Resolved 2G No start no click power to car

[Dawson159]

I put my throttle body back on yesterday after adjusting the FIAV and I went to start the car and nothing. I thought the battery was dead so I charged it and tried to start it again and still nothing. I don’t even remember a click but it may have clicked I can’t remember. But it definitly isn’t clicking now, what do you guys think?

I’ve researched it a bunch but I couldn’t find a thread that was exactly like what’s happening to me.

Another thing that may or may not be a factor is when you take the throttle body off you have to disconnect two coolant lines that are kind of above the starter so could coolant have ruined the starter or something?

Electrical is my least favorite part about cars so please Bear with me because it’s really confusing to me

Thanks I’m advance

 

[shinzon]

The wiring for the starter runs below the throttle body/intake, so if there is damage to a wire and you disturbed it you could have shorted something out. You check the fuses?

Next step would be to see if you're getting battery voltage at the signal terminal at the starter with someone turning the key.

 

[Dawson159]

The wiring for the starter runs below the throttle body/intake, so if there is damage to a wire and you disturbed it you could have shorted something out. You check the fuses?

Next step would be to see if you're getting battery voltage at the signal terminal at the starter with someone turning the key.

Which fuses should I check?

 

[shinzon]

There's a label on top of each of the fuse boxes that tells you what they are. Starter is a 30a under the hood labeled IGN if i remember correctly.

 

[Dawson159]

There's a label on top of each of the fuse boxes that tells you what you are. Starter is a 30a under the hood labeled IGN if i remember correctly.

Fuse is good

 

[shinzon]

Then next step you'll need to confirm you're getting power to the signal post on the starter when someone turns the key. You can use a multimeter or a test light. Tons of Youtube videos out there to guide you on how to test a starter.

 

[Brembo]

And if you do get power on that wire, smack it hard with a hammer. Let us know how it works out for you.

 

[Dawson159]

Then next step you'll need to confirm you're getting power to the signal post on the starter when someone turns the key. You can use a multimeter or a test light. Tons of Youtube videos out there to guide you on how to test a starter.

It is getting power and I smacked it with a hammer and nothing happens

 

[shinzon]

It is getting power and I smacked it with a hammer and nothing happens

So if you are seeing battery voltage at the signal (small wire) post on the starter with the key to crank, that means you're getting signal from the ignition to the starter, and it tells you everything in between (wiring, starter relay, etc.) is good. How did you test for power? Multimeter?

One last test you could do is, with the multimeter set to read dc volts, touch the positive lead to the positive battery terminal, and the negative lead to the large wire on the starter. Multimeter should show close to zero while attempting to crank.

If that tests out good, then you've narrowed your problem down to your starter, and you can replace it.

 

[Dawson159]

So if you are seeing battery voltage at the signal (small wire) post on the starter with the key to crank, that means you're getting signal from the ignition to the starter, and it tells you everything in between (wiring, starter relay, etc.) is good. How did you test for power? Multimeter?

I want to makes sure I checked the right wire is the signal wire the wire that goes to the positive terminal?

 

[shinzon]

I want to makes sure I checked the right wire is the signal wire the wire that goes to the positive terminal?

Nope, the big wire that runs to the positive battery terminal is the main power feed for the starter. When the starter sees signal from the ignition, it uses that high gauge wire to spin the starter motor and turn the engine.

Your signal wire is going to be the other, smaller wire. Black with a single spade connector, if I remember correctly.

 

[Dawson159]

Nope, the big wire that runs to the positive battery terminal is the main power feed for the starter. When the starter sees signal from the ignition, it uses that high gauge wire to spin the starter motor and turn the engine.

Your signal wire is going to be the other, smaller wire. Black with a single spade connector, if I remember correctly.

Yah the big wire is the postitive terminal then on top of it there is a small black wire which is the signal wire right?

 

[shinzon]

Yah the big wire is the postitive terminal then on top of it there is a small black wire which is the signal wire right?

Yup, signal should be a small black wire with a single connector. I think it's above the big positive wire on a DSM starter, but it's been awhile sine I had one in my hands.

 

[Dawson159]

Yup, signal should be a small black wire with a single connector. I think it's above the big positive wire on a DSM starter, but it's been awhile sine I had one in my hands.

Ok so me and my dad had a misunderstanding (he’s the one helping me) I thought he checked the signal wire and thought it had power but what he was actually touching was the positive terminal so I went and did it instead and it’s getting no power so what does that mean?

 

[shinzon]

Ok so me and my dad had a misunderstanding (he’s the one helping me) I thought he checked the signal wire and thought it had power but what he was actually touching was the positive terminal so I went and did it instead and it’s getting no power so what does that mean?

No power on the signal wire with someone turning the key to crank? That means the starter is likely good, and the problem lies somewhere upstream. Since the car is M/T, the options could be the clutch switch, ignition switch, starter relay, or wiring. Another option could be the anti-theft system, which is tied to the Key Minder in the ignition switch, but you'd see the SECURITY light on the dash as you tried to crank.

Next step would be to check for power at the starter relay with the key to crank. You could also disconnect the clutch switch to disable it (obviously, don't try to start the car unless it's in neutral if you do that).

 

[Dawson159]

No power on the signal wire with someone turning the key to crank? That means the starter is likely good, and the problem lies somewhere upstream. Since the car is M/T, the options could be the clutch switch, ignition switch, starter relay, or wiring. Another option could be the anti-theft system, which is tied to the Key Minder in the ignition switch, but you'd see the SECURITY light on the dash as you tried to crank.

Next step would be to check for power at the starter relay with the key to crank. You could also disconnect the clutch switch to disable it (obviously, don't try to start the car unless it's in neutral if you do that).

Ok so I took apart my dash and put a different relay on the starter relay port to see if anything would happen and nothing happened my clutch switch is already removed so that means it’s in the ignition switch somewhere? It’s so weird because it wasn’t showing signs of failure at all before this

 

[shinzon]

Ok so I took apart my dash and put a different relay on the starter relay port to see if anything would happen and nothing happened my clutch switch is already removed so that means it’s in the ignition switch somewhere? It’s so weird because it wasn’t showing signs of failure at all before this

Put you fingers on the starter relay. Can you feel it click when you turn the key to crank?

What I would do next is to pull the relay, and see if I have power on two of the pins with the ignition switch to crank. If you have no power at the relay, the only thing upstream is the ignition switch.

This diagram is from the '97 Talon manual, but your '98 should be the same.

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[jim95redgsx]

There is a one wire connector that runs between the main engine harness and the starter harness (connector A-34 on the above schematic). It is located behind and below the thermostat housing. This wire (black/yellow) carries the start signal from the starter relay (under the dash) to the starter solenoid (on the starter).
Here's a pic (post #41):
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/page-2

Make sure that this connector is plugged in and that there is no broken wires.

Jim

 

[Dawson159]

Put you fingers on the starter relay. Can you feel it click when you turn the key to crank?

What I would do next is to pull the relay, and see if I have power on two of the pins with the ignition switch to crank. If you have no power at the relay, the only thing upstream is the ignition switch.

This diagram is from the '97 Talon manual, but your '98 should be the same.

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No power to the relay so it’s the ignition switch I would say what should I do now?

 

[shinzon]

No power to the relay so it’s the ignition switch I would say what should I do now?

If you have no power to the relay, your ignition switch is the fault, and you can replace it. Remove the cover to the steering column and you'll see how to get it out. I like to double-check my findings first, make sure I'm on the right relay, double check my signal wire, etc. before I condemn a part.

If you'd like to go a step further to confirm the ignition switch is bad, you can probe for power at the ignition switch itself. You can check for battery voltage at pin 1, a white wire, which is the ignition's power feed. If that's good, you can check for power at the black with red wire with the ignition switch to crank.

If you have power on the white wire, and nothing on the black-red with the switch to crank, the ignition switch is the fault without question.

 

[Dawson159]

If you'd like to go a step further to confirm the ignition switch is bad, you can probe for power at the ignition switch itself. You can check for battery voltage at pin 1, a white wire, which is the ignition's power feed. If that's good, you can check for power at the black with red wire with the ignition switch to crank.

If you have power on the white wire, and nothing on the black-red with the switch to crank, the ignition switch is the fault without question.

I found the problem. The wire that comes out from the ignition switch has some wire chopped in between them and it wasn’t going through to the other side of the wire. So it wasn’t getting to the relay. So I cut that wire out and reconnected the original wire and it worked.

I think it was some sort of security wire or something from one of the previous owners

Thanks for your help