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2G with spun bearing best route?

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jonbusa

10+ Year Contributor
34
0
Oct 27, 2010
London, Arkansas
Just bought a 96 gst and was told it spun a bearing so they parked it about 5 years ago...my question is what would yall do the rod and crank are scuffed where the bearing spun so ima have to get another crank or have this one turned and have the rod machined at least

i have about 300 to spend on this so what would yall do? upgrade to evo rods and pistons, try to find a used stroker kit for cheap

what would be the best route for the money at the moment...really dont want to go over 400hp for now really just like to get it running but since i have to take the head off and crank out anyways i thought i could do a little bit.

let me know what yall think?
 
Get a used crank that just needs a polish and replace all of the rod bearings and the one bad rod. That's the cheapest way to do it.
 
If youre going to rebuild, your going to spend more than 300 bones. If thats all you got, i say look for another stock block on craigslist or maybe even on here. If your lucky like i was, youll find one at that price and in good condition and you could use that.
 
Depending on how bad the rod is, it may just need polished out. This is going to cost more than $300 even using a topline rebuild kit. Machining isn't cheap nor are OEM parts that may need replaced.
 
Save up some money and 6 bolt swap it... probably your best option imo.

Don't buy anything from topline. My buddys who run their own tuning/performance shop have had customers have bad experience with topline products.
 
Find a good machineshop and have your rod jounals machined down and polished. You can get a bearing set for undercut journals. You can make it last a little longer. It probably wouldn't hurt to order a head gasket set and re ring the pistons. I plan on doing this after I boost to make sure my dd can handle 10 psi safely
 
it being a 96 it probably has crank walk as well so im probably going to end up looking for a crank too ive found evo9 pistons and rods for 150 shipped and an evo crank for 100... that would solve all my problems just need to come up with the lil extra to get rings and bearings and id be back in the game
 
Man you should also replace the timing belt and water pump while you're doing the rebuild. Your also gonna need a new head gasket. I spun the #2 rod bearing on mine and I just had the crank ground, nitrided then micro polished. I did pick up new forged pistons and rods, then it was all over from there. I rationalized that if I upgraded the block then I needed to upgrade this and that, well $2k later and two years later it was finally done ROFL! Good luck I wish you a speedy recovery :thumb:
 
just bc i spun a rod does that definatly require me to have the crank turned or get another crank? or it just depends on how much it was ran after the bearing spun?

and if i went with a brand new evo 8 crank would i just get a set of main bearings for an evo8 and everything work right?
 
i would save your money! You will also need to get oil, coolant,a ton of gaskets, coolant, timing belt, water pump. and might as well do the other belts.

My girlfriend spun here rod bearing and it was more logical and cheaper to get a used one that was fully assembled from the junk yard. So the motor cost $400 and an hour drive each way to pick it up. And to days to swap it and she still had a bill of like $150 for all the odds and ends that are involved.
 
i think if mine dont have crankwalk i am going to just have the crank turned and put new rod bearings in it with the evo9 pistons and rods and go with it
 
i think if mine dont have crankwalk i am going to just have the crank turned and put new rod bearings in it with the evo9 pistons and rods and go with it

You will need all new timing components, head gasket and quite possibly head studs.

You'll have to have the engine removed to properly clean it of debris and honing material for the new pistons.

You'll want new seals and preferablly a new OEM oil pump as well. Might as well put in a balance shaft elimination kit in and get rid of a belt.

There is a lot more to it mainly because it's been sitting for 5 years according to your knowledge.
 
the cylinders have no ring groove and are smooth as can be i dont see any need in honing it...and yea a new timing belt and tentioner would be a good idea, water pump is already new...seals and oil pump are not a must the car only has right at 100k on it

my biggest question is does the crank definatly have to be turned if it spins a bearing or can i get by with just cleaning it up if it isnt bad...or will it just spin it again if its not turned?
 
You will need all new timing components, head gasket and quite possibly head studs.

You'll have to have the engine removed to properly clean it of debris and honing material for the new pistons.

You'll want new seals and preferablly a new OEM oil pump as well. Might as well put in a balance shaft elimination kit in and get rid of a belt.

There is a lot more to it mainly because it's been sitting for 5 years according to your knowledge.

^^ listen to the wiseman he is correct. Dont take short cuts...save more money and do everything

Your gonna need:
timing belt
balance belt
timing tensioner
timing idler
a honer
oil pump
all the fluids
all the gaskets
new rod bearings
new oil pan gasket

I've been working on my rebuild for 3 months and it cost me 2k already
 
the cylinders have no ring groove and are smooth as can be i dont see any need in honing it...seals and oil pump are not a must the car only has right at 100k on it

Honing is so the new rings can seat themselfs. You will want to replace the timing pulleys as well.

If you spun a bearing then you have metal particles throughout your oil system. You can clean off the oil pump but there is no guarentee you have removed all of the material. Check for wear and proper specifications on the gear.

Taking out the crank you want to put in new seals regardless. If you are going to half ass it then expect more problems. You are asking for advice and we are telling you what needs to be done and what should be done as well.

If you were just simply replacing bearings for the hell of it to freshen up the motor then you wouldn't need to pull it out, but seeing as you spun the bearing everything will need flushed properly. It's not just a simple task for someone that has no idea of what it entails.
 
Honing is so the new rings can seat themselfs. You will want to replace the timing pulleys as well.

If you spun a bearing then you have metal particles throughout your oil system. You can clean off the oil pump but there is no guarentee you have removed all of the material. Check for wear and proper specifications on the gear.

Taking out the crank you want to put in new seals regardless. If you are going to half ass it then expect more problems. You are asking for advice and we are telling you what needs to be done and what should be done as well.

If you were just simply replacing bearings for the hell of it to freshen up the motor then you wouldn't need to pull it out, but seeing as you spun the bearing everything will need flushed properly. It's not just a simple task for someone that has no idea of what it entails.
:hmm::aha::cry:
 
i work for GM and there saying strongly applies here especialy when it is your own car

"FIX IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME"

I just dont see you would want to "half ass" your own motor.
 
i would love to put all this new stuff in it and i understand that is the best thing but i drive a dodge 3500 cummins as a daily driver...i just want this thing running so i can save fuel right now...when/if fuel starts to go back down i would gladly tear it bak apart...im sure i will be after racing season starts as i am infected with the "go faster" virus... i understand ### all NEEDS to be dun but im asking ### HAS to be dun just to get it going

"###" = what i dunno why it did that
 
i would love to put all this new stuff in it and i understand that is the best thing but i drive a dodge 3500 cummins as a daily driver...i just want this thing running so i can save fuel right now...when/if fuel starts to go back down i would gladly tear it bak apart...im sure i will be after racing season starts as i am infected with the "go faster" virus... i understand ### all NEEDS to be dun but im asking ### HAS to be dun just to get it going

"###" = what i dunno why it did that

If you have a good running dd that is all the more reason to take your time, save some money, and do it right. If you don't you will be in the same boat again relatively soon.
 
that is what i am saying tho my daily driver is a diesel and i have to drive 20 miles to work everyday that fuel bill is killing me... all i need to do is get it running and last for a few months til i can get the cash to do it right... the money i save from fuel alone will pay for alot of this stuff that i need but dont Have to have
 
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