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4G67 swapped Dodge Ram 50 won't idle

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glassware

Probationary Member
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Jul 3, 2007
Laurinburg, North Carolina
As the title says I have a 1985 Dodge Ram 50 that I swapped a 4G67(couldn't find a cheap 4G63) from a 1993 Elantra. I've been having this problem ever since I got it running. It will start up fine but I have to keep giving it gas in order for it to stay running. I checked for vacuum leaks using a homemade smoke machine, found I had an exhaust but I doubt thats causing my problems. I installed a used ISC motor(tested coils) from the pull-a-part and adjusted BISS screw. Any suggestions?
 
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As the title says I have a 1985 Dodge Ram 50 that I swapped a 4G67(couldn't find a cheap 4G63) from a 1993 Elantra. I've been having this problem ever since I got it running. It will start up fine but I have to keep giving it gas in order for it to stay running. I checked for vacuum leaks using a homemade smoke machine, found I had an exhaust but I doubt thats causing my problems. I installed a used ISC motor(tested coils) from the pull-a-part and adjusted BISS screw. Any suggestions?

Eventhough you feel your exhaust leak aint the problem, start by fixing the leak, might as well get that fixed first and then go from there... Do you have the check engine light on, have you scanned the ECU for codes??? What was the running condition of the engine before the swap ??? Have you checked the fuel and ignition system ??? Did you do a full tune up before starting the engine ??? When was the last time the fuel filter change ??? Start with checking simple stuff and working your way...
 
I plan on fixing the leak next weekend, the gasket on the headers to the cat is leaking. I have an LED hooked up to the check engine pin on the ECU, it comes on when I start the engine then turns off(normal). Dont know the running condition of the engine before I got because I got it from a junkyard with 86K on it. I adjusted the timing using a timing light and adjusted the CAS while it was running. I installed new fuel pump and filter.

CAS fits between head and firewall good about half an inch clearance.
 
Got the exhaust leak fixed, the engine did idle correctly but then started to idle surge. currently going through Terrys Talon idle fix. The engine will idle then surge up then back to normal idle, it will run like like this for about 10 minutes then die.
 
Does it have spark when it dies ? Check the tps volts..When it dies will it start back up ? ..Bad gas? ..If it doesn't fire back up check for spark , gas etc...
 
It starts right back up when dies.

Well for some reason this morning it idles perfectly, I'm still running rich.
 
Back from the dead, still having the same problem. I'm in the military so my time to work on this truck has been limited. I took two weeks leave and plan on solving this problem. I got the exhaust fixed, it idles but still its running rich and timing is way off. I got a timing light and and tried adjusting the CAS but timing marks will not line up no matter which way I turn CAS, I thought the CAS may have been 180 degrees out so I flipped it around and the same problem. Can't get the timing marks to line up. Mechanical timing is good.

I also purchased a pocket logger and scanned for codes, no codes at all. Here are the readings I got

RPM 1500 MAP 2.77bar FTRL 100 ACLE 0 EGT 128
INJD 6.2% 02-F 2.50V FTRM 100 FFGO --5A-- OILT 51
KNCK 0 COOL 63.2C FTRH 100 FLG2 AFB FUEL 0.23atm
02-R 0V AIRT 19.9C FT02 100 MAP 1.81bar
TPS 16% BATT 14.3V MAFS 125HZ OILP -1.32atm

As I stated before, it does idle but its a rough high idle. Around 1300RPM, I can adjust the BISS but when I get the RPMs around 800 to 900 it dies. All vacuum have been deleted and the two ports on the TB are blocked off.

Any suggestions?
 
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I had the constant high and low idle surge when I replaced my Throttle body, It end up being the lower side of the throttle body was leaking, I replaced the lower side and block off the cooling system and it works like a champ.

Check the throttle body for leaking, or just put a block off plate to block the water and see if that fixes your problem, Also if you can't get the cas to line up, then it means your mechanical timing (marks) is not right, take a pic of the marks and post them here so we can make sure that is good and we can discard that.

Also the constant high and low idle surge can be caused by an exhaust leak.

About running reach, you can have a dead front o2 sensor, if you have a dead o2 sensor, it will not throw a sell.
 
Yea I grounded the connector and it the timing marks will not line up no matter which way I turn the CAS. About the O2 sensor, the cat that I'm using has a place for the O2 sensor on the body of the cat. So basically the O2 sensor sits inside the cat. Could the placement of the O2 sensor cause it to run rich? And the O2 sensor is new.

I checked the mechanical using the timing marks on the cam gear, each time I hand turned the engine the timing marks lined up perfectly but I check again and post pictures.

It doesn't idle surge anymore. But when I try and get it to a lower idle it starts to die, Ill recheck the throttle body.
 
Which side of the cat is the O2 sensor on?, is it in front of the cat or back?, If it's in front, then that should be fine, but if that's on the back side of the cat, then that's causing your rich mixture.

Are you using just one (front) o2 sensor or two (front and back), if you are using the rear sensor as well, where is the rear sensor located at?,
 
I would guess a 1G ECU, I'm using the ECU that comes with the 4G67 found in 92-95 Hyundai Elantras. The manual that used to wire the harness into the truck only showed one O2 sensor in the diagram. I'll recheck the exhaust tomorrow

Also do the values I posted look right? The O2 sensor was reading 2.50V
 
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