6 bolt oil squirter delete

[NWHTanK]

I'm passing this on . After researching the size of the bolt needed and going to bolt stores, with nothing available, I had returned to the net search and found this. A company named Racetronix, the part number. FIT-PLGM1212. Again this is for a 6bolt.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Do you worry about excessive oil pressure or have a way to deal with that?
Is there a reason for the delete of a cooling device and lubricant for a turbo motor?

 

[NWHTanK]

I'm using a FFWD rotating assembly. Knifed edge crank , aluminum rods, and wiesco pistons. The crank and rods have a oil shed coating while the pistons have a ceramic? Coating. FFWD recommended a non turbo block, or deleting the squirters to reduce oil aeration and to reduce heat soak. I'm also not running balance shafts. To deal with oil pressure I will be using this remote ofh housing from fty racing. It will allow me to relocate and use a bigger oil filter , and also install a external oil pressure regulator. All this gets plumbed between the motor and oil cooler.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I like it!!!!!
Keep us up to date on progress and performance !

 

[NWHTanK]

Well I do have a build thread. But haven't added much . Just been buying parts for over 5 years. Lol

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

You are one of the closest members to me map wise. I am in the southeast corner of KS.

 

[NWHTanK]

Grass hopper there are more of us closer to you than you realize....

 

[donniekak]

Do you worry about excessive oil pressure or have a way to deal with that?
Is there a reason for the delete of a cooling device and lubricant for a turbo motor?

The race engines I do this mod on usually have really large bearing clearances. Some as much as .0035”-.004”. Oil pressure is still 80 psi under boost.


This mod limits oil aeration

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Mains? Rods? Or both @donniekak ?
Just for reference.
Aluminum rod?
Thanks, Marty.

 

[NWHTanK]

Well on my rotating assembly, the rods bearings are already done just needs a recheck. The instructions came with different tolerances than the typical rebuild, probably because of the lack of squirters and aluminum rods.

I have some ears to shave off (deleting alt mount) and holes to put in the block (putting 2 - AN10 ports on the rear balance area of the block) clean up and so on before it gets sent out to the machinist. The mains and ring gap will, deck, hone and align hone (billet caps and girdle) will be handled by my machine shop when ever I drop the parts off.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Very nice! I'll try to keep an eye on your build.

 

[jed344]

The motors I have built it has depended on goals and parts used. On all 7 bolts we delete them witch requires tapping the feeds and plugging them off the mains. My rods have a small machined grove on them to help the oil squirt up towards piston as well. Whalen is or was doing this as well. With the 7 bolts at least it steals oil from the mains and if the check valve in them sticks open it can starve the mains for oil.

 

[donniekak]

Mains? Rods? Or both @donniekak ?
Just for reference.
Aluminum rod?
Thanks, Marty.

Both, but it seems like the mains need opened up the most. Somewhere around 1,000 hp the block and crank start to move a lot. More space prevents actual contact.
And yes, all the real race engines I do have aluminum rods. Street/strip engines are the hardest combos to get 100% perfect for the application, lots of compromises.


We’ve had a stock block/crank up to 180mph in the 1/4.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Thanks Donnie, just putting that info into my hip pocket and appreciate you sharing!

 

[We're on Boost]

external oil pressure regulator

Which oil pressure regulator are you using, or planning?
And what psi would you limit the oil pressure to?

 

[NWHTanK]

Peterson oil pressure regulator , Fty remote filter relocation mount, improved racing remote filter with thermostat and a air cooler with temp sensor and fan.

 

[We're on Boost]

Peterson oil pressure regulator

I've noticed Summit Racing sells those. You haven't been using it yet though right? Aren't you still kind of recovering from stuff lost in the TMZ fire?

 

[NWHTanK]

Yes. I've been exploring diffrent driveline alternatives for the car because I probably won't get back what I've got vested before the fire. So im using the most that I have parts wise and and going mid engine rwd. Trans is a 1g awd that will be converted to PPG with a spool center diff , locking front diff, output shaft delete, and other upgrades. By deleting a rear diff, a set of axles, a drive shaft, and tcase . Will help remove some weight and get rid of parts that need built. A couple weeks ago the carbon fiber parts showed up. Today a cnc plasma cutter should be showing . So hopefully this winter I will get back on the build band wagon again.

 

[We're on Boost]

That sounds awesome!
By mid engine, I suppose you mean the engine will be basically where the back seat is in the stock car, still transverse, and the front diff of the 1g awd trans will run the axles to the rear wheels?
I always thought our front diffs were not very strong because they don't need to be. The more power you have and the more tire you have, the more there is weight "transfer" to the rear under acceleration, so the rear takes most of the torque. I'd be interested in your thoughts about how the front diff will hold up.
A locking front diff, would that be like a ratchet locker, or does it mean it would just be locked solid all the time, like what the spool does in the center diff?
I once drove an old (late 1950's) Alfa Romeo that had the differential totally locked. It wasn't that bad. It didn't have very sticky tires on it though. And it was a "live" rear axle car, so no CV joints on the rear axle.
Anyway, hope it goes forward very well and I'll be sure to check in about it.
And if I do decide to use a Peterson oil pressure relief valve, I'll probably have it going before you do!

 

[NWHTanK]

Sorry front lsd. Some of the stuff that was lost in the fire was evo stuff like a evo ralliart clutch type front diff. Some people use awd transmissions since you have more gear options and it's stronger than a fwd trans. U can weld the center diff or go spool.

 

[NWHTanK]

Thier was a guy on you tube that did a simular swap to a 1g gst. He moved the drive line to the back of the car. I think Giguim is his utube handle.

 

[We're on Boost]

Ok thanks!