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Resolved 2G maximum torque and hp?

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That is such an open question, 2 people with completely stock cars can make 2 separate power numbers if ones in the mountains and if ones in the valley just by air density. or if one has slightly better compression in their engine, or if one has a chipped fin on their turbo, or if one person has thicker oil in their engine that slows the rotation. you need to specify exactly what you're trying to accomplish here
 
Can anyone tell me what the maximum torque and hp a 1997 eclipse spyder gs-t fwd m/t can handle before you have add supporting upgrades to the engine?
There is no magic number. Too many variables. 350 to 400 hp at best would be my guess if all supporting mods are done correctly and the motor is in good shape. If you're playing around in this arena most of us dont bother as you've already spent a bunch of money on mods.
What is the goal?
 
My goal is 400 at the rear end. Also, I live in Cleveland Ohio its basically flat

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J Pipe Configuration:Front Mount Intercooler
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Having a GST, you won't make any power at the rear end.. :p

But the question was how much power before you have to add supporting modifications to the engine? Given it's a 2G you're talking T25..

So, not a lot. A fair deal under 300bhp if I'm not mistaken.
 
the vehicle has all wheel drive. What I want know is
, will the engines original components hold up to my build taking the vehicle to 400- 450 whp.
You know pistons, rods, crank bearings, etc.... I'm sure you all knew what I was referring to or did you?
:)
Can anyone tell me what the maximum torque and hp a 1997 eclipse spyder gs-t fwd m/t can handle before you have add supporting upgrades to the engine?

First it's a GST FWD, now it's AWD
"before you have add supporting upgrades" and then now it's the major internals. Both of these declared facts are at odds with their later counterparts.

BUT let's move on from that :)
If you're just talking about doing all the other upgrades but leaving the rotating assembly untouched, as said, it depends on many other factors besides just pistons and rods, but you'll be unlikely to want to do much more than 400bhp. Your window of tolerance diminishes greatly the higher you climb.

Having a 68HTAv3 myself on an 8.5:1, I will say it's a pretty good choice but to get 400awhp you're going to need closer to 500bhp. I would not even dare to try that with stock 7bolt rods.
Just be aware that the 68HTAv3 has bespoke components that are forcedperformance only, so they become your sole repair shop

I'd also go to 1200cc minimum just for the extra leg room, especially if you're on e85.
BR7ES or BPR7ES as well, due to the extra heat from the higher boost level (26+) and timing you'll need.
 
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