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4g63T Head Gasket Help, 7 bolt block?

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victim

Proven Member
30
6
Jul 24, 2026
seattle, Washington
Well I'm assuming I have a blown head gasket, After checking right under the back of the block under the intake more detailed I could see coolant dripping from the head, Not a huge leak but that's where its been going, I just recently did the timing belt in august but didn't replace waterpump so I'll be finally going back in and doing that, This is my first time doing a headgasket and was hoping for some advice for the process of taking it apart, What replacement parts are good and what to do while I have the head off, I'm planning to pick up some ARP Head studs already but have no clue for gaskets / any other parts I'd need. Any guides or information would be seriously appreciated.

Also not sure if i have a 7 bolt or 6 bolt block for sure, Had a friend say he assumed I was 7 Bolt
1997 Mitsu Eclipse GS-T Spyder

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I wouldnt fix anything without a leakdown test. Whatever that is, it looks old and doesnt look like coolant to me. Is there a symptom you're chasing?
I was originally told by a shop that inspected that I had a intake coolant leak, and I was noticing coolant loss, I inspected the back and did see coolant begin to drain down, I did a pressure test on my radiator yesterday and used my phone to record the back of the black, The photo doesnt do justice as much but in the youtube video you can see fluid start to leak out slightly, I was told by the same shop that there was no current headgasket issue indicated during baseline checks, They also listed the intake manifold coolant leak either being the gasket or the manifold wall
 
I was originally told by a shop that inspected that I had a intake coolant leak, and I was noticing coolant loss, I inspected the back and did see coolant begin to drain down, I did a pressure test on my radiator yesterday and used my phone to record the back of the black, The photo doesnt do justice as much but in the youtube video you can see fluid start to leak out slightly, I was told by the same shop that there was no current headgasket issue indicated during baseline checks, They also listed the intake manifold coolant leak either being the gasket or the manifold wall
There is no coolant in the intake manifold. Only the throttle body.
 
Loop the hoses to the throttle body, pressurize the coolant with the tester, place your phone where there is that white looking residue and see if there is a noticeable leak and pressure drop.

That does in a way looks like someone might have blue deviled it before selling it to you or maybe some other possible HG sealant. Can't be sure without the pressure tester if you are not getting any other symptoms such as oil mixing, misfire, white smoke, overheating, pressure build up etc.....
 
Loop the hoses to the throttle body, pressurize the coolant with the tester, place your phone where there is that white looking residue and see if there is a noticeable leak and pressure drop.

That does in a way looks like someone might have blue deviled it before selling it to you or maybe some other possible HG sealant. Can't be sure without the pressure tester if you are not getting any other symptoms such as oil mixing, misfire, white smoke, overheating, pressure build up etc.....
Do you think you could walk me through what you mean? I really have no idea what i’m completely.

Other than the pressure testing and seeing slight coolant drips down that side of the block and the mechanic report, I’ve had no other signs of it, My oil was slightly green when i did the timing but not milky, Coolant has looked fine no misfires, Or overheating, I did take it to oregon and back and when parking i noticed the heat gauge went up but not to the top so I assumed it was heat soak.

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Do you think you could walk me through what you mean? I really have no idea what i’m completely.

Other than the pressure testing and seeing slight coolant drips down that side of the block and the mechanic report, I’ve had no other signs of it, My oil was slightly green when i did the timing but not milky, Coolant has looked fine no misfires, Or overheating, I did take it to oregon and back and when parking i noticed the heat gauge went up but not to the top so I assumed it was heat soak.

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Overheating is NOT heat soak. Oil should never be milky green. You need to fix those coolant leaks and keep testing. Oil and coolant can mix in several places. Where did the coolant drip? Did you find the source? Have you run any other tests? Are there any other symptoms? Run poor? Misfire? Smoke? Check engine light? We need more info.
 
I saw coolant drip a few times on the intake side of the block above and onto/around the freeze plug, I also noticed greenish tinted puddle lower down the same side of the block going to the ground which i assume is the coolant dripping down.
I have only ran the coolant pressure test myself, No check engine light but occasional smoke thats white but goes away after a few minutes of driving, I usually notice smoke for the first 10-15 minutes.
I do notice my idle in park is around 1100 - 1300 RPM and idles up and down, I was told the car did have a vacuum leak originally and " hesitated " in lower rpm.
For the overheating I had no issues of it when driving to oregon and back during the drive or stops along the way, it was when I drove back for around 4~Hours and then got home, I had put the car in park and noticed the temp gauge went slightly above the middle range in between the middle and top, so i turned it off, Next day I checked coolant which looked fine, Drove around and didnt see the head go anywhere, Had AC and heat on both worked just fine.
 
Took off my intake hose to get a better view at the throttle body coolant lines and saw oil inside, Looks like it’s coming from the turbo

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That is 100% a failed head gasket, it's clearly seen oozing between the head and block with dried glycol left behind.

Head gaskets can fail in many ways, this is one of them that won't have any affect on the running of the car or many major symptoms. Head needs to come off, head and deck inspected for flatness, cracks and corrected from there if need be.
 
That is 100% a failed head gasket, it's clearly seen oozing between the head and block with dried glycol left behind.

Head gaskets can fail in many ways, this is one of them that won't have any affect on the running of the car or many major symptoms. Head needs to come off, head and deck inspected for flatness, cracks and corrected from there if need be.
Is there anything else I should replace while the head is off? I know ill need some new gaskets but just wanna know if theres anything else i shit hit while im down there
 
Is there anything else I should replace while the head is off? I know ill need some new gaskets but just wanna know if theres anything else i shit hit while im down there
If you don't know when the timing belt and all it's accessories have been done, now is the time.
 
Is there any benefit of going MLS hg? I was planning on going for the felpro gasket, and do I need to swap the timing belt again if I just replaced it like 1400 Miles ago? Or is it fine to reuse.
 
Mls is better for high boost/HP. Factory graphite better seal, cheaper but doesn't handle very high HP + boost. I like graphite gaskets personally for most of my vehicles under 350hp.

Mark the direction at which the timing belt spins, reinstall same way. You can reuse it if it only got 1400 miles

Make sure your water pump, tensioner and related pulleys are all new or replaced that last time you did the timing. Getting a new top end gasket set and new head bolts or arp head studs recommend. Resurface the head, reseal the valves against valve seats with grinding compound, change valve seals , replace valve guides if necessary ( machine shop will measure everything and replace if you ask)
 
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Mls is better for high boost/HP. Factory graphite better seal, cheaper but doesn't handle very high HP + boost. I like graphite gaskets personally for most of my vehicles under 350hp.

Mark the direction at which the timing belt spins, reinstall same way. You can reuse it if it only got 1400 miles

Make sure your water pump, tensioner and related pulleys are all new or replaced that last time you did the timing. Getting a new top end gasket set and new head bolts or arp head studs recommend. Resurface the head, reseal the valves against valve seats with grinding compound, change valve seals , replace valve guides if necessary ( machine shop will measure everything and replace if you ask)
Awesome, I really appreciate the list.

Do you know of any good guides on here or videos to follow? I’m sort of familiar with the removal of the timing but nothing to do with the head
 
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