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500-600hp clutch suggestions??

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Usually people who look at a twin disk setup for their cars are not worried about mileage really. They buy the clutch for the performance aspect of it. It also depends on which disk setup you use. If you use the composite street disks vs. metal disks the life will be longer but you won't be able to hold as much power as with the metal disks. I would say don't look past 5,000 miles unless it's a tilton carbon/carbon. Twin disk clutchs are made for race cars, not street cars. So when purchasing one you should look at it from a racers stand point, not "how many trips to blockbuster will this get me".
 
dsm dork said:
All depends on what disks you decide to use with it. Atleast dealing with the PTT clutch. I would look into a PTT clutch before I would a Devo. It also depends on your driving style.

And why would you recomend PTT over Devo? Don't make claims or recomendations with out backing them up with a valid reason why.
:notgood:
 
Yeah no kidding man, you are ruining this thread.

Can some of the guys running this clutch please jump back in here and answer some of the questions that were asked. :thumb:
 
Lunch_Box said:
And why would you recomend PTT over Devo? Don't make claims or recomendations with out backing them up with a valid reason why.
:notgood:

Do you even know who the owner and maker of PTT clutchs is? Steve Ford. If you know anything about QM, he put them on the map. Why not take a little lookey at this link. Plus I have also ran a PTT clutch and the clutch is top notch, costs cheaper then the Devo clutch and customer service is #1. You do know that Devo goes to Steve at PTT for their flywheels don't you? When I had to switch out my clutch disks in my setup I sent my whole clutch out and had it back to me in 3 business days and they gave me free labor and also discounts on replacement parts I needed. It's my personal OPINION from personal experiences.

http://powertraintech.com/Files/About.html

thegchild04 said:
miss information, please disregard. I motion to ban DSM DORK, all in favor say I:nono:

Really? Why would you say that? What do you know? Have you ever driven a twin disk clutch car before or even owned one? I use to have a PTT twin disk bronze metalic clutch and I killed it in under a thousand miles with a mid 500whp car. One local to me who runs low tens and puts down over 600+whp has put over 2500 miles on his clutch with the same disk setup and he hasn't even used half the life of the clutch yet.

Mileage on a twin disk clutch is measured on the drivers driving techniques and which disk setup you use. Go ask any RACER who has a twin disk clutch and ask him how many MILES he gets out of his twin disk setup. He will laugh at you and say I got XXX PASSES out of it. They are not meant for daily street driving. YOU CAN but that's not what they are MADE FOR.

Why is it the people with NO twin disk clutch experience are saying my information is wrong? How would you know if you have no experience?:boring:
 
dsm dork said:
It also depends on your driving style.

ROFL You know this much, and think your are a perfect driver, so it must be this bad for everyone.

dsm dork said:
Usually people who look at a twin disk setup for their cars are not worried about mileage really.

I would say don't look past 5,000 miles unless it's a tilton carbon/carbon. Twin disk clutchs are made for race cars, not street cars.

REALLY? WTF

dsm dork said:
Why is it the people with NO twin disk clutch experience are saying my information is wrong? How would you know if you have no experience?:boring:

Exactly! The pot just called the kettle black! Why are you telling people misleading info?:mad:

There has always got to be that guy that thinks he knows more or just cant stand the idea that they are not giving the info.

Any one reading this thread that is REALLY interested in knowing the TRUTH about these clutches from some who HAS first hand experience... Please go to the beginning and read through all of the killer reviews on how good and long lifed the clutch REALLY is.

Rolling my eyes and shrugging my shoulders,

Jake
 
topstreet said:
I am not 100% about this But I believe the only person currently using the line-lock with the launch instead of an e-brake is Shep.

I am going to continue to use the e-brake untill given reason to do otherwise.
A local guy around here runs a line lock on his car. (holds the 18g record) Anyway he loves it. He showed me the setup and it is extremely simple and works very well.
 
You know, since I said that... I found out a friend of mine with a 10.1 gvr4 is using one of those. Does the guy by you have one that looks like a big ebrake?
 
topstreet said:
You know, since I said that... I found out a friend of mine with a 10.1 gvr4 is using one of those. Does the guy by you have one that looks like a big ebrake?
not sure what you mean?

His is installed in the front brake line because they are the strongest. Its pretty much how someone in this post explained it.
 
LOL! Sorry... I was getting pretty tired last night. I was just wondering how your friends was setup.
:thumb:

Jake
 
topstreet said:
LOL! Sorry... I was getting pretty tired last night. I was just wondering how your friends was setup.
:thumb:

Jake
well obviously the line lock itself. He has a momo steering wheel. So instead of being a l33t ricer and using the buttons for naaaawwwwsss ROFL he uses one for the line lock and the other for a horn maybe.

P.s. I will be filling your p.m. box up when I am ready for this clutch ROFL :thumb:
 
wishihadatalon said:
well obviously the line lock itself. He has a momo steering wheel. So instead of being a l33t ricer and using the buttons for naaaawwwwsss ROFL he uses one for the line lock and the other for a horn maybe.

P.s. I will be filling your p.m. box up when I am ready for this clutch ROFL :thumb:

Hit the PM box all you want!:thumb:

Just make sure you dont hit the wrong button on the wheel right!ROFL
 
My mechanic and buddy are going in on a group buy for a Quartermaster clutch and flywheel assembly. He was saying he could get it for like $800-$900 a piece for the whole set up. His brother has one and he shifts at 8000rpm never releasing the gas or nothing. They said you can shift at any RPM as hard as you want, with as much load as you want. HE was telling me how the clutch is smaller and has less rotational mass which makes it easier to shift with it. I would also get this clutch.
 
i has been emailing Devo(QM) for the clutch but nobody respond.. maybe they don't want to commit with international order. Is there anybody can help me or any other shop that offer this particular clutch?
 
I've got another question on this clutch. People say its got light pedal feel. Stock to almost lighter than stock feel.

Now I'm used to having a pedal give me a fight back when I push down on it. With it now going to be much lighter its going to be weird. I dont like the feeling of having to lift my foot up to let the clutch out, I like the pedal wanting to do that for me.

With this clutch that wont happen, is there a way I can add springs to the clutch assembly to give more resistance to my foot ? This way only the pedal assembly will be wanting to come back up.

My idea is to make the pedal feel tough, but with this clutch not pushing all the pressure on the slave and master cylinder.

Hope I made that clear enough...

Sorry to quote myself, but does anybody have an opinion on this idea ?
 
wow, that noise was annoying. I don't think I could live with it in my daily driven galant.
 
Is that really how loud these things are ?
 
well obviously the line lock itself. He has a momo steering wheel. So instead of being a l33t ricer and using the buttons for naaaawwwwsss ROFL he uses one for the line lock and the other for a horn maybe.

P.s. I will be filling your p.m. box up when I am ready for this clutch ROFL :thumb:

It's a grant wheel that I had to drill the hole where I wanted and mounted the button at my thumb. Before the button I used the high beam switch,pulling back with my left hand middle finger.

The lock is in the front brake line off the master cylinder( if I remember correctly) and due to the proportioning valve it locks one front wheel and the opposite rear wheel.
It works great in heads up/ pro tree racing because you can bump the car into staging in a controlled way plus launch at a release of a button. Great for reaction times.:thumb:

Shep uses a trick lever actuated lock that utilizes a tilton master cylinder assembly that lock all four without having the pump the brakes manually.
Thats just my guess though -
 
It's a grant wheel that I had to drill the hole where I wanted and mounted the button at my thumb. Before the button I used the high beam switch,pulling back with my left hand middle finger.

The lock is in the front brake line off the master cylinder( if I remember correctly) and due to the proportioning valve it locks one front wheel and the opposite rear wheel.
It works great in heads up/ pro tree racing because you can bump the car into staging in a controlled way plus launch at a release of a button. Great for reaction times.:thumb:

Shep uses a trick lever actuated lock that utilizes a tilton master cylinder assembly that lock all four without having the pump the brakes manually.
Thats just my guess though -

You are so leet Angelo :thumb: Anyway to lock just the fronts? We all know that dsm rear brakes suck :notgood:
 
Is there a less noisy version of the Devo Tuning Clutch ? That is a very loud clutch.
 
They will squeel alittle bit during break in and are just chattery after that. I dont hear much over the exhaust and the fuel pumps though...

I definitly would get discovered at a "stock appearing" class. If they made you start it up, and you pushed the clutch in.

Most of the time, it sounds like a bad throw out bearing or something. I cant complain.

Jake
 
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