much easier to just buy an evo. Then you would have fewer teething problems. Or I can sell you my car HA HA HA HA. I am in the 30 grand club for my DSM (see build thread) and I am STILL not done with it to make it reliable AND have this much power. Hell I broke a AEM cam gear a couple months ago so she is sidelined and AEM is considered a really good cam gear. (the 5 bolt)

In all seriousness, if your stuck on the 600 number all the time. I have found that you need a bigger turbo than what you think you do to make that goal happen. So if you want to actually hit 600 on the dyno without building the shit out of it and being on the raged edge of the tune I would say get a 3586 hta. They are good for 730 hp on a well prepared car. But you will end up at the same place the rest of us are. Where your destroying drive train every other time you go to the track. I have gone through 3 trans, 3 transfer cases a diff and a buncha crap trying to make a fast car and I have 9 years of building race cars for a living (currently Jr year in Engineering). At 500+ power levels even built trans go boom, axles snap and drive shafts give up the ghost. I would say start with what the guys are saying. Learn to tune on your crappy engine (current) with dsm link or something. If you want to go big go with an AEM EMS with a AIM dash and see how it goes . But I would encourage you to try these things on an evo. A stock evo engine with the right tune can take well over 550 hp with the right support (cams, turbo, fuel etc).

 

[TurboDork]

Well thanks for all of your oh so helpful advice guys
I don't care much about money, I got inheritance and a mother that has to pay child support to me till I'm 23. So I'm golden. As for what you think I should do, I don't care. It's my car and I'll make it what I want. And if I could afford an evo, I'd get an Evo 4. My father's 8 is such a can that I don't even want to bring back those memories. So yes, my target is still 600. And if you read this a little further and think about it, maybe you could see my dream. Ya it's ambitious, but what can I say, I'm called reckless for a reason.
Crate Motor, 2.3, forged internals from crank to pistons. Fully built and ported head with iconel exhaust valves, ss intake. FMIC, sheet metal intake manifold, 70mm tb, gt35 turbo blah blah blah. But i want this car to handle too, right?
Megan coils, prothane bushings, RM sway bars, RRE strut and lower tie bars, RRE control arms (if i can find a pair), cage, seats, gutted. I'm keeping the stock body except for some blacked out lights, it's getting DSS level 2 front and rear axles and an aluminium drive shaft. Sheptrans, ikeya formula etc etc
Now, I'm asking all of you, please stop pissing in my corn flakes. Yes this car means enough to me to do all this, ya maybe in about 10 years it will get replaced. But for now, It's mine and I do what I want, not trashing on any of your cars, I admire them. How you build your car shows who you are. Thank you.

Why is it laughable? Because YOU wouldn't put that much money into a DSM doesn't mean someone else might not hold a DSM at a much higher value to them.

He has a goal, so offer some advice, otherwise keep your comments to yourself. That was a useless post, and so is this one that I'm posting.

To the OP, more power to you man, give her a go and see where it lands you.

Cheers

And i just wanna say thanks to this man, he at least doesn't judge me. God what are you all trying to be, my father? Sorry if I'm raging.

 

[LandoAWD]

Well thanks for all of your oh so helpful advice guys
I don't care much about money, I got inheritance and a mother that has to pay child support to me till I'm 23. So I'm golden. As for what you think I should do, I don't care. It's my car and I'll make it what I want.

Well, given that all the information is available, maybe you should use it. That way you can "do what you want", like putting Chinese junk coilovers on this "super build".

 

[hypergenesis]

Well, given that all the information is available, maybe you should use it. That way you can "do what you want", like putting Chinese junk coilovers on this "super build".

<3 Just what I was thinking.

Well thanks for all of your oh so helpful advice guys
I don't care much about money, I got inheritance and a mother that has to pay child support to me till I'm 23. So I'm golden. As for what you think I should do, I don't care. It's my car and I'll make it what I want. And if I could afford an evo, I'd get an Evo 4. My father's 8 is such a can that I don't even want to bring back those memories. So yes, my target is still 600. And if you read this a little further and think about it, maybe you could see my dream. Ya it's ambitious, but what can I say, I'm called reckless for a reason.
Crate Motor, 2.3, forged internals from crank to pistons. Fully built and ported head with iconel exhaust valves, ss intake. FMIC, sheet metal intake manifold, 70mm tb, gt35 turbo blah blah blah. But i want this car to handle too, right?
Megan coils, prothane bushings, RM sway bars, RRE strut and lower tie bars, RRE control arms (if i can find a pair), cage, seats, gutted. I'm keeping the stock body except for some blacked out lights, it's getting DSS level 2 front and rear axles and an aluminium drive shaft. Sheptrans, ikeya formula etc etc
Now, I'm asking all of you, please stop pissing in my corn flakes. Yes this car means enough to me to do all this, ya maybe in about 10 years it will get replaced. But for now, It's mine and I do what I want, not trashing on any of your cars, I admire them. How you build your car shows who you are. Thank you.



And i just wanna say thanks to this man, he at least doesn't judge me. God what are you all trying to be, my father? Sorry if I'm raging.

Also its not judging or making fun of. The reason we DSMers have such a great community is because its a community that is based on trial and error. Everyone can pitch in some way. Everyones giving you their honest opinion towards what you can do and how these cars perform. And I get its your car do what you want people are just giving you the most logical answer based on what you want to do.

But you do completely contradict yourself from what you said in the topic title and this last post. From everything you have listed its going to be more expensive to build that than mostly anything.