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$50 Paint Job [merged]

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Nice but what color are you painting over? You might be putting to much on... the first couple coats should still be transparent...especially with a color like red. If thats the case your paint will take foreve to *fully* cure.. know what I mean? It may be dry to the touch, but underneth and when you buff, it will smear and leave swirls. Now this is not from experience but its just what I read looking over all the info from the internet. anyways the key is THIN coats! Again so I have read. Goodluck everyone and I got the garage cleared and set up all I can say is badass.

He's painting over gray primer. So yeah... definitely too thick on the paint. That will be a problem down the road from what I've been reading and my own experience with other paints.

What's the mixing ratio? I read 2:1 water to Oil, but I thought someone said that wasn't right.

I hope that was just a slip-up. You don't use water you use mineral oil to cut the oil-based paint. The mix varies based on color according to the mopar thread. You want it just a little thicker than water. I'll experiment with the aluminum color and get back to you all on the mix ratio.
 
Truthfully if this works out good someone should repost the Step by step with Before and after and see if we can get it a stciky :D
 
He's painting over gray primer. So yeah... definitely too thick on the paint. That will be a problem down the road from what I've been reading and my own experience with other paints.

Crap, What kinda of problems might I experience? I definiatly have been taking my time, so I want to make sure I do this right the first time. at first I thought it was too thick so I went to a mixture of 2 parts mineral oil to 1 part paint. It was alot more clear/ thin like you had mentioned. I painted 1/2 of a fender, after an hour, there were still a million bubbles...maybe its the application tool I'm using, can someone post what they are using?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=188855-159-LR105-3&lpage=none

It says its a foam roller on the package....I am starting to think the roller is the issue..
 
after all my bodywork i used 2 coats of rustoleum black auto primer, then I scuffed it with 120 grit and then started with a coat of the gloss black mixed to a 2:1 ratio of paint to mineral spirits which was to thick and did'nt lay evenly. My second coat was mixed to a 1:1 ratio which turned out better. The amount of bubbles is also controlable on how fast you push the roller over the surface. If you go to fast more bubbles apear.

I used the white foam rollers from lowes. They are 6" long 1" thick.
 

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Go slower and try lightly rolling back over the bubbles after a minute to pop them. That is what everyone was recommending.


... sigh. I really want to get started on this. Darn school and work sucking up all my time...


Edit: oh... the problem you'll likely have is the paint will never really cure properly. I have some spots on my interior that get soft and a little sticky whenever it gets hot from sitting in the sun all day. That is after 2-3 years of "cure" time. I just put it on too thick so it didn't dry right. Now I need to get a new dash at some point.

So I'd say strip off the paint you have on there now while it is fairly easy and start fresh.
 
Go slower and try lightly rolling back over the bubbles after a minute to pop them. That is what everyone was recommending.


... sigh. I really want to get started on this. Darn school and work sucking up all my time...


Edit: oh... the problem you'll likely have is the paint will never really cure properly. I have some spots on my interior that get soft and a little sticky whenever it gets hot from sitting in the sun all day. That is after 2-3 years of "cure" time. I just put it on too thick so it didn't dry right. Now I need to get a new dash at some point.

So I'd say strip off the paint you have on there now while it is fairly easy and start fresh.

I tried the roll out the bubbles a few min after...I think it must be the speed, I'll try going REALLY slow.....

and

Crap...stripping paint = sucky.....:notgood:...but, I'd rather do it right....so thanks for the input!
 
tempature may have something to do with it also, what is it were your painting? On the back of the can mine states "do not apply in temp. below 50 degrees". Also instead of stripping off the old paint just sand it down. If you don't get all of the stripping agent off it will f-up your paint. I never liked stripping unless your going down to bear metal and starting all over again. Those are the same rollers I'm using too.
 
Alright well having a garage is the greatest thing in the world, but anyways I got started after class today and got pretty far.

I got the front end off and then pulled the car out and washed it with dishwashing degreasing soap, then dried it. Yanked the spoiler, then sanded the entire car with 220 grit sand paper. Pulled the car out and washed it the same way with the same stuff as the first time and got it completly grease/grit/dust free then dried it and moved back in the garage. After waiting about an hour far anywater I missed to dry, I went over it with a terry cloth and just cleaned the surface of any dust that may have landed, then taped up the window trim and wiped it down one last time.

Then I applied the first coat and thats where Im at now...Heres the pics from today..

Those last pics are final and drying..thats what I mean by thin coats..ok I gotta get outa here its firday tty you guys tomorrow
 

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hmmm very interesting...im really going to consider doing this to the 95 gst that i just picked up...the car needs new paint and my girl wants it white instead of black(current color)
-wes
 
Unless those paints require a specific temp... I wont be doing this till next summer... I'll use this time to build the motor and get the CF Hood and Hatch and wheels. And then when she's running and ready, I'll go out and get some materials and paint her...
 
This gets better and better with more pictures. Glad y'all are taking initiave and doing it. I have to wait till thursday to paint because I get paid then. Guess in the mean time I can start prepping my test bumper.
 
Just to add alittle more info, I wet sanded my hood this morning for my final coats and instead of waiting a whole day for the paint to dry like I had been doing I hit the first coat with my heat gun right after for about 30 minutes. It made it tacky and allowed me to lay on 2 more thin coats today instead of waiting another day. I should be able to do my final wetsand tomarrow and buff maybe the next day. Also I noticed if you load up the roller with to much paint it will form more bubbles in the paint. I just kept rolling the roller over the hood until the bubbles cleared out.
 
Heres the pics from today...I thinned the paint out even more this morning and it went on alot smoother, I think even I had to to thick, but its better now. That being said I have to sand down the rear bumper and the skirts and re-do them...I applied WAY to much the first 5 or 6 coats I did. Sucks but I want it to look good...I should go do it now but its too nice out. Anyway heres the pics...
 

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Thats not how the paint is going to look at all...it will look like anyother black paint job you see. As for to thin, I can tell you its deffinately not. After doing the rear bumper and side skirts with even full coverage each time..I can feel the paint is soft...now I dont expect anyone to go at my car with their fingernail until they get the paint to remove, but I also dont want that to be a possibility. With this method Im using now of the correct transparent coats, theres a minimal amount of paint to dry and no way to have soft paint left over under the newly aplied coats. These coats and we sanding should make it all come out very goodlooking. As you can see just between the 1st and 2nd coat the car got progressively darker I imagine buy about 6 coats it will be totally covered and then the 2 more coats after will just seal the deal.
 
What are you going to do for the door handles, and fuel door? Also are you going to do the door jams and other areas or just leave them white?

They also make spray cans when im done..what ever white is left im just goin gto hit it with a covering mist and then take car of the fine detailing after like buffing and polish..wax yada yada..
 
They also make spray cans when im done..what ever white is left im just goin gto hit it with a covering mist and then take car of the fine detailing after like buffing and polish..wax yada yada..

why dont you use the foam brush that is mentioned in the original mopar thread...i think that would be a lot better than spray canning it after youve spent all that time rolling and sanding the rest of the car...
-wes
 
AH! More updates! And are we really only limited to a few colors?
 
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