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420A Head rebuild. I need help.

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titogs95

15+ Year Contributor
828
21
Feb 18, 2004
Valencia - Vene, South America
Hi guys and gals.
I am here to be guide.

I am planning to rebuild the head. I have a spare head sitting on my garage right now. It has everything, Exhaust manifold, intake, T/B, valve cover, etc.

I have been searching and I came with the next conclusion: (tell me what u think)

Get an Mls Head gasket from the dealer (Isn’t better cooper Hg or felpro (still MLS)) actually I am thinking in the whole kit. Intanke, exhaust, valve seal, etc. (what else?).

Camshaft Crower 2 or Crane 12. It is a daily drive car.

Do I need new Valves, retainer, springs, lifter, and rocket arms? If I do what are the best to get? Pt cruiser lifters? Etc...

Mopar gasket sealant or permatex ultra cooper spray??

ARP studs, torque to 90-100 lbs, part# 141-4202. right?

Of course I will check the head in a machine shop to be sure it is in good shape, and resurfaced.

Bore the T/B to 55mm if I can "maybe" to 60mm!

Port and polish the Intake, exhaust, T/B, everything! Wow!! A long work!

What is that about valve angles? or valve job?

What do u guys think? Any recommendation? Am I doing something wrong?

PS, Like i say it is a spare head i am willing to do everything and I have time!! and some money. I guess by december i will be done! LOL.

BTW! I am going N/A, because by next year I will afford a GSX! (God, I Hope i can!)

Thanks in advance!
Tito
 
Be very careful man, I just did my head gasket and it was perfect. Then my bolt that holds my timing belt tensioner pulley on snaped and threw my belt which then bent all my valves so im screwed.
 
Civib2 said:
Be very careful man, I just did my head gasket and it was perfect. Then my bolt that holds my timing belt tensioner pulley on snaped and threw my belt which then bent all my valves so im screwed.
sorry to hear that!
I will be carefull! I will look for every single detail!

Thanks
 
Ahhh funny!! I was there and I make a quote about it. But, I didn't see the kit.
I will buy it! ( The only think, i will remove of the kit, are the adjustable cams, and T-belt!. I have it alredy :p )
By the way are the 016, or 018 going to be street use? I will say that it is too!!! much! isn't?

CAn you tell me what is that about valve angle ? what is that? :confused:

Well thanks!
 
hey how much are/were you going to pay for that port and polish job? i'm thinking of doing that to my TB and intake :dsm:
 
As for the valve angle job, I belive what that does is change the angle of both the exahust and intake valves so that they stay open a little bit longer to get the most bang out of the cylinder charge, there is 3 and 5 angle jobs, but the diference on them I have no clue. Some should back up my explanation too, because thats what I heard from someoen who does it, but its been awhile...since I started heading down the turbo route.

As for the port polish deal, I think when you send your head to the machine shop, you'll want to have them do the head/intake manifold and TB, they'll portmatch everything from your TB all the way to your exhaust ports, leaving you with nothing smooth sailing for that path. If they know what they are doing, they might also knife edge your fuel injector ports.
I think the place that wanted to do my head would have charged me $500-$600 for the whole job, and tack on $150-250 for the 5 angle valve job.
 
Crane 12's are good, but my buddy had the 16's in his 95... street drove all the time. Sounded insane! But do what your comfortable with. Good luck on the rebuild!
 
BigRand said:
As for the valve angle job, I belive what that does is change the angle of both the exahust and intake valves so that they stay open a little bit longer to get the most bang out of the cylinder charge, there is 3 and 5 angle jobs, but the diference on them I have no clue. Some should back up my explanation too, because thats what I heard from someoen who does it, but its been awhile...
Um... I'm thinking I would prefer to dispute your explanation.

They don't change the angle of the valves at all. What they do is machine the mating surfaces of the valve and the valve seat. They cut multiple angles into the valve seat to improve the airflow past the valve into the combustion chamber. A 3 angle means they cut three angles into this surface. A 5 angle means they cut five angles. The more angles that are cut into this surface, the closer it comes being perfectly aerodynamic and flowing the smoothest/fastest. This is why a "full radius" valve job is the top of the line valve job. The entire surface of the seat is machined to be smooth and aerodynamic.

Is a full radius worth the additional couple hundred dollars above a 5 angle's cost? Perhaps, but I wouldn't think so on a street car. If you are building a purpose-built track car, then you might want to look into this process to get every last drop of power out of the head. Personally, I went with the 5 angle.

DISCLAIMER:
I am slightly unsure of two things in this post.
1. Valve "seat" might not be the correct term, although it makes sense for the opening in the head that the valve seals against.
2. I want to say that the outer edge of the valve face is cut to match the work on the "seat," but I am only about 90% certain of this.
I just wanted to be sure that no one read this thread and thought a valve job means the valves are repositioned in any way. That's totally off base. I think I got the principles right.
 
dr1665 said:
Um... I'm thinking I would prefer to dispute your explanation.


DISCLAIMER:

I just wanted to be sure that no one read this thread and thought a valve job means the valves are repositioned in any way. That's totally off base. I think I got the principles right.

I'm glad you are disputing this with me, so I can print this and dispute( slap the guy silly who told me what a valve job was) :mad:

This is why I'm glad I we've got tuners, to set people "and their peoples" straight. Thanks diggs.
 
BigRand said:
I'm glad you are disputing this with me, so I can print this and dispute( slap the guy silly who told me what a valve job was) :mad:
I'm sure he's installed enough Spoon engines running T-66 turbos and MoTec system exhausts to know what he's talking about. Why waste your time? :D
 
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