The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

ECMlink 2G fresh start after rebuild and tries but fails. is this log helpful?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

FIBA M - EC17PSE

Supporting Vendor
6,753
5,159
Nov 1, 2008
Orlando, Florida
Finally got to try and crank it over after oil and fluids check.

Issue is, it tries to start but conks out. So I check all connections and all good, ignition is good and I check pug wires 3 times to confirm the locations are spot on.

Fuel is there and spark is too, the thing tried to run for a bit maybe a second but then dies out on me!!!

I tried 2 crank sensors and cam sensors to no avail. I checked all connections and I don't see any left off that's not in use any longer.

So just wondering since the ECU has been without a battery for some time is the tune screwed up or is the log showing anything I'm missing as my knowledge on this was slim before and 3 years later now near zero LOL.

Everything in the settings still looks like its setup ok and was how it was, so I'm not really sure on anything else.

If anything in the log shows oddly let me know and I can check this out this week and try again.

Thanks all
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Offhand, Your MAP sensor doesn't move at all.
Could that be why it wont run? Its sat for near 3 years so be shocked if it stopped working being under the bonnet? Let me check the connections again also to make sure i have not missed something on it. I never took the connector out only placed on the firewall

I found one based on a bosch part number so will order that tomorrow.
 
Finally got to try and crank it over after oil and fluids check.

Issue is, it tries to start but conks out. So I check all connections and all good, ignition is good and I check pug wires 3 times to confirm the locations are spot on.

Fuel is there and spark is too, the thing tried to run for a bit maybe a second but then dies out on me!!!

I tried 2 crank sensors and cam sensors to no avail. I checked all connections and I don't see any left off that's not in use any longer.

So just wondering since the ECU has been without a battery for some time is the tune screwed up or is the log showing anything I'm missing as my knowledge on this was slim before and 3 years later now near zero LOL.

Everything in the settings still looks like its setup ok and was how it was, so I'm not really sure on anything else.

If anything in the log shows oddly let me know and I can check this out this week and try again.

Thanks all
Cold - everything is cold. Before you go crazy nuts - try pullin the plugs - warm them up with some fire - (Zippo/Bic lighter)
Throw them back in and crank again. If the plugs are wet, burn them dry and disconnect the injector plugs when you crank to see if it fires and dies. Is the gas 3 years old?
 
I also noted that there didn't seem to be any change in your fuel pressure sensor and I would have expected it too to vary as you were cranking and those should change as you go from ATM to vacuum.

That might lend some weight to a electrical/wiring issue vs a defective sensor even though Omni MAP sensors have been dropping like flys.
 
Cold - everything is cold. Before you go crazy nuts - try pullin the plugs - warm them up with some fire - (Zippo/Bic lighter)
Throw them back in and crank again. If the plugs are wet, burn them dry and disconnect the injector plugs when you crank to see if it fires and dies. Is the gas 3 years old?
Everythings new, fuel fresh today. Plugs and fresh today.

I also noted that there didn't seem to be any change in your fuel pressure sensor and I would have expected it too to vary as you were cranking and those should change as you go from ATM to vacuum.

That might lend some weight to a electrical/wiring issue vs a defective sensor even though Omni MAP sensors have been dropping like flys.
The FP sensor I cannot get logging correctly. Never have been able to for some reason. So i leave it till i can resolve it. Manually gauge is showing me my pressure is good but thats all i got to go on for now, i got the values setup correctly but it just wont read it so i must be doing something wrong

wouldn't be surprised if it fires up with a new MAP sensor. - recent experience.
I will grab a new one and plug that in. Its about £45 here for one but not omni. I can get a bosch also
 
Fresh yes - but 45deg cold. Lightem!
I can do but i dont get this one LOL plugs can be cold and still ignite as it used to in the winter ehen colder. M i missing an old trick as to this warming up your are trying to suggest

It should be fine if that’s it’s max value not all sensors measure exact.

I order my no-name map from EBay- china and it’s advertised as a 0-5v from 0-40psi
And i pressurized the sensor while logging to verify its function and compare it to the dial on my tire gauge.

There’s 1-2-3-4-5 bar options for the Gm and thread in maps online

ps for 5v sensors the values of 0.5-4.5 are very common
Great, I can look into a proper sensor later on but most of these I'm sure are no name and then re-branded it and cost more LOL

I shall buy this one then and get this all wired up hopefully and get them to send me the values for the volts

Thinking of looking into a different MAP sensor type reading up on the plastic ones.

i read they from 0-5V but this one i found is 0-4.5 volts? is this no good then?
 
Thinking of looking into a different MAP sensor type reading up on the plastic ones.

i read they from 0-5V but this one i found is 0-4.5 volts? is this no good then?
It should be fine if that’s it’s max value not all sensors measure exact.

I order my no-name map from EBay- china and it’s advertised as a 0-5v from 0-40psi
And i pressurized the sensor while logging to verify its function and compare it to the dial on my tire gauge.

There’s 1-2-3-4-5 bar options for the Gm and thread in maps online

ps for 5v sensors the values of 0.5-4.5 are very common
 
I can do but i dont get this one LOL plugs can be cold and still ignite as it used to in the winter ehen colder. M i missing an old trick as to this warming up your are trying to suggest
Warming the plugs really helps ignition. First starts are hard because everything is new, everything is a question mark. If you can get it to fire at all - it will answer a lot of initial questions.
 
Warming the plugs really helps ignition. First starts are hard because everything is new, everything is a question mark. If you can get it to fire at all - it will answer a lot of initial questions.
it does try to start and I can get a good 1 second of it, but people said the map sensor is bad so I'm going to swap that out as it really does sound like it's a sensor not picking up to run the engine
 
The AEM 3.5 bar is a good sensor for SD. GM style sensors are a crap shoot if you get a good one or a cheap knock off, and Omni sensors just die often.
I looked at the AEM ones but i got expensive here
My trusted source for WB and MAP.
I did find these also but they look like a generic sensor and priced up LOL same as normal and I'm trying to find things here to work vs from the US to help save time etc etc
 
I looked at the AEM ones but i got expensive here

I did find these also but they look like a generic sensor and priced up LOL same as normal and I'm trying to find things here to work vs from the US to help save time etc etc
Zeitronix was founded by a brilliant guy that supported the DSM community from the very beginning working out of his apartment. He was a regular fixture at RRE DSM meets and events. Brilliant electrical engineer. He is very careful to source the sensors.
 
Zeitronix was founded by a brilliant guy that supported the DSM community from the very beginning working out of his apartment. He was a regular fixture at RRE DSM meets and events. Brilliant electrical engineer. He is very careful to source the sensors.
he was, i met him at a show once here and he was super excited to meet a UK DSM guy! was great to meet him and started getting all pictures out of his cars and we had a good convo on it all. good chap for sure
 
Map sensor never moves. My memory says when they stay locked at max vacuum like yours the sensor is dead. I also see though your logged fuel pressure stays locked at -10 psi to. The car 1000% will not start with a bad map sensor when using speed density. The pin assignments are still saved and everything look's set up correctly. The tune appears in tact from before.
 
Map sensor never moves. My memory says when they stay locked at max vacuum like yours the sensor is dead. I also see though your logged fuel pressure stays locked at -10 psi to. The car 1000% will not start with a bad map sensor when using speed density. The pin assignments are still saved and everything look's set up correctly. The tune appears in tact from before.
Thanks for checking it out.

The fuel pressure i need to work on getting it to log but no matter what i did to set it up it never accepted the volts to readings so manually adding it failed so i stopped trying LOL but i confirmed on my manual gauge and its all good.

As for the mal sensor i was not sure if it would still semi run withit being faulty. I guess sitting not being used for years kills them off LOL seems odd and a bit backwards really! But i got one coming to hopefully see if this can help and then im going to look into a proper sensor that should last longer and not be plastic since people have issues with the plastic ones
 
Thanks for checking it out.

The fuel pressure i need to work on getting it to log but no matter what i did to set it up it never accepted the volts to readings so manually adding it failed so i stopped trying LOL but i confirmed on my manual gauge and its all good.

As for the mal sensor i was not sure if it would still semi run withit being faulty. I guess sitting not being used for years kills them off LOL seems odd and a bit backwards really! But i got one coming to hopefully see if this can help and then im going to look into a proper sensor that should last longer and not be plastic since people have issues with the plastic ones
Map sensors just die. This happens. I have a omni one on my car that is still good after literally 6+ years. I have have seen them bad brand new. I have seen aem's do the same. Generally though i would say they are more reliable though.
 
Managed to get some time on this today, (was meant to be at a car show with the 1G but it decided to crack its windshield sitting there LOL)

So worked on this and fixed a bunch of fuel leaks from sitting and likely old lines even though they WERE new but not if left for a few years.

NEW map sensor went in and it tried to start and I saw the value move so that was good but still NOTHING...

It always tried to catch and run but just does not complete the cycle. I tried a few times and original sensors for the crank and CAS and confirmed its all installed correctly.

This new MAP sensor was what i could find from a decent brand but its from a Kia/Hyundai, unknown bar rating. I am now going to search for the OEM GM part number in hopes I can get one similar here but after that I'm going to get a motorsport stainless MAP sensor and be done!

BUT saying that, if the MAP is now reading and moving surely it would still catch and try to run or does it make a huge difference on map sensor settings and version?

I'm not seeing what it could be while checking the values. I'm out of checking things over manually and to me seeing the map change I thought it was going to run as it nearly did.

I'm going to go back over to a log from a few years ago to check that to todays and see if settings are different or somethings not moving that should be upon start up!

ONE odd thing I noticed today was this! HALF the logged values in link were dull and I had to reselect them all to be logged but the first ones you see were never touched? So how does link deselect them from first log to today and all that happened was the laptop was turned off? This one baffles me as I did nothing to the system for that to happen. Anyone comment on this and why it did that?

Thanks all and for your current responses.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Looking at my logs, the MAP is a bit different from previous times the car ran! It was more central and -18 or so but now its right at the top and -28 so its weird why its like that.

Last log I decided to manually edit the values to what once was as in log #5! but no joy. Everything else seems ok and matches previous settings apart from the coolantadj so that's now as was but I'm a bit lost on this now.

I have ordered a stainless MAP sensor from the US so will be a few weeks before I get this in, so may buy just a like for like GM MAP for now to see if that works and if not I'm going to be forced to shelf this car till I'm in the US. Which I don't want to do as then I got to find this issue and then tune for the US fuels at the same time so more issues to get through!

I'm baffled on this as i know its some kind of sensor issue, it sounds and feel like it is but what one I don't get. LOL
 
So slept on this now and while I THINK it's a sensor or electrical of some kind I'm going to do some basic checks.

Compression test will be one of these. As I got different cams in now, I don't know if these could cause this. They should not be an issue as they are drop in and go and my cams are set to stock on the adjustable gears but its worth a check in case to see if all cylinders are holding pressure.

Then I'm going to go through a bunch of fuses and relays to make sure nothings blown (I did do a basic check first time round) so it's possible I have overlooked something but its good to recheck in case somethings not bolted down, blown or missing for some odd reason. I don't remember removing anything special when I took it apart and only touched the engine bay. But if my MAP sensor can go faulty sitting in the bay then I guess other things can go bad also. Just don't know what LOL

Crank and CAS sensors are new (tried old known working ones also) as to rule this out.
Coolant ECU temp sensor has lived in the house in a box so doubt that's bad.

GM temp sensor seems ok and reading but I think I saw a weird jump in temps. So could that being off be an issue?
 
Just looking at the last log 03.30-07 it does log like you have a couple of electrical problems given the battery voltage and the way the GM Intake Temp and CoolTemp spike. You didn't log the MAP so I couldn't see it it was spiking too but based on what you said about the source of this MAP sensor I'm pretty sure it's output doesn't follow a Omni 4 Bar sensor and that's going to throw the airflow off.

With big injectors a 11.79ms pulse is going to foul the plugs (it's trying to get a 4.4:1 AFR)

Please give us some idea what's different between the multiple log files when you post more than one.
 
Just looking at the last log 03.30-07 it does log like you have a couple of electrical problems given the battery voltage and the way the GM Intake Temp and CoolTemp spike. You didn't log the MAP so I couldn't see it it was spiking too but based on what you said about the source of this MAP sensor I'm pretty sure it's output doesn't follow a Omni 4 Bar sensor and that's going to throw the airflow off.

With big injectors a 11.79ms pulse is going to foul the plugs (it's trying to get a 4.4:1 AFR)

Please give us some idea what's different between the multiple log files when you post more than one.
Hey Steve, MAP is logged as I can see it is and i made sure it was re selected and now does move thankfully but since its NOT an omni i may need to adjust to user defined or try a smaller version

the battery is a small pc680 so is fine but can get a tad weaker on starting but gives many good attempts at it.

as for the injectors do I need to adjust for this? I must admit this section is an unknown to me. I don't know how to read that part, I did adjust the coolant temp fuel adjust table but is there an ideal on this as if its over fueling then its going to cause a hard start i assume?

I saw the temp spikes and not sure on those as to the meaning. so that signal faulty sensors? i mean if they really went then damn even the OEM was brand spanking new! i find it hard to believe those two died sitting doing nothing. the ecu sensor was in the house in a bag where as the GM was in the bay in the pipe still. I would need to check an older log to see if they spikes back then but generally spiking on those two means what from your understanding?
 
@steve just bought a bunch of spare NEW sensors. should be here for this weekend. I have a new MAP sensor coming from the US (Motorsport version) i tried one here but its poor quality so this guy has great results and even got back to me on a sunday so grabbed a map and fuel sensor since mine don't work anyway (crappy one i think)

so i can at least trial the other sensors this weekend but will read up on the injectors over fueling on start up and see how to lower that down
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top