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2G with spun bearing best route?

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jonbusa

10+ Year Contributor
34
0
Oct 27, 2010
London, Arkansas
Just bought a 96 gst and was told it spun a bearing so they parked it about 5 years ago...my question is what would yall do the rod and crank are scuffed where the bearing spun so ima have to get another crank or have this one turned and have the rod machined at least

i have about 300 to spend on this so what would yall do? upgrade to evo rods and pistons, try to find a used stroker kit for cheap

what would be the best route for the money at the moment...really dont want to go over 400hp for now really just like to get it running but since i have to take the head off and crank out anyways i thought i could do a little bit.

let me know what yall think?
 
That isnt the best way to go about it though. You are risking breaking something and causing more damage to the engine by "half-assing" it just to be able to drive it for a few months. That is not a risk I would be willing to take. Lets say your timing belt lets go because you didnt want to spend the money on it. Then you are looking at a full rebuild (like me) and 4G63 internals are not cheap. I feel your pain though, I drive a pickup that guzzles gas as my DD as well.
 
that is what i am saying tho my daily driver is a diesel and i have to drive 20 miles to work everyday that fuel bill is killing me... all i need to do is get it running and last for a few months til i can get the cash to do it right... the money i save from fuel alone will pay for alot of this stuff that i need but dont Have to have

Sorry man but not hating or anything but if ## lookin for a dd especially a gas saver? Y a mitsu? yet alone a turbo? There are plenty of more reliable, cheaper, and efficient cars u just have to look more.

I am an auto tech i used to work at an independent shop, and I think mitsu's are unreliable, and a pain to work on. The only reason i have one is cause they are fast and tons of fun. And i own one expecting it to break. LOL just my .02
 
seriously..why do people ask questions and then when they get answer they dont want to hear they argue?

Go ahead and just put new bearings in so you spin another one on the first startup. Eventually you will learn to do it right.

You said the car has been sitting for 5 years so nothing is new and everything needs to be changed. If you don't like that answer, sell the car and buy something else that is already running.
 
Im just on a tight budget... I only paid $500 for the car... Ive just sold sum other parts so now i jave the cash to do it right... And have been doin alot of reseach and ive found sum good deals... Getn new evo crank, rods, and pistons, new rings new bearings, an all new timing stuff.
 
car sits for 5 years, every seal on that thing needs changing. and just machine shop alone will run you alot more than 300.i know couse i just got done rebuilding mine after bearing failure. i would have just stay away from it. if you want to use same crank, take it to a good machine shop and have it checked. also a couple of things u wanna changed i didnt see listed. oil strainer and oil squirters
 
im getting a new crank. ok i will check into those thanks guys for all the advice and i wasn't arguing just on a really tight budget... should be ok now i hope

another question the timing tentioner does it have a bearing that can be changed or just the whole assembly i noticed on partsdinosaur.com that they sell a timing kit that comes with bearings for the timing tentioner
 
I would buy an OEM timing tensioner. most of the timing kits only come with the pulley, and sometimes a cheap azz tensioner. i would trust those tensioners. stick with the Mitsu on that one. Gates makes a nice timing component kit. think they are like $130.
 
I don't know what you are paying for your new evo crank. But if it's more than a stock 2g crank, whatever the difference is a waste of money. "Evo" cranks are no better than stock 2g cranks.

How so? I always thought that dropping a evo8 crank in there eliminated the crankwalk issue? I'm not disagreeing with you, Im just curious about what the deal is.
 
How so? I always thought that dropping a evo8 crank in there eliminated the crankwalk issue? I'm not disagreeing with you, Im just curious about what the deal is.

If that was the case, everyone would buy Evo cranks. ALL stock 7 bolt cranks are EXACTLY the same.
 
Oh the infamous crank walk. There is no fix if it happens it happens. A crank wonk fix that. I saw two days ago a pt loser w/ and auto crankwalk.
 
Oh the infamous crank walk. There is no fix if it happens it happens. A crank wonk fix that. I saw two days ago a pt loser w/ and auto crankwalk.

well my 7 bolt crankwalked and never really even thought about keeping it so I didn't do much research on it. Good to know.
 
Now rumor has it that bypassing the clutch start switch helps. I have not had an issue so I can not confirm or deny this trick. Just food for thought.
 
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