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2G Power Door Lock Issue / Aftermarket Door Locks?

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BadAss4Bangers

10+ Year Contributor
88
3
Feb 10, 2012
meriden, Connecticut
Been pretty much surfing the forums for an hour trying to figure out what my issue is. Lots of helpful info but lots of misleading info as well so I am trying to figure out my specific situation and what I need to do.

I have a 95 Eclipse GSX and I cannot lock and unlock my doors using the remote and when I try to lock my doors using the "lock" button from inside the passenger door unlocks/locks (barely) and the drivers side I need to manually lock. I also noticed that my battery is draining when letting is sit for a couple days leading me to think there is a constant current from the actuators.

From my researching it looks like I need 2 new actuators costing a lot of $$ at the stealership. I was reading and a bunch of DSM'ers are using aftermarket actuators. Are there any disadvantages of using aftermarket actuators? I was thinking of getting these in particular Alarms, keyless, starters, remotes and Transmitters: DS-2.3

I don't really care if I loose my alarm as long as I can use my keyless entry.
 
My locks were getting very slow to unlock and not unlocking at all sometimes. I got some of those actuators like in your link and wired them up to the stock wires and they were much more powerful than the stocks ones and locked/unlocked very fast compared to even new stock ones. By using the stock wiring my alarm / keyeless entry and everything continued to work the same as stock.
 
My locks were getting very slow to unlock and not unlocking at all sometimes. I got some of those actuators like in your link and wired them up to the stock wires and they were much more powerful than the stocks ones and locked/unlocked very fast compared to even new stock ones. By using the stock wiring my alarm / keyeless entry and everything continued to work the same as stock.

Cool good to know, thanks for the reply. So it was pretty much a direct swap and no re-wiring?
 
Is that the most reliable actuator? I'm looking for something that will last. Door locks that don't work suck.

Not sure but, I have found that a couple people are using them on the forum and no complaints. I ordered them 2 days ago so once they come in I will be installing them. Ill keep you posted.
 
allelectronics.com has a few acuators you could buy.. I actually bout a few for another car and also for my eclispe for a pop trunk option... cheap and they work very well.. just my 2 cents..
 
Alright so now that I took the door panel off I have a good look at what the problem with my door locks are. The yellow clip that goes over the actuator was not seated properly and I cannot get it to clip on to the actuator cylinder. Once I took the yellow clip completely off the cylinder my passenger side door lock started working properly.

I included some pics of what my clip looks like so let me know if anything looks wrong with it and how it actually clips on to the cylinder. Also the white piece inside the clip DOES move side to side properly which I have seen problems with that from other dsmers

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Anyone? Now that I looked at the pics I posted, does it somehow twist into that notch in the middle of the clip then clip on after being twisted? I just don't want to break it so I am being extra cautious.
 
Anyone? Now that I looked at the pics I posted, does it somehow twist into that notch in the middle of the clip then clip on after being twisted? I just don't want to break it so I am being extra cautious.

That's not an actuator, and neither is the thing it clips on to. It clips on to the actual lock cylinder (for the keys) and it's a little switch that senses when you lock/unlock the door with the key, then disables the alarm (if locked) or arms the alarm (if unlocked). To get mine on, I had to remove my door handle and clip it on with the lock cylinder removed from the handle.

The power lock actuators are actually towards the middle of the back of the door panel.
 
That's not an actuator, and neither is the thing it clips on to. It clips on to the actual lock cylinder (for the keys) and it's a little switch that senses when you lock/unlock the door with the key, then disables the alarm (if locked) or arms the alarm (if unlocked). To get mine on, I had to remove my door handle and clip it on with the lock cylinder removed from the handle.

The power lock actuators are actually towards the middle of the back of the door panel.

aha that explains it. I no longer have the car and never got around to fixing the locks, o well...
 
Hey everyone. I'm really at a stand still with my power locks.
I have read just about everything I can on this situation. I bought aftermarket actuators and wired them up. My passenger side lock cylinder switch is fine and I just replaced the driver's side because it was broken.
The passenger side locks/unlocks properly, but my driver's side will only lock properly and does nothing when I try to lock it. This is all done with the lock/unlock button on the door panel.
If anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
 
Do you hear a click in the driver's side when you press the button? The actuator can be fine and it still won't work if your power lock relay is broke.

I've got a similar problem, driver's side door won't lock or unlock with the button. Ordered a new relay, it's in the mail. Hopefully it solves the problem.
 
Yeah, there is a relay by the driver's rear speaker and one behind the HVAC controls. They are both working correctly.

I am having a similar issue, hower neither of my power locks are working. I took the power lock actuators out, [currently using stock manual locks ofr the door], I bench tested the lock actuators. They fire and the arm locks. I can hear the newly installed relay under the radio click. The fuses under the dash fuse box are intact.

So now I learn there is a second relay for the power locks? The power relay behind the rear speaker on the driver's side.

I need to pull out the speaker and the plastic intereior cover to find it? What does this one look like? Does any one have a picture for it?

Thank you for your time on this.
 
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Something everyone needs to check is on this connector. That little dowel on the white part of the connector HAS to be centered on the connector for the door locks to work properly. It clips into the actual mechanical door lock and when you turn the lock it'll turn that dowel to activate the actuators. If it's pushed to one side or the other at all times it's constantly trying to engage the actuator any time you use the locks. Just turn that dowel so it's centered between the two clips BEFORE doing anything else. Both door locks need centered.
 

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Something everyone needs to check is on this connector. That little dowel on the white part of the connector HAS to be centered on the connector for the door locks to work properly. It clips into the actual mechanical door lock and when you turn the lock it'll turn that dowel to activate the actuators. If it's pushed to one side or the other at all times it's constantly trying to engage the actuator any time you use the locks. Just turn that dowel so it's centered between the two clips BEFORE doing anything else. Both door locks need centered.

No, this is just a key sensor. It wires into the Alarm system so that you can operate it without the remote/with the key. It basically senses when the lock cylinder rotates. Remember, the cylinder doesn't do the actual locking. It's just access protection.

The actuator is near the actual lock mechanism towards the middle of the door on the back edge. There's a wire that runs along the bottom of the door right to it, and it's easy to find with that.
 
No, this is just a key sensor. It wires into the Alarm system so that you can operate it without the remote/with the key. It basically senses when the lock cylinder rotates. Remember, the cylinder doesn't do the actual locking. It's just access protection.

The actuator is near the actual lock mechanism towards the middle of the door on the back edge. There's a wire that runs along the bottom of the door right to it, and it's easy to find with that.

If you turn that sensor one way or the other, it WILL activate the actuators. That's how it knows when to unlock/lock the passenger door is when it sees that sensor turn, so if that sensor isn't connected and it's turned to one side, it will constantly try and turn the actuator whichever way the sensor is telling it to. I've tested this on my own 2g as I was having issues with the locks trying to constantly lock themselves, this was the culprit.
 
If you turn that sensor one way or the other, it WILL activate the actuators. That's how it knows when to unlock/lock the passenger door is when it sees that sensor turn, so if that sensor isn't connected and it's turned to one side, it will constantly try and turn the actuator whichever way the sensor is telling it to. I've tested this on my own 2g as I was having issues with the locks trying to constantly lock themselves, this was the culprit.

Good point, but you'd be having all crazy kinds of problems if that were the case (as in, alarm won't turn off, can't unlock the door, etc :) ). If the locks simply don't work, then the problem is the actuator, rather than the key sensor.
 
Good point, but you'd be having all crazy kinds of problems if that were the case (as in, alarm won't turn off, can't unlock the door, etc :) ). If the locks simply don't work, then the problem is the actuator, rather than the key sensor.

Actually the alarm worked fine, and as long as you unlocked the door you wanted open with the key it wouldn't try and relock itself until you used a different door or the power locks. If you hit unlock on the power locks the doors would try to unlock (thought the actuator was frozen) and then they'd just lock again. If you unlocked it manually though and then hit the lock they operated perfectly fine. That's what lead me to do some more digging since the actuator worked fine one way, but not the other I knew the actuator wasn't the culprit.
 
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