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2G 2G Oil Pan Removal In Car?

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pointblank9957

10+ Year Contributor
284
10
Jul 12, 2012
Sheboygan, Wisconsin
is it possible to remove the oil pan in the car WITHOUT taking the tranny out? 2 or 3 of the bolts are blocked by it..... i have to replace all piston rings because a stuck injector fried them.
 
you can remove the oil pan w/o pullin the trans.. You will need to pull the Tcase though if its AWD..

However I would never recommend changing rings while in the car... You will need a proper hone on the cylinder walls for the new rings to seal, and honing an cylinder while its in the car will be messy and almost certainly impossible to clean up completely and may lead to premature bearing, or oil pump failure.. or even worse... Not a good idea..


How did you determine your rings are bad?? Sure sticking injectors can wash down cylinderwalls but I would venture to say you probably have a different problem...
 
you can remove the oil pan w/o pullin the trans.. You will need to pull the Tcase though if its AWD..

However I would never recommend changing rings while in the car... You will need a proper hone on the cylinder walls for the new rings to seal, and honing an cylinder while its in the car will be messy and almost certainly impossible to clean up completely and may lead to premature bearing, or oil pump failure.. or even worse... Not a good idea..


How did you determine your rings are bad?? Sure sticking injectors can wash down cylinderwalls but I would venture to say you probably have a different problem...

injectors stuck, washed out the oil from the rings and wore out faster than they should have. i did a comp test and it came back with 185, 180, 150, and 190. valves arent burnt, pistons are fine, and its still burning oil. either valve seals or rings, and stuck injectors can't cause valve seals to fail. point is, oil is getting in the cylinder somehow and replacing rings will most likely stop it and restore the compression.
btw this isn't the first time i replaced rings in an engine still in the car.

Edit:


I know nothing about 4g64s.

:p

bottom end is the same as 4g63 except a 6mm higher deck, 100mm stroke, 86.5mm bore, and no oil squirters.
 
Your compression numbers are not so terrible especially if they are cold numbers...

That 150 may come up if it was a cold test... If it was warm id still suspect valves before i suspected bottom end.... Even so at those compression numbers id be more inclined to just run it than go through the work of replacing rings....

To each their own i guess
 
Your compression numbers are not so terrible especially if they are cold numbers...

That 150 may come up if it was a cold test... If it was warm id still suspect valves before i suspected bottom end.... Even so at those compression numbers id be more inclined to just run it than go through the work of replacing rings....

To each their own i guess

well i have the head off and have a DOHC head sitting on my shelf, i might aswell replace the rings while i'm in there, i'm sure theyre worn with over 170000 miles on them LOL.
 
If it has 170000 miles on it, you'll probably need to bore the cylinders. How you're going to do that, and then clean the debris that's all going to land on the crank, is beyond my comprehension, but yeah, the oil pan is removable with the engine and transmission in the car.
 
If it has 170000 miles on it, you'll probably need to bore the cylinders. How you're going to do that, and then clean the debris that's all going to land on the crank, is beyond my comprehension, but yeah, the oil pan is removable with the engine and transmission in the car.

why would i need to bore it? i can still see the crosshatch on the walls and i can just use a glazebreaker and break in the rings
 
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