Resolved 2G New to DSM, First Car - Oil Pan question.

[Triple802]

1997 Eclipse GS-T

Just purchased and found an oil leak.
I put the car on ramps, cleaned everything underneath and traced the leak up to a corner of the oil pan. Pan itself looks great, I'm thinking it's just the gasket / sealant.
So...cheap enough to drop the pan and re-apply RTV; that's what I will do first.

My first time doing this, so want to ask for help with things to know before going in.
Here's what I've learned so far:

- Using RTV Ultra Grey (no gasket)
- Be aware of two bolts near the timing belt that are shorter than the rest
- Will need to disconnect the hose going to the turbo
- Will need to remove part of the exhaust

Questions:
- I see mentioned alot also needing to remove part of cross support? I'm not sure if that is true for my model?
- Torque spec for oil pan bolts?
- Should I tighten the pan back to spec right away, or tighten enough to make contact and then wait to fully tighten?
- I've read to wait 24hrs before putting oil back in and running the car; is that accurate?
- If the oil pan is hard to get off - are people using putty knives / screw driver / something else? Tips to getting it off without damaging it?
- Anything else I'm not thinking of?

Sorry if this seems excessive for a simple job. I'm new to all of this and a bit nervous to make a costly mistake.

Thanks!

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

Parts are hard to find, totally far to want to be meticulous and careful.

Since you are fwd you have less stuff to remove which is nice. No T-case.

- Take off the down pipe, maybe put some penetrating lube on it right now to get the process going. Expect broken bolts here.
- Remove the two bolts on the drivers side axle shaft carrier. You'll have to flex it away to the back to drop the pan. Don't need to remove the shaft completely.
- Remove turbo oil return line.
- Remove pan and drop. If I remember correctly the oil pickup tube can be a pain so try not to grab it.

I think the GST has a support member on it but it seems you can shimmy around it or remove it. I don't remember removing anything there on my AWD.

5 ft/lb of torque for the bolts. Be super careful on the two short ones on the front case so you don't cross thread or strip them in the aluminum. I also am a fan of loctite.

Do not use a gasket, use RTV. I personally really like "Right stuff" by Permatex but really, anything will probably work. It reccomends the method you suggest which is finger tight, wait an hour then tighten. I do this with most RTV situations.

They have ones that you can return to service immediately, but honestly it's a big project. Sit down and relax and fill it back up with oil the next day.

It will be hard to get off, don't worry haha. I have a 90 degree plastic interior trim tool I use to get in the edge. You can also use a crowbar, screwdriver etc. Careful of surfaces, I'm always a fan of wrapping things in electrical tape if I have to get pushy with it.

Don't forget to drain your oil! Don't forget the gasket for the turbo drain line as well. There are gaskets on the bolts too: https://stmtuned.com/products/oem-4g63-oil-return-line-bolt-gasket-kit.

Happy wrenching!

 

[Triple802]

Parts are hard to find, totally far to want to be meticulous and careful.

Since you are fwd you have less stuff to remove which is nice. No T-case.

- Take off the down pipe, maybe put some penetrating lube on it right now to get the process going. Expect broken bolts here.
- Remove the two bolts on the drivers side axle shaft carrier. You'll have to flex it away to the back to drop the pan. Don't need to remove the shaft completely.
- Remove turbo oil return line.
- Remove pan and drop. If I remember correctly the oil pickup tube can be a pain so try not to grab it.

I think the GST has a support member on it but it seems you can shimmy around it or remove it. I don't remember removing anything there on my AWD.

5 ft/lb of torque for the bolts. Be super careful on the two short ones on the front case so you don't cross thread or strip them in the aluminum. I also am a fan of loctite.

Do not use a gasket, use RTV. I personally really like "Right stuff" by Permatex but really, anything will probably work. It reccomends the method you suggest which is finger tight, wait an hour then tighten. I do this with most RTV situations.

They have ones that you can return to service immediately, but honestly it's a big project. Sit down and relax and fill it back up with oil the next day.

It will be hard to get off, don't worry haha. I have a 90 degree plastic interior trim tool I use to get in the edge. You can also use a crowbar, screwdriver etc. Careful of surfaces, I'm always a fan of wrapping things in electrical tape if I have to get pushy with it.

Don't forget to drain your oil! Don't forget the gasket for the turbo drain line as well. There are gaskets on the bolts too: https://stmtuned.com/products/oem-4g63-oil-return-line-bolt-gasket-kit.

Happy wrenching!

Thank you so much for this!! Super helpful!

I would not have thought about the gasket for the turbo drain line or the bolts!

Broken bolts on the down pipe doesn't sound great...

 

[Triple802]

@CanadianTalonTC - I'm finally digging into this.

Got it cleaned up and oil drained. I'm working on the down pipe.
The two bolts up near the block just seem to have nuts on the underside that I can get to, and nothing on the other side of them...?
Is it a matter of just getting the nuts off (circled in blue)? The other two toward the back (third picture) seems like I can get to both sides w/out issue.

Also - I'm not exactly sure which two bolts on the axel shaft carrier you are referring to. Other than the exhaust downpipe and turbo return line it appears I'll have enough clearance to drop the pan; but I'm probably overlooking something.

Thanks again!!

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[CanadianTalonTC]

Good timing to drop by the site,

Cool to see a factory downpipe and 02 housing these days. If I remember correctly the 02 housing has studs, so just crank those nuts off. Good luck with not breaking it, cross that bridge when you get there but for sure lots of penetrant. I'm also a fan of antiseize on exhaust parts.

Then yes take off the bolts circled. On a stock downpipe there is also a bolt that attaches it to the block on one of the brackets as a downpipe support. I think it's integrated into the clamp below the circle in your first photo but honestly, it's been 6 years since I've touched a stock one. Gaskets could either be fused or completely rotted, they look good though from lack of black streaks so it might take a tug/flex to get off.

As far as the bolts I'm talking about, if you grab the half shaft near the transmission output on the passenger side, and run your hand towards the driver you should eventually hit a bracket with 2 bolts in it. As far as I remember you need to remove those so you can flex the halfshaft out of the way to get the pan off, but maybe it was actually possible to get it off and I just didn't find the right pivot. Either way you can always try and if it drops, great if not pop those 2 bolts out.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

He shouldn’t have a carrier bearing its fwd.

Getting them downpipe bolts out looks like it will be the hardest part of the job. Get some heat on them it will help.

Make sure you clean the oil pan surface good. There is a shallow groove in the center of the flange. The bolts snap easy so be careful when you torque it down.

Good luck

 

[Triple802]

@CanadianTalonTC and @99dsmer4g63 -

Thank you SO MUCH for the responses! Really, it's so good knowing there is help out there. I really appreciate it as I'm new to all of this.

The car was in FL and not driven for a 10yr span, so the upside is there is really minimal rust. I'm in Vermont so I've dealt with the 3hrs to get one bolt off before.
The downpipe came off without an issue!

I went ahead and bought the replacement gasket and bolts for the turbo oil return line; but I'm thinking that maybe I don't need to.

Any reason NOT to just unclamp the hose and reclamp after? Since I'm not replacing the oil pan (just re-doing the RTV); seems I can get away with leaving the fitting in place. I'm leaning this way b/c one the right side bolt is already stripping You should be able to notice it if you zoom in on the pic.

Again - really appreciate the help here. I understand you can't remember everything off the top of your head.

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[pauleyman]

@CanadianTalonTC - I'm finally digging into this.

Got it cleaned up and oil drained. I'm working on the down pipe.
The two bolts up near the block just seem to have nuts on the underside that I can get to, and nothing on the other side of them...?
Is it a matter of just getting the nuts off (circled in blue)? The other two toward the back (third picture) seems like I can get to both sides w/out issue.

Also - I'm not exactly sure which two bolts on the axel shaft carrier you are referring to. Other than the exhaust downpipe and turbo return line it appears I'll have enough clearance to drop the pan; but I'm probably overlooking something.

Thanks again!!

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All you need is a socket and a long extension

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@CanadianTalonTC and @99dsmer4g63 -

Thank you SO MUCH for the responses! Really, it's so good knowing there is help out there. I really appreciate it as I'm new to all of this.

The car was in FL and not driven for a 10yr span, so the upside is there is really minimal rust. I'm in Vermont so I've dealt with the 3hrs to get one bolt off before.
The downpipe came off without an issue!

I went ahead and bought the replacement gasket and bolts for the turbo oil return line; but I'm thinking that maybe I don't need to.

Any reason NOT to just unclamp the hose and reclamp after? Since I'm not replacing the oil pan (just re-doing the RTV); seems I can get away with leaving the fitting in place. I'm leaning this way b/c one the right side bolt is already stripping You should be able to notice it if you zoom in on the pic.

Again - really appreciate the help here. I understand you can't remember everything off the top of your head.

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That isn't a fitting. It's a broken pipe that somebody used a hose to repair. The factory hose is metal with a flex section. Rubber works for awhile. there are better solutions.

 

[Triple802]

That isn't a fitting. It's a broken pipe that somebody used a hose to repair. The factory hose is metal with a flex section. Rubber works for awhile. there are better solutions.

Darn it.
Thanks for the confirmation!


This is it right? If I wanted to replace it...

Mitsubishi Oil Return Line (Turbo to Oil Pan) - 2G DSM

Genuine OEM Mitsubishi factory replacement turbo to oil pan return line for the 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2G DSM Eclipse GST/GSX & Talon TSi Turbo models. Ships worldwide. Buy yours at STM!

stmtuned.com

 

[pauleyman]

Yes

 

[curt-s]

The more difficult and annoying part about doing the pan in the car is that the mating surfaces of block and pan need to be spotless clean of any oil residue or RTV/sealant will not bond correctly. Basically, cleaned with a solvent like brake cleaner on a rag.
The problem with the block side is the oil inside the block likes to seep down and dirty up the spot you just cleaned. You end up with a leak again afterwards..
Just be mindful of how much oil is still sleeping down from inside the engine when you're trying to mate up the oil pan again

 

[Triple802]

The more difficult and annoying part about doing the pan in the car is that the mating surfaces of block and pan need to be spotless clean of any oil residue or RTV/sealant will not bond correctly. Basically, cleaned with a solvent like brake cleaner on a rag.
The problem with the block side is the oil inside the block likes to seep down and dirty up the spot you just cleaned. You end up with a leak again afterwards..
Just be mindful of how much oil is still sleeping down from inside the engine when you're trying to mate up the oil pan again

Appreciate it man. Everything I found said to just use RTV and not an actual gasket. Is there anything to do to mitigate what you mentioned besides just being super careful about keeping the mating surfaces clean / dry?

 

[curt-s]

Soaking up as much as you can on the inside of the casting with lint free rags and solvent based cleaner wiping the mating surfaces, along with some time to let things drain out on their own.. that's about all I know of.

 

[Triple802]

Update:
Down pipe off
Turbo return hose off (ordered a new oem to replace the rubber hose patch job)
All bolts of oil pan off

Now... trying to figure out how to actually break this pan loose without damaging anything. haha.
I can barely get a razor blade anywhere to try and cut through the old RTV. Putty knife doesn't seem to want to go in either.

I'm being very cautious, I'm sure I need to use a bit more force.
I'm not wanting to get out the heat gun yet - worrying about doing damage with it.

I saw somebody else mention using 25# fishing line and working it in a corner until you can get it through and work to the other side. Might try that.

 

[Tiki2777]

First, MAKE SURE all of the bolts are off. I mean all of them. You can search around, plenty of people bent their pans prying at them only to find there's a bolt or two hiding under grease.
Second, unpopular opinion, there are some VERY nice silicone gaskets (reusable) made by some DSM freelancers that work instead of the RTV/Mitsubond method (nothing wrong with using the OE method, note). I'm currently using an AO Customs silicone gasket on my 6 bolt 2.3 liter, because the bozo who caked on a pound of orange RTV did a terrible job. To date.....spotless, no leaks. I only used the silicone gasket, no rtv/sealant, etc.

If you're having issues getting the pan off, try lightly tapping the pan with a rubber mallet. Just don't go nuts and dent the pan. You can also put some gloves on and gently pull and push. Use the razor to clean the block surface (perpendicular, don't attack it on edge/angle and gouge the surface, similar to a headgasket surface.

 

[danl]

Update:


Now... trying to figure out how to actually break this pan loose without damaging anything. haha.
I can barely get a razor blade anywhere to try and cut through the old RTV. Putty knife doesn't seem to want to go in either.

I’ve been meaning to try one of these. If I recall the factory service manual had something similar.

Amazon.com

 

[Triple802]

I’ve been meaning to try one of these. If I recall the factory service manual had something similar.

Amazon.com

Yea, a couple YouTube video's I watched had the guy using a tool like this.

I got lucky and a few more taps with a rubber mallet, and eventually working a putty knife around one side did the trick! Oil pan is off.

Tomorrow, clean the surfaces, reseal and re-assemble.
Then pray that this was the cause of my leak to begin with.

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

He shouldn’t have a carrier bearing its fwd.

Getting them downpipe bolts out looks like it will be the hardest part of the job. Get some heat on them it will help.

Make sure you clean the oil pan surface good. There is a shallow groove in the center of the flange. The bolts snap easy so be careful when you torque it down.

Good luck

Whoops! That explains that, sorry to the OP I have an AWD so it's difficult for me sometimes to remember what overlaps.

That return line is something else!

Yea, a couple YouTube video's I watched had the guy using a tool like this.

I got lucky and a few more taps with a rubber mallet, and eventually working a putty knife around one side did the trick! Oil pan is off.

Tomorrow, clean the surfaces, reseal and re-assemble.
Then pray that this was the cause of my leak to begin with.

I'm sure it was the cause of 1 of many leaks .

That reminds me, I need to order preformed lines for my leaks...