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350-400Hp FWD.. Which axles?

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98mitsubishigst

10+ Year Contributor
1,526
16
Nov 17, 2008
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I have my gst running 27psi on e85 and its around 350-400 hp never got dynoed...
I DO NOT launch my car, ever.. and only time i will is next years shootout..

But i believe my passenger axle is clunking.. and its annoying as hell. but i saw the car places around me have axles for sale for around 69.99$..

I am assuming they would be able to withstand my cars power correct? Especially since i don't launch? Also i baby the hell out of this car and only had 10k miles put on in 3 years...

Thanks!:D
 
If you have to go with an auto parts store set, I'd try the GSP axles from Advance Auto Parts. I've read they're fairly strong.

Or go OEM if you don't want heavy duty axles. Either way, if you ever do plan on trying to launch your car (especially on slicks), might as well kind of prepare for it.


I just broke a Napa axle not too long ago and only estimate to have ~300hp. What I think was going to be a decent launch on slicks just sheared off the outer splined section.
 
I dyno'd at 386hp on a dynojet a few weeks ago (need to update profile still). Running Napa axles without any issues so far. I hear OEM Mitsu axles are actually the strongest without going to something like Raxles or DSS axles. I've launched quite a few times but can't ever get a solid launch even on the strip since I'm still on 215 street tires. As long as you don't wheel hop and you're not running slicks you shouldn't have any issues at all.
 
Im on oreilly(dont know brand name) axles and have not been on a dyno yet but im probably close to 350whp or more. They have held up well so far, not even 1000 miles on them though
 
i dont know about everyone elses axles but i know for a fact that autozone has a very good lifetime warranty. i worked there for about 2 years and i had a customer that had a honda and would swap broken axles every other month. so if swaping axles isnt an issue for ya then autozone may be the way to go.
 
I've had both OEM and EMPI fail on me....but more so w/ EMPI. The only reason I kept using EMPI is because the failure(s) occurred under warranty. I'll probably try something else if they fail again....
 
If your going to race the car and run slicks, I wouldn't dick around with cheap axles. It may not be to hard to swap axles out, but it starts to get annoying after awhile. If your going to race get a good set and be done with it. I run Terhune race works axles. They are very beefed up and have thick bars and come cryo treated for extra strength. The other best part is they are cheaper than dss and Brian gives a lifetime no ? Asked warranty, that alone can't be beat. Just goes to show you how much he stands behind products he makes.
 
They are very beefed up and have thick bars and come cryo treated for extra strength. The other best part is they are cheaper than dss and Brian gives a lifetime no ? Asked warranty, that alone can't be beat. Just goes to show you how much he stands behind products he makes.

The bars and joints are lifetime warrantied, but not the 4130 cups.

Cryo treating is extra money.


Just wanted to correct that info. I took your advice and have a set of his axles on the way to me, which I had setup for road racing (higher temp grease) :thumb:
 
Oh ya cryo is extra but, Brian had told me from now on it would be included in the over all price. Maybe he didn't start doing that yet, either way cryo is the way to go. Glad you got a set you won't be disappointed its so nice not to have to worry about snapping axles anymore. Now just worry about breaking other stuff LOL. I think I'm getting a set soon for the gvr4 I just picked up :)
 
+1 for Brian's axles. He is a very good friend of mine and stands behind his work 100%. Too bad your FWD because I have a practically new pair im getting rid of a AWD set.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Im starting to look into axles now being that Im pushing over 400whp. Right now I have some cheap Napa axles but I haven't launched the car on slicks, just on street tires right now but I plan on running atleast drag radials next time I go to the track. I do have a question regarding upgraded axles. When running the stronger axles does this make my car more prone to tranny failure? Just curious because I would rather replace an axle versus the transmission. Right now my tranny is stock.

Oh ya cryo is extra but, Brian had told me from now on it would be included in the over all price. Maybe he didn't start doing that yet, either way cryo is the way to go. Glad you got a set you won't be disappointed its so nice not to have to worry about snapping axles anymore. Now just worry about breaking other stuff LOL. I think I'm getting a set soon for the gvr4 I just picked up :)
 
I haven't had one single issue with my trans or driveline since switching in Brian's axles. I'm running a LSD, lightend flywheel, spec stage 3+, with fp bolt kit. Ive launched the car a few hundred times at 5250 and no issues. Gotta slip the clutch just right to preload the driveline. I also run diaqueen in the trans and she shifts like butta. So unless your missing gear shifts or not preloading enough you should be just fine.

Look at how far richard33 took his stock manual trans and somehow stock axles.
 
I would just go with stock axles, they should be fine as long as you slip the clutch a little and make sure you don't dump the clutch when launching. I've broken a Raxles axle before and I ended up just going with stock rebuilt axles from O'reily Auto Parts instead because they came with lifetime warranty, with Raxles axles it cost more money to send that axle back for replacement than to just buy another one, Raxles also doesn't warranty the axles if you are racing on them. I wouldn't recommend the Autozone axles either because I've had problems with them popping out of the transmission while driving.
 
If you have to go with an auto parts store set, I'd try the GSP axles from Advance Auto Parts. I've read they're fairly strong.

Or go OEM if you don't want heavy duty axles. Either way, if you ever do plan on trying to launch your car (especially on slicks), might as well kind of prepare for it.


I just broke a Napa axle not too long ago and only estimate to have ~300hp. What I think was going to be a decent launch on slicks just sheared off the outer splined section.

I have the GSP axles from advance. Over 100 passes at the track and never an issue with them various power levels. Probably 30 passes 1.7-1.8 60fts which isnt great but they handled it very well.
 
Dsmkauai what LSD are you running? I definitely need to get a good lsd asap. And also did you install it yourself? Im running an ACT 2600 and fidanza lightweight flywheel. When I do launch I slip the clutch so I dont think I will have a problem with my trans so Im going to run the oem axles for now, I havent had one break on me yet so I must be doing something good even though Im not on slicks.

I haven't had one single issue with my trans or driveline since switching in Brian's axles. I'm running a LSD, lightend flywheel, spec stage 3+, with fp bolt kit. Ive launched the car a few hundred times at 5250 and no issues. Gotta slip the clutch just right to preload the driveline. I also run diaqueen in the trans and she shifts like butta. So unless your missing gear shifts or not preloading enough you should be just fine.

Look at how far richard33 took his stock manual trans and somehow stock axles.
 
Ok cool. Any suggestions for installation? If you can cut those 60' times on fwd theres no need for me to go to an awd swap. My friends with evos and sti's are barely getting those 60' times. Is the setup in your profile up to date?
 
Ya trust me I was pretty stoked with the 60's my friends Sti is pulling the same times LOL and yes my profile is all up to date. I really took trial and error alittle, getting the suspension setup right alignment done to my specs and proper air pressure in the slicks. I think what really has been helping me is heating the tires up just alittle longer and launching with 10psi boost. I noticed if I could get across the 60' mark without shifting into second my times got lower. Every video I watched that i saw shifting happening at the 60' mark my 60's were higher. So really working on the launch and feeling were to take 1st gear rpm's to seems key in the fwd. Once your out of that and you make your next shift, with a good tune and boost. The car should pull you hard the rest of the track.
 
Thanks a lot for the info. Im just looking to run a mid to low 12. I should be there with no problem with my current setup. How are you adjusting your boost for 1st gear? How do I give you props on here for your valuable info as well?
 
I have the GSP axles from advance. Over 100 passes at the track and never an issue with them various power levels. Probably 30 passes 1.7-1.8 60fts which isnt great but they handled it very well.

I have the same GSP axles from Advance Auto. They were relatively cheap (%20 off if you buy online I believe).

I am probably around 325-350hp at the crank, and they have been holding up great, and still look like new. But, I don't launch my car at all. First gear is useless with street tires :rolleyes:
 
Thanks a lot for the info. Im just looking to run a mid to low 12. I should be there with no problem with my current setup. How are you adjusting your boost for 1st gear? How do I give you props on here for your valuable info as well?

No prob bro, I use a gizzmo ms-ibc and a omni 3-bar map to log w/link. With the gizzmo it has 6 memories that I can trigger with different duty cycle's and gain settings. I wired the trigger into my left horn button on the steering wheel and can easily press it with my thumb while shifting. It also has a scramble mode but I havnt really tried it yet. I like the control of the trigger, incase the launch is different or maybe I mess up my nlts LOL. Im running a holset acuator (thx to Justin) and have it adjusted for about 16-17 psi in first then my second setting on the gizzmo bumps it up to 19-20 and it holds solid.
 
A couple things to keep in mind is the difference between 1g and 2g axles. The factory 2g axles are way beefier than the 1gs. Weight of the car will play a huge role in how fast you destroy axles. Last a poor driver will trash axles way easier.

Seems like most of you are 2g guys, what kind of car weights are you guys working with when breaking your axles. I'm running a 96 trans in my 1g fwd just for the bigger axles. The car is super light (2200 with driver) and I won't be making over 350hp. So far the car consistently cuts mid 1.6s but what's the limit?
 
My car is just over 2900 lbs with driver and full tank of gas, so it was under this when I broke my axle. I'm pushing about 300hp through the small 16g.

I personally will probably chalk this one up to a crappy Napa axle. I was told when it was brought back to be exchanged for warranty, the guy behind the counter was shocked to see that the outer splined section just sheared cleanly off from the rest of the axle. He mentioned he'd never see that happen before LOL

That axle will be my "only way to get home axle" if for some freak reason I break both a Terhune and OEM axle in the same trip :thumb:
 
Now which sides are more common for breaking?? It's been since like 04 since I broke my last axle. If I remember correctly it was a pass outter spline that broke.

Brian, any more info on the Terhune axles??
 
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