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600hp daily turbo setup help

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Right on man, despite of all the stuff I said about Fp turbos I hope you make more power then you expect.
I know I've asked you this before but since you didn't answer me the first time, I'm asking you again :) do you have a way to use a map sensor and log your drive pressure. I'm really curious to see what the pressure ratio (boost/drive pressure) is on those bolt on turbos, who knows we both might be surprised :)

I'll have to see if I have another map sensor, if I do and I can figure out how to wire it in and log it, sure.

Just for reference, we've made over 600awhp on 35psi with the FPred. I'm hoping to be mid 700's and I really have no doubts will get it. Limiting factor will be fuel. I'll start a new thread as soon as the dyno is scheduled and we'll see who gets the closest.
 
PHUNNY, while you have your turbo off, you should drill and tap your exhaust mannifold so you can rig a E-MAP sensor on there and log back-pressure next to boost. for hose you use the copper/metal bendable/flexable hose with brase fittings. this type of metal hose is easy to come by, its at any parts store and usualy comes with some autometer gauges.

off your exhaust manni run the hose about 16"s or so befor going into the map sensor. this allows alot of the hotness to die off befor entering the sensor and also allows you to mount the sensor in a safe place away from the heat
 
Sure, as long as it can be logged via dsmlink. I don't want another gauge.

I just ordered 2 GM style 4 bar sensors, one for you and one for a friend. It comes with a pig tail for it. You can wire it up in to your factory MDP sensor or any other available inputs in the link. There are 3 wires, power, ground and signal. You will have to select it in your link under MDP as omni 4 bar in ECU inputs.

Since you will have your turbo off anyways it would be a good time to do it. You will have to drill and tap your exhaust manifold somewhere next to your egt probe, I believe its 1/8" pipe tread. I will double check on that when I get home and let you know for sure. You will need some fittings to run a copper line (15" minimum) from the manifold to a coupler that will connection the copper line to a hose which will connect to the map sensor. I should have most of the stuff at home so once I get the sensor I will put together all the parts that you will need and ship it all to you. (PM me your address) If you get your car back together before you get the sensor just put a plug in that hole which you can buy at any hardware store.

Consider it my little sponsorship for you car ;)

Sorry OP, I know this thread is bit of topic :) but I know all this could be useful to you as well.
 
You can thread a blockoff plate and use your EGR port from the exhaust side, which I've done in the past.

Or you can tap the Manifold directly, like I've done this time. Bend a length of SS hard line, and have the sensor thread in on the otherside of an exhaust pulse dampener courtesy of T1R in Texas.
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The dampener is that SS Canister mounted off the thermostat housing, the sensor is underneath.
 

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heres some manni's tapped the good 'ol fashion way :)

i really like the set-up landspeed just showed with the dampener tho
 

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It fluctuates up and down about 2-3 psi, I never really cared since you don't use that for tuning anyway and being that close you can just take the average of that. You can see my log picture dsmcurse posted in the previous posts on page 4.
 
off topic or not this thread is pretty sweet for someone like me. lots of really good info in here since im trying to figure out how different housings, a/r and cm2 on different turbo's work in order to run higher compression and keep the egt's and drive pressure down. i think i said that right LOL. i wonder how long this thread will keep going
 
off topic or not this thread is pretty sweet for someone like me. lots of really good info in here since im trying to figure out how different housings, a/r and cm2 on different turbo's work in order to run higher compression and keep the egt's and drive pressure down. i think i said that right LOL. i wonder how long this thread will keep going

As long as there are questions, there will be answers :)
 
so the new current deal is PHUNNY is gonna rig his manni to log E-MAP in dsmlink? new FB black turbo? i think this is a wonderfull idea and cant wait tot see the posted results.

my prediction is 30psi boost = 28psi back-pressure....? just my prediction is all

any others brave enough to guess what its gonna be?

PHUNNY should have results posted by what? 2, maybe 3 week time frame? im willing to wait for results, i wont forget to look in and check the thread. im very curious
 
I would hazard a guess it'll be more like >2:1 drive to boost.. very close in terms of compressor dimension and capacity with a smaller turbine and comparable housing vs my s200sx with 59/81 comp wheel and 74/64 turbine when I was running the bolt on BEP housing. Both rated 67-68lbs/min on kill, and I was able to extract as much in the BEP housing.

I seem to remember drive approaching 2.5:1 by 9k @ 38psi boost, which is what spurred the switch to t3 and then t4. Really wish I could find my logs from 2009-2010

That turbo is still my favorite in all 3 flavors out of the nearly two dozen I've had in various combos and platforms.

Was spooling similar to an earlier greddy (?) Tdo6sl2 18g I had run when in bolt on form, but pulled through 8k like a cheetah on PCP when boost was in the mid 30s.

In divided t4 it came on almost as soon, but felt like it never stopped, so I had a self imposed 9250 redline. Drive ratio dropped considerably and I was able to lean out and add timing as a result.
 
I never thought when i started this simple thread that it would turn into something this big LOL.
 
If I was building a purely street car with a 2.0 again, it would probably be in the ball park of an HX40/S200sx/FP Black/GT35R.. but after running in the T3 and T4 divided housings, I'm not sure I would go back to bolt-on.

This one may be my last DSM before stepping up to a 87-93 Mustang on a big single, like 101mm T6 and 4xx" V8, tubbed for a big tire jamming a Lenco gearbox.
 
I can respect that. When I move on from the DSM platform I'm wantin to go 6cylinder. RWD for surem V6 or inline 6? Not sure yet?

But check this out, here's one that will rattle your brain

Mitsubishi "6G63tt"

What if our beloved 6bolt 4G63 just had an extra two jugs added to the end of it? Imagine everything the same but inline6 instead of inline4!

If mitsubishi woulda built , oh, say the 3000GT to be inline six and traction sensitive four wheel drive like a skyline than that woulda been the ULTIMATE machine! Twin turbo woulda whooped a 2JZ ass.
With the size of our head ports and our bores we woulda had a massize 3.0 inline six that woulda killed any RB26 or 2JZ!


To bad that engine is just a pipe-dream wish....
 
I can respect that. When I move on from the DSM platform I'm wantin to go 6cylinder. RWD for surem V6 or inline 6? Not sure yet?

But check this out, here's one that will rattle your brain

Mitsubishi "6G63tt"

What if our beloved 6bolt 4G63 just had an extra two jugs added to the end of it? Imagine everything the same but inline6 instead of inline4!

If mitsubishi woulda built , oh, say the 3000GT to be inline six and traction sensitive four wheel drive like a skyline than that woulda been the ULTIMATE machine! Twin turbo woulda whooped a 2JZ ass.
With the size of our head ports and our bores we woulda had a massize 3.0 inline six that woulda killed any RB26 or 2JZ!


To bad that engine is just a pipe-dream wish....


The 2jz and 4g63 have striking similarities...
 
The 2jz and 4g63 have striking similarities...

True, but it takes a lot to get a 2jz to make power past 8000 rpms :) there is a guy here in town that has a nice white supra, it made 754 HP at 6000 rpms and drops to 700 HP by 6700 rpms. It goes from 250 HP at 4000 rpms to 680 HP at 5000 rpms, can you imagine driving that thing being only RWD :)

My guess on phunny's set up at 25 psi of boost he will see around 25-30 psi of drive pressure maybe lower. When you get up in to 30s that's when I think that housing is going to fight back a bit. At 35 psi of boost he will probably see 40+ psi of drive pressure. He might max out that 4 bar map sensor :) I guess we will see.
 
BWM engine would get its ass handed to it by a honda vtec. That paticular inline6 ain't in the same leauge as RB26 or 2JZ
You made some good statements up until this point. Where do you come from with info backing up this statement? The stock pistons on an E36 M3 can easily handle over 500whp at 18 Psi max what stock piston honda does that? M3 With pistons makes power like a built supra or built skyline! But this only creates another off topic subject. So lets not get ridiculous now!
 
True, but it takes a lot to get a 2jz to make power past 8000 rpms :) there is a guy here in town that has a nice white supra, it made 754 HP at 6000 rpms and drops to 700 HP by 6700 rpms. It goes from 250 HP at 4000 rpms to 680 HP at 5000 rpms, can you imagine driving that thing being only RWD :)

My guess on phunny's set up at 25 psi of boost he will see around 25-30 psi of drive pressure maybe lower. When you get up in to 30s that's when I think that housing is going to fight back a bit. At 35 psi of boost he will probably see 40+ psi of drive pressure. He might max out that 4 bar map sensor :) I guess we will see.

Well, the 2JZ, like any motor not limited by an inherent head flow issue.. just needs a cam and complimentary intake/exhaust manifolds coupled with a turbo that can service a high VE 3.0 past 8k in order to make power past 8k. Because you know a guy who's setup is falling off at 8k does not mean all 2JZ's do that. :)

From what I recall it was almost immediately after 30psi where drive and boost started to diverge even faster on my bolt on S200sx. I don't think I ever saw less than 1.5:1 drive/boost ratio, and started to run beyond 2.5:1 when boost got over 35psi.

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Let's steer this back towards 4G63's shall we? I think I take some of the blame for the threadjack to other platforms LOL
 
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