420a is shot. 1200 budget. help?

[ryan95eclipse]

Got a 1200 dollar budget at full max. Engine should finish being pulled tomorrow. Its supposed to have je pistons n eagle rods bored .40 over. we will see soon enough. but it wasnt making any oil pressure even after all new pumps and rod bearings once it warms up. Looking to rebuild to bottom end. new crank, main and rod bearings. all new gaskets. and if i dont have any je pistons or eagle rods. a set of those too. so i can go turbo after winter. Anyone know of any places doing a cheap deal? checked around a few sites. its still pretty expensive. any ideas? after turbo. im looking to run 15 psi daily.

 

[LD25Delta9]

There's CI Motorsports, MPx's page for just Internals or MPx's Bottom End Kit. I didn't include CI's page for a kit because MPx was cheaper and you're ballin' on a budget. You could also E-Bay it for a basic rod & piston combo, but you need to make sure they're legit and the proper size.

 

[ryan95eclipse]

I have checked out both of those sites. Dont get me wrong they both have good deals but this is the total budget at max im working with right now as of now job and it is my DD. I plan on getting my block hot tanked for 45 bucks. and if i do have up'd rods n pistons im gonna get them checked out. I dont plan on doing anything with the head unless i find a cheap port n polish. Just looking to get a new crank. all new bearings. all new seals. and if i dont have pistons n rods. a good set of those for a cheap price if anyone has a " hook up" or is selling cheap. This is gonna be my first rebuild.

 

[ryan95eclipse]

I recently bought a 91 turbo awd for $700.

yea this doesnt help me out at all.


i have a guy who has a "hook up" on anything i need. like 4g63 engines for cheap. he got 2 for under 500. running. 6 and 7 bolt. so far he is my best bet.

anyone know of any upcoming/underground type websites?

 

[LD25Delta9]

Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Pick two. If you can't, fast cars is not the game for you.

 

[ryan95eclipse]

I like the concept of the 420a. im not looking to do a huge build. since its my first build i wanna keep it simple with the 420a until i get more experience with rebuilding engines. and to be different i got a few people who are gonna be building and taking their 420a to the turbo stage. AND for the fact that my 95 gs looks badass just dont run

 

[EclipticalGS]

I like the concept of the 420a. im not looking to do a huge build. since its my first build i wanna keep it simple with the 420a until i get more experience with rebuilding engines. and to be different i got a few people who are gonna be building and taking their 420a to the turbo stage. AND for the fact that my 95 gs looks badass just dont run

Badass to some people is an awd car going sideways during a pull.

To help, just get a decent piston/rod combo. Npr/stock rods or JE/Eagle and a virgin or cut crank.

Dont do shit to the head but a new HG.

Ay extra money should go towards a timing belt/ maintenance.

 

[ryan95eclipse]

In the next few days when i can fully get the engine out ill know if i had je/eagle. im gonna need all new gaskets for the bottom end and a new head gasket. the engine was over heating for some reason. but 1200 at max, would like to stay under a 1000. is there any where i can get a set of je/eagle for under 700?

 

[LD25Delta9]

To help, just get a decent piston/rod combo. Npr/stock rods or JE/Eagle and a virgin or cut crank.

Dont do shit to the head but a new HG.

Any extra money should go towards a timing belt/ maintenance.

+1 to all of this.

You can get a rod/piston combo on ebay for 700, just make sure that you have enough metal on your block to bore out to the specs of the new rods. i.e: You're already bored over .40 and you buy some stock spec pistons/rods. Wasted money.

Our heads can flow up to 400hp at 7500RPM stock with no problem. Just get a MLS and some ARP head studs. You have to invest at least 40 into a new set of torque to yield bolts anyways, so you might as well spend another 75 and get re-usable performance ones.

Make sure to get the gates timing kit from here because the hydraulic tensioner on our car is known to fail.

Also, unless you spun a bearing somethin' fierce, you won't need a new crank. Just have yours cleaned and turned if needed.

Let me ask a couple of quick questions: If you don't know why it overheated, why rip it apart? What were you told when you bought the car? Do you trust who you bought it from?

I would diagnose the problem you have, first. For all you know your problem could be a warped head and you just need a new one to swap all your internals into after a good valve lap job. Or with it having supposedly built parts, maybe the head was milled or the block was decked and now the alignment dowel on the back of the block is too long and it won't torque properly, causing a massive leak...

 

[EclipticalGS]

re-reading your post, this is why when someone claims their motor has rods and pistons before i buy the car, always get some sort of proof, whether it be a picture of installation or a reciept of purchase.

Let us know what happens when you pull the motor and drop the pan, then we can further help you.

 

[ryan95eclipse]

i didnt trust him very well no. but i noticed he had the car sitting becuase of a ' fuel pump' got it home and the ECU was unplugged, plugged it in and it started but over heated as i thought. the gauge read normal, but it drove fine around a few miles. i never took it further due to shot rotors. It also had a slight knock up over 3krpm while driving until one day i was beating on it and it stalled and the knock began at 2krpm with no power in the engine.

I changed the oil pump, water pump. all belts. rod bearings radiator, thermostat. all fluids over 8 times. both temp sensors. and redid the timing a shit ton of times. and still nothing. after the oil pump it read 6psi on start up and then dropped down to 0 ocne warm. and the oil light always pops on once warm.


depending on IF I DO have a je/eagle combo then ill get the good gaskets and good bolts. i mean it will safe me about 750 if mine only have less then 5000 miles on them and their re-usable.

I finally got fed up and took the car to a known mechanic. He was gonan diagnose it and the next day he said the bottom end was shot. the crank was....


Now after it stalled and i was gonna change the rod bearings. the crank was a little chewed up (but i thought it will get my by until i can afford a full rebuild.) the knocking stopped first start up. engine idles smooth. but once i took the oil pan off it was LOADED in shavings from what looked to be my old bearings since they were completely shot and paper thin.

The head im sure is good since there isnt any leaks and it holds good compression.

By the weather up here i should have the engine out within the next few days and completely apart..

is there anything i should know when tearing apart my engine? any comming mistakes?

 

[LD25Delta9]

Any updates on this? I want to know whether or not you had built internals. If it was a fresh build and the previous owner didn't break it in, that could be the cause of the whole problem....

 

[ryan95eclipse]

Im thinking thats what it was. its got 94,550 on it. engine was said to be rebuild at 89,000. guy said he was driving it and one day it stalled. kept trying, it started and he got it home and parked it. I have yet to get the engine finally pulled. im waiting for an extra person to help pull it. tomorrow im gonna try to get around to it.

 

[LD25Delta9]

200 bucks and I'll come over with the proper tools and rip it for you. I'm in NE Indiana. I'll have it out in 2 hrs. guaranteed.

 

[ryan95eclipse]

i would deff take up on that offer but i have done some reading and so far its pretty simple. all i got left its the axles shift linkage and mounts and im down. about an hour job at the pace everything worked with me and came off. i need the experience anyway. im trying to get it out tomorrow if its gonna be a decent day. then once its out it shouldnt take me longer then an hour to disemble it.

anything i should watch for while disembling it?

 

[LD25Delta9]

If you don't have to pull the trans, don't. It will save you about 45-60 bucks on new fluids and axle seals. Pull the bottom flywheel/pressure plate access plate off of the trans and use a flywheel holder to crack the bolts holding the clutch assembly on. There should be 7 if I remember right. This way you only have 1 motor mount to unbolt.

Don't loose track of the shift linkage clips when they fly off. And don't let them hit you in the face.

 

[ryan95eclipse]

Got the engine in pieces today.. and its a 95 block that needs notching LAME! and the rod bearings were shot.. again! and the main bearings are pretty bad.. gonna try to find a crank that i can use without having to bored over the block where the crank sits. but the pistons and rods were the stock ones. stock bore. just to let ya know

 

[bullettdsm]

.. and its a 95 block that needs notching LAME!

VIN 'Y' and 'C' 2.0 Chrysler Main Bearings Set ('95 ONLY)Avenger, Breeze, Eclipse, Neon, Sebring, Stratus, Talon

edit in; I'm going to take that back^^^

(I knew I would have to make this post sometime) Ok, in the last year/year and a half, I have run into problems with Bruce's stuff. He has started to source out product that is getting to be too cheaply made. Gasket sets missing gaskets, brand new water pump that leaked right away, cam seals that leaked on install, crank seals that the inner rubber seal was not bent around the crank (it laid flat on the face of the crank snout - covered the bolt holes), crank seals that appeared so cheap, I would not use them, plus more.

But those bearings; I happened to have a reason to pull apart an engine that I had recently built with those (I forget why, maybe an upgrade? Pistons or rods or something). The bearings look like they had 100k+ on them. They were terrible. And these were on the mains as well. Our crank set-ups never have problems with mains. It is a strong point of our cars. They looked like crap.

I have used his parts/bearings up to this point with no qualms, but I can't continue using his stuff. My reputation is pretty strong, and I can't afford to have a bunch of these come back because of rapping rods etc. (keep in mind that I'm not afraid to use the "less expensive" stuff. I always push for only spending as much as you need to ,and not buying into the hype of having to get the high end product. But it needs to be of an acceptable quality).

Sorry guys (and Bruce) but I cannot recommend his product anymore.

MB

 

[96_killer]

^^ Burn...

 

[LD25Delta9]

Right after my gates timing belt thread Mark.......

OP: Glad to hear it's ripped apart....Not too glad to hear you were fed a dump-truck full of lies.... That is unfortunate. So long as they're genuine, I'd ebay the crap out of a rod and piston combo. With a stock bore, your machine shoppe should be able to cut whatever you need. I'm still adamant about you not needing a new crank, though.