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300whp Goal ...

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sickguy

15+ Year Contributor
102
0
Dec 21, 2003
Fremont, California
Hey guys. I got my '97 GST Spyder like 6 months ago, since then I've been doing a lot of forum readings and research. I finally had my goal set, I want to go 300-320whp. Not that I don't want to go higher, but realizing I have a FWD and it's a daily driven (40miles / day to work), I think 300whp is more realistic, and I only race once in a while.

My only mods so far are K&N filter and HKS SSQV bov. I also have the 14b sitting, no time to install it yet. Next I'll go with a turbo back, boost controller, UICP, fuel pump rewire, and possibly a stronger clutch. According to dsmtuners stage 1 mods, I should have everything covered, and should hit 300whp. Do you guys think I really need SAFC/MAFT, pocketlogger, fuel injectors or upgrade intercooler to achieve my goal? Since I don't need a 400whp beast, I hope to spend as little as possible on parts. A lot of people don't realize they need to consider regular maintenance, repairs, insurance and gas on top of upgrades.

So I'd appreciate any input you guys make. Oh, and will an intake pipe improve any performance? I read many said no, but wondering if I should spend another $100 for the pipe.

THANKS!!
 
To make 300 whp on pump gas, you will need a bigger set of injectors, and something to tune them with.

I would also suggest a 16g instead of a 14b.
 
Thanks for your post.

It sounds like I have to do Stage II mods in order to reach my goal. If bigger injectors are needed, then I have to get SAFC and logger as well. Then the stock SMIC will not be sufficient for the 16G, and have to get a bigger intercooler. Anyway I already got the 14b, so I will try it first to see how the car drives, as FWD has to deal with traction and other problems. If I still can't resist the need for speed, I'll go with bigger turbo.

Do you think some shops can tune my car better instead of turning it myself by getting SAFC and logger?
 
You would still need at least an AFC for the shop to modify the air/fuel ratio. Even though most shops that tun on the dyno use a wideband o2 to tune, I'm sure they would recommend you having a logger for the runs aswell. :thumb:
 
Since I own a GST and have a simular goal

1. Bigger injectors
2. Turbo back and Intake
3. Turbo and necessary stull like 02 sensors and exhuast manifold (if stock port them)
4. BOV
5. AFC
6. Intercooler Pipers and Frontmount
6. Fuel Pump
 
Hey guys. I just didn't know if my goal could be reached by going with a 14b. From what you guys said, it's pretty hard to do so 16G is what you guys think more practical. I agree with it. But a 16G always needs a bigger injectors, bigger intercooler, and lots of fuel management. I just can't spend too much now, I hope I can get the most from the 14b without bigger injectors and intercooler. Just see how it goes.

Thanks for the posts, it really helped.
 
The 14b will be a worthwhile upgrade for your car but will likely not get you anywhere near 300whp. The stage 1 mods are supposed to equal about 300 at the crank, which would equate to about 230-250 at the wheels. The SMIC and stock injectors are what are going to be holding you back unless you run race gas, water injection, or some other way of cooling the intake charge. The SMIC will not cool well enough to run large amounts of boost on pump with the stock injectors. 300 would be very attainable with a small 16g, decent FMIC and 550's with a good tune. That's not a lot of money spent and is also a proven combo of parts.
 
It is easier to get a 16G to run higher numbers with the same intercooling and fuel supply compared to a 14B.

The reason being, a 14B is going to produce hotter air to get to the same power levels than a 16G would. The reason being, a 14B, being smaller, will have to spin faster to move the same amount of air a 16G would.

Hotter air is going to do two things: heatsoak your intercooler faster, and be more prone to detonation. If it's the same amount of air (in CFMs, not PSI) entering the engine, hotter air will require a richer A/F ratio to make the charge less prone to detonation and preignition.

Either way you go, to get to your goal, you will NEED a fuel pump (190lph or greater). You MAY be able to eek to your goal with stock injectors - you'll have to raise your base fuel pressure about 10PSI with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, though. kpt would be able to elaborate more on that, since he's a tuning god and all.

If you have to upgrade your injectors, you have to have fuel management, of course, with an AFC or otherwise.
 
sick guy pm me your email aim name and we can talk I live in the bay area, and my friend is an expert at tunning(no joke) we also have a company and can help you get parts and what not cheaper than most places would charge you. As for what you would need. You will need, larger injectors(not much bigger), fuel pump(only need a 190 or even the 180lph denso from a vr4), upgraded sidemount or front mount intercooler, I am running 17 psi on a ported fp big28 with 550's and a 190 fuel pump and my intercooler heat soaks after one maybe two pulls in any gear. The problem with us is that we have to use cali's ####ing piss gas 91 octane fuel which makes any goals we have that much harder to reach. Talk to me man I was in your boat a little while ago, hell i need a fmic really badly right now I could even sell you my intercooler pipes cheap when i get my fmic. My aim name is norcalriderRS. Hit me up sometime.

-zach-
 
Syndicate13 said:
The 14b will be a worthwhile upgrade for your car but will likely not get you anywhere near 300whp. The stage 1 mods are supposed to equal about 300 at the crank, which would equate to about 330-350 at the wheels.

I think you meant 230-250 at the wheels, which is a little on the low side. It's more like 250-270 whp with 300 at the crank. You are right about that 300 number though. With a 14b, you can probably push it a little higher, but not much more.
 
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