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500-600hp clutch suggestions??

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nikkeebabee

15+ Year Contributor
253
1
Jul 21, 2004
Rochester, New_York
Well, I'm swapping over to a built 6 bolt in my 2g and planning for 500-600 to the wheels, I plan to have this car for a weekend toy and it will see the street and the strip.

I already bought the ACT chromoly flywheel, but im wondering what clutch to use thats gonna stand up to the abuse.

I currently have a sbr 3500 with only 6k on it and that was when the car was stock. I bolted on a 50 trim tuned and then the rods broke.so no more 7 bolt. I just dont think the 3500 even those its still in awesome shape is going to be able to withstand the harsh abuse the car will see.

what do you suggest?
 
DEVO Tuning Twin-Disc Clutch & Flywheel Assembly

Weighs only 15.5 lbs total! (A single-disc with light-weight flywheel weighs in at over 30 lbs) Designed for DEVO TUNING, built by QuarterMaster, tested and heavily used by SSCA Rally EVOs, and the same clutch used in our own 700+ WHP drag car. This is one of the best clutches in the world and for any 4G63. Unbelievable disengagement, which allows for lightning-fast shifting, easy pedal effort and super holding power. Over 200 passes on our drag car without any transmission or clutch failures.



http://www.devotuning.com/drivetrain.html

the crazy clutch set-up!
 
I would agree with everything that you said! Awesome description!

I would like to add: The slipablity it unreal. They handle the heat and allow the "off the line" stress needed to get you going fast.

Also, they are very cheap and easy to rebuild! A replacement set of discs is under $200 depending where you get them.

I have talked with Adam several times, and that guy is funny. You will see what I mean if you get him on the phone. Otherwise, Mike overthere, is on the ball and gets the parts to you as soon as the suppliers allow him. :thumb:

I am making 600lbs/trq and nearly 900whp with no complaints. This is an industry improvement the DSM community has been waiting for!

Jake Hanhardt
 
There is also the ACT 2900, Jake M. uses it...or was using it...not sure if he is using anything different, but he used it last season, and he had 600+hp, and it was street driven, also the DEVO clutch is nice too, but I dont see the point of it unless you are making rediculious power like Jake (topstreet) is. I should hope to be hitting the 500 mark when I am finished...and thjat is on pump, and spraying meth into the TB, and I will be going with an ACT 2900. So your choices are at the ACT 2900 (proven to be fine for those power levels by evli_eagle), or the DEVO Tuning clutch by Quatermaster ( proven for 900hp by Jake H. (topstreet))

Dustin
 
fourreGsixty3 said:
There is also the ACT 2900, Jake M. uses it...or was using it...not sure if he is using anything different, but he used it last season, and he had 600+hp, and it was street driven, also the DEVO clutch is nice too, but I dont see the point of it unless you are making rediculious power like Jake (topstreet) is. I should hope to be hitting the 500 mark when I am finished...and thjat is on pump, and spraying meth into the TB, and I will be going with an ACT 2900. So your choices are at the ACT 2900 (proven to be fine for those power levels by evli_eagle), or the DEVO Tuning clutch by Quatermaster ( proven for 900hp by Jake H. (topstreet))

Dustin


Yeah I did use the 2900lb ACT for awhile, but as soon as I put the hoosier quick time pro slicks on it killed the clutch on the 1st pass down the track with the slicks. I since then went to the Quartermaster twin disc clutch from devo tuning, best clutch I have ever owned hands down.
 
I have heard that about the act 2900 before....as soon as the slick get on it its done...super95awd had the same problem and went to a twin disc....

the twin disc looks like a great set up but just how streetable is it? how harsh is it on the drivetrain parts.....

I'm only looking to run into the tens not single digits....

I was also reading about the sbr 4500 clutch which is suppose to hold 400-600
 
If you want 10s with FWD you wil be needing slicks, or you can have fun trying to get out of the hole on street tires. Oh wow Jake I didnt realize that the ACT was toasted after 1 pass with the slicks on...looks like I might go with the DEVO twin-clutch since I will be wanting to run a set of 24.5x8.5x15 Hossier's so I can get some traction at the track.

Dustin
 
fourreGsixty3 said:
I will be wanting to run a set of 24.5x8.5x15 Hossier's so I can get some traction at the track.

Dustin

Just a suggestion... Take a look at the 26" tall tires.

Otherwise, its funny you bring up the idea of a street driven setup with the QM twin. I just got done(a couple hrs ago) putting one in a daily driven 16g powered car. Overkill??? Maybe considering the clutches max potential. Considering that he wanted the lightweight assembly that is very easily rebuilt and cost effective, its a very good option. With a few times around the block, he had no worries. In fact, he mentioned how the engagement has alittle more harsh, but a much lighter pedal then what he had.

I have a very good friend that owns a Daily 11.0 @ 133 2G. This guy is hard on his drivetrain. He was really happy about the 12k miles he got on his south bend disc. Everything else has either slipped away or blown out springs, cracked, lost pressure plate teeth, ect... He has been driving the QM twin for a while now and loves it.

All and all reliability, consitansy, rebuild cost, HEAT TOLERANCE, weight, quality... ITS GOT IT!

On the down side: It is a noisey SOB! If you have any drivetrain vibration, this clutch will find it. It sounds like a squeeling belt when getting going. Initial costs are more than a standard clutch combo.

If you can tolerate these aspects of it, you should get it.

I hope this info helps!

Jake H
 
Another bonus for the Devo twin disk is it's price, when compared to other twins disks it is one of the cheapest but still works well. I mean you could always go with a Tilton carbon/carbon twin disk for $4000.
 
I have the QM twin disc and i deliver pizzas. The clutch is very grabby but it is streetable.
 
People need to define "streetable" Streetable to me and streetable to another could be 2 different worlds. Is it like driving a stock evo or a lexus? No, not by any means. Can the twin disc be street driven, of course it can. If you don't mind the noisy clutch and don't mind re learning how to use the clutch, then it's no big deal. I drive my car every singal day. lately I have been driving it around 80 miles a day hauling car parts around or whatever the case may be.

The 1st couple of days having this clutch I killed it at stop lights, but after about a week I don't even think about it, it just became a new driving habbit. The clutch is extremely easy to get used to and will withstand any abuse you put it through. The pedal pressure is extremely light so it is easy to use during stop and go traffic. You just need to get the idea out of your head that if you slip the clutch too much it will burn it up. You can slip this clutch all damn day and the clutch just does not care.

Now as far as breaking driveline parts, that is one of the best things about a twin disc clutch, it saves drivetrain parts, alot easier on the syncros as you don't have 30 billion lbs of pressure plate pressure to work with. Your using more of the clutch to shift then the syncros as you would on a ACT clutch. I will say this though, after buying this clutch I will NEVER put a ACT clutch back in the car ever again. I had no idea my tranny can shift as well as it does with this clutch. It just works, simple as that.

People complain about the price of the clutch, well lets step back and look at how much you are just spending in the long run.

ACT clutch on a 600hp car= 20-30 passes with hard launching then the disc is smoked, $110 for a new disc
ACT clutch on a 600hp car= syncro wear accelaration, drivetrain parts ect ect. =$$$

Quartermaster twin disc on a 600hp car = 50-60passes with hard launching $150 for new disc
Quartermaster twin disc on a 600hp car= syncro wear is minimal, and the clutch is designed to slip without burning it up at all. You can pre load this clutch on the line using the e-brake to tighten up the drivetrain parts, axles, driveshaft, t-case ect. = ALOT less drivetrain breakage, I have not broke one singal drivetrain part on my car with the twin disc clutch. I have driven it every singal day about 60-80 miles a day, all the hard passes on the street and several low 10 sec passes, and 3 9sec passes without any problems at all.

Bottom line, if you want a clutch that is going to last longer, shift faster, and alot let drivetrain breakage, then the twin disc clutch is the only way to go. I dunno about you guys but I really hated dealing with the ACT clutch being incosistent, and sliping from time to time at the tracks and costing me a race. The twin disc has never failed me. I can slip the holy hell out of the clutch and not even think twice about it. The clutch is the last thing on my mind anymore.
 
GVR4592 said:
Jake weren't you using an SBR disc with the ACT pressure plate?

Yeah last season I did, that one didn't last anymore then 20 passes, and that was on street tires not hooking up for nothing. I got alittle more out of the ACT street disc, but not very much, the ACT street disc combined with 6700rpm 2step and 100shot and the Hoosiers out of the hole just did not work, even with the 2900lb plate, as soon as the nitrous would hit it would just go straight to the rev limiter, slam 2nd gear and rev limiter again.

With the twin disc I am able to launch at 7200rpm 2step with 15lbs and 100shot out of the hole without a hickup. Holds every last little bit. If anything it just spins the hell out of the hoosiers through 1st and alittle in 2nd gear, so that should tell you how well the twin disc holds up.:thumb:
 
evil_eagle said:
Yeah last season I did, that one didn't last anymore then 20 passes, and that was on street tires not hooking up for nothing. I got alittle more out of the ACT street disc, but not very much, the ACT street disc combined with 6700rpm 2step and 100shot and the Hoosiers out of the hole just did not work, even with the 2900lb plate, as soon as the nitrous would hit it would just go straight to the rev limiter, slam 2nd gear and rev limiter again.

With the twin disc I am able to launch at 7200rpm 2step with 15lbs and 100shot out of the hole without a hickup. Holds every last little bit. If anything it just spins the hell out of the hoosiers through 1st and alittle in 2nd gear, so that should tell you how well the twin disc holds up.:thumb:

Are you running the standard Quartermaster twin disc setup from devotuning?
 
raped said:
Are you running the standard Quartermaster twin disc setup from devotuning?


There is only one Quartermaster twin disc clutch for our cars that I know of, but yes it is from Devo tuning.
The clutch comes with these things

Steal flywheel
clutch assem. (pressure plate, floater plates, discs, hardware)
new flywheel bolts
new TOB
new modified clutch fork

All of that for $1100.00

Not bad considering what you get.
 
i have the standard QM setup. I know Powertrain technologies offers discs in different thicknesses, different disc materials and other options. For some reason i thought that there was an option for a clutch from either powertrain or quartermaster that has the ability to hold around 800 ft-lbs of torque.
 
raped said:
i have the standard QM setup. I know Powertrain technologies offers discs in different thicknesses, different disc materials and other options. For some reason i thought that there was an option for a clutch from either powertrain or quartermaster that has the ability to hold around 800 ft-lbs of torque.


I see what your saying, I thought you meant the clutch from devo, as far as I know Devo sells only one quartermaster twin disc with the bronse disc.
 
The sintered bronze is the way to go. This is a big part of why that clutch holds the heat, torque and long life. You can get Tilton 7.25" discs in a different material but, cost and durability are lost because of a small gain in streetability.

Otherwise, Jake M you pretty much put an end to this topic. :p Great info man!
 
I'm glad I made this thread I got a ton of good info and my decision is definatly made to go with the devotuning twin disc....

Anyone wanna buy a New act flywheel...LOL

As far as install is there anything different then a normal clutch?

Topstreet- How many launches have you put on the clutch?

Also how are you guess launching this compared to a noraml slip? are you just dumping or what?
 
I'm running the exedy twin disk and I have no complaints about it. At first I hated it but now I love it since I know how do drive. Normally this is the most expensive clutch on the market but I got a deal on it for 1100 bucks! Pedal pressure is close to stock and can be slipped but it squeels sometimes if you dont rev it high enough but other than that its the best clutch Ive ever driven!!
 
Here is a question that should be answered in this thread pertaining to a more expensive twin disc setup for guys like me that have a very low mile 7-Bolt.

Is it possible to change out the flywheels in order to adapt the twin disc you bought to run on a 6-Bolt when you reach that point in your building progression? Maybe I should call Devo about it...

That's the only reason why I was holding out on it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
nikkeebabee said:
As far as install is there anything different then a normal clutch?

Topstreet- How many launches have you put on the clutch?

Also how are you guess launching this compared to a noraml slip? are you just dumping or what?

Use locktite on the flywheel bolts, and lock washers on the clutch bolts. Torque the flywheel to 100ft/lbs. and the clutch to 20ft/lbs.

NO DUMPING! Preload, slip, and go! Just like Jake M was discribing. If you have a 2step, that makes this event easier.


thegchild04 said:
Is it possible to change out the flywheels in order to adapt the twin disc you bought to run on a 6-Bolt when you reach that point in your building progression? Maybe I should call Devo about it...

That’s the only reason why I was holding out on it.

7 bolt AWD and 6 bolt AWD 1st and 2nd Gen are the same, besides the number of holes. I have currently installed these into 1G 7bolts, 2G 7bolts, 1G 6bolts. The new flywheel (outside of kit cost) is $325.00 from DEVO.

So down the road this is the only part you would have to change. Just like if you did the 6bolt swap normally.

BTW: This would be an awesome clutch for the 7bolt users to look into because of the very light pedal. In turn, less thrust bearing abuse.

Jake H
 
http://www.jhracing.net/Ooops.html

So Jake H. are putting the same clutch back in? Was the driveline noise you mentioned like a dog box constant type or just when getting started? Did you put in a clutch stop? Just gathering info seeing as my clutch is trying to die on me and we all got money to burn....right.

Bob
 
Any of you guys using a line-lock to preload instead of the e-brake? I could even see setting up a switch on the clutch pedal to automatically release the line lock when you release the clutch.

I tried to launch my buddy's car at the track once, used to driving a street disc car and he had a 4 puck, welded diff. I tried the ebrake preload so I wouldn't snap something, ending up launching with the e-brake still up :LOL:. Didn't quite get the timing down on the first try.
 
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