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4G63T 2G 350-400whp long Block- Where?

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azkkr

15+ Year Contributor
53
0
Aug 21, 2005
suwanee, Georgia
I want to get my 2g TSI to about 350whp without stressing to much the engine. I have seen setups at slowboy and bushur. What mods will i need to do to my head and block to get it to 350whp and where can I get that already setup? What neds to be done to the tranny to hold such hp? where can I get the tranny done or buy one? I want to keep this as my Daily drive!!
http://a.im.craigslist.org/PR/EJ/0qJa4iXI4EhIp8Dbk3ywBjBGzn7F.jpg
 
so if i rebuilt with 1st generation rods and 2g pistons I should be save? what other mods will you reccomend to keep it safe!!!
 
so if i rebuilt with 1st generation rods and 2g pistons I should be save? what other mods will you reccomend to keep it safe!!!

Its all about the engine tune, I would recomend so 550cc injectors & a 190lph fuel pump and the least and them eather S-AFC or DSMLink to get it tuned in. A bigger turbo wouldnt hurt eather the stock T25 is crap.
 
If you are getting DSMLINK get bigger than 550's... You would just have to upgrade later... 550's wouldn't make much sense.
 
so if i rebuilt with 1st generation rods and 2g pistons I should be save? what other mods will you recommend to keep it safe!!!

First Gen A rods. A.K.A. 6-bolt rods are the upgrade. First gen B and all Second gen rods have about the same HP potential (all are 7-bolt rods).

Nevertheless, your stock 7bolt rods and 2G pistons are fine for your goal. Many have taken such stock Long Blocks (including cams and valve train) to over 400 HP as daily drivers...

6bolt rods have been pushed to 500+ whp w/ no problem.

Don't get a TRE or Shep tranny for 350hp!

Is someone telling you that you must build your block for such outputs? Just because it is a 4 cylinder doesn't mean it can't take the abuse or pressure.
 
My 220,000kms stock 7bolt motor and tranny have lasted 2 seasons at roughly 400whp with a crap tune(roughly 5 degree's of knock in 3rd thanks to high timing caused by the S-AFC) with no ill effects.
 
i had similar goals to yours. I went with a JDM engine when my stock engine failed. Check my mods in signature...I'm getting dyno tuned this weekend. I expect at least 280 hp (conservative). My next mods are comp cams 10100 and a punishment racing 02 dump. Should easily be at 300 hp.
 
yes. this is all good info. I think i should do some work to the block once i rebuilt it just in case i go a little higher eventually. what turbo do you guys recomend that will get me there without pushing it all the way?
 
50trim, 60-1, 20g, GT35R, 25G, 18G, 56trim, . . .

But none of this matters. You need to pay attention to your hot side... When do you wan t boost and where do you want to drive this machine... The hot side is paramount. You have a little 2.0L.
 
If anything I would say upgrade to a metal intake gasket, 4 layer metal head gasket, and some ARP head studs just so you can handle high boost on whatever turbo you get, (except the T25, if you keep that stock shit is fine.) Ive heard the stock composite gasket can handle some serious horsepower, but I am not sure of how much boost it can take daily, anyone want to chime in on how much boost Felpro head gaskets can handle?
 
30 psi, 60-1 compressor (E-cover), t3 stage3 turbine in a BEP turbine housing, FP2X cams, ARP head studs (torqued to 120 ft-lbs.)

The key is avoiding knockLOL . Any little bit of knock can pop a new oem style gasket w/ arp head studs torqued even to 120 ft-lbs. It's a great "idiot fuse" that will go before you really damage something. But, CAN be a little sensitive, I've blown one w/ 1 degree of timing retard logged on dsmlink. 1 degree retard = 4-6 knock counts (considering ecu does nothing when 1-3 counts are detected). Nevertheless, it will diciplie you to tune correctly:D .

BUT, there's nothing wrong w/ insurance and/or putting a gasket in that can take the beating. Especially if you plan on installing forged internals and ARP clamps. I'll be grabbing a MLS gasket very, very soon:thumb: .
 
30 psi, 60-1 compressor (E-cover), t3 stage3 turbine in a BEP turbine housing, FP2X cams, ARP head studs (torqued to 120 ft-lbs.)

The key is avoiding knockLOL . Any little bit of knock can pop a new oem style gasket w/ arp head studs torqued even to 120 ft-lbs. It's a great "idiot fuse" that will go before you really damage something. But, CAN be a little sensitive, I've blown one w/ 1 degree of timing retard logged on dsmlink. 1 degree retard = 4-6 knock counts (considering ecu does nothing when 1-3 counts are detected). Nevertheless, it will diciplie you to tune correctly:D .

BUT, there's nothing wrong w/ insurance and/or putting a gasket in that can take the beating. Especially if you plan on installing forged internals and ARP clamps. I'll be grabbing a MLS gasket very, very soon:thumb: .

thanks bro! more info like this is what I want. Specific and straight to the point!!:thumb:
 
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