1G 2G awd transmission on a fwd help

[The_Technomancer]

I have a 1G FWD that I've been running with a 2G AWD trans that has a welded diff, according to whoever sold it to me. I daily drove it for a couple of months, but I'm kinda getting tired of the cons of a welded diff. Would I be continue to be able to run the AWD transmission on my FWD if I get an LSD, or is having it welded my only option? I've searched on a lot of different places but havent gotten a definitive answer, and I'd like to know it'll work before spending $1k+ on a front diff. Thanks in advance

 

[pauleyman]

I have a 1G FWD that I've been running with a 2G AWD trans that has a welded diff, according to whoever sold it to me. I daily drove it for a couple of months, but I'm kinda getting tired of the cons of a welded diff. Would I be continue to be able to run the AWD transmission on my FWD if I get an LSD, or is having it welded my only option? I've searched on a lot of different places but havent gotten a definitive answer, and I'd like to know it'll work before spending $1k+ on a front diff. Thanks in advance

I'm not sure I understand your concern. There are non cons when using fwd. No more so than a fwd trans anyway. What is your concern? If you want a front LSD you can certainly add one.

 

[Mello]

AWD tranny has two differential, a center diff for power to front & rear & then a front diff for left & right. There's also a third diff which is in the back for left & right. My guess is the weld diff is the center diff which need to be weld so you get power to the front when there is no rear driven loads.

 

[The_Technomancer]

The diff is welded, making sharp turns near impossible, causes premature wear on suspension components and the axles lifespan also shortens. The fact that both tires will always spin at exactly the same speed makes it a pain on twisty roads/rainy days

 

[pauleyman]

The diff is welded, making sharp turns near impossible, causes premature wear on suspension components and the axles lifespan also shortens. The fact that both tires will always spin at exactly the same speed makes it a pain on twisty roads/rainy days

If you're binding and the car is fwd then either something is wrong or you have a welded front diff also. Center diff welded to run in fwd mode will not cause binding.

 

[NWHTanK]

The awd trans has 2 diffs in the trans. A center diff for awd and a front diff for the front wheels . Welding and and other means to the center diff creates full lock up. In a front wheel drive application that needs to stay or the car won't move. The 2g awd trans came from the factory with a open front diff ( no lock up). You have options on the front factory open, a rare evo rs (1-3). Or a aftermarket front locking diff. To replace a front diff a trans tear down is in order and requires some minor parts replacement ( recommended).

Oh and forgot. If looking for a front diff. Then it must be a awd front diff. Fwd diffs and awd front diffs are diffrent.

 

[The_Technomancer]

Sorry for the incorrect wording but yes, the front diff is what's welded I believe. The hole where the transfer case input shaft would go is plugged. Here's some pictures of when I bought the trans. But yes, If I can run an AWD front LSD on this trans and use it in FWD mode, then I'll buy it asap tbh.

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[pauleyman]

It's no different than running an lsd on awd. The center is requires to be welded to do what you're doing. That hole welded up is of no consequence to what you're experiencing.
Buy whatever diff you feel is appropriate but it must be for an awd trans

 

[twicks69]

Take a flashlight and look in the axle holes. What do you see. You need the center diff welded to make it run in FWD. You could have anything from someone installing a full LSD diff in it before (KAAZ DBM2010, Quaife QDH8B, Ralliart clutch type, or Cusco clutch type options), or a Phantom Grip spring/plate insert in an open diff, or someone actually welded the front diff too, or an open diff.

Or, you can disassemble and actually inspect what is going on with your front diff by removing it and confirming what you have.

The phantom grip insert can sometimes be clunky, and the welded front diff would be very difficult to do turning with because the wheel speeds would be fixed causing binding while turning. You should have no turning issues with any of the real LSD options or an open diff, unless you have something physically damaged internally causing problems.

 

[luv2rallye]

^^^Note that Twicks69 is the transaxle guru on here as he repairs and modifies them.

 

[twicks69]

For notes, it may be tough to see the Phantom grip through the axle holes, use a couple of flashlights to thoroughly inspect if you aren't taking apart the transmission.

I have attached pictures of a stock open diff vs a phantom grip insert in a stock diff. I also added one of a real LSD (one in picture is a billet Ralliart diff. You can see that it looks quite different than an open diff when looking through axle seals).

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Also, this will be useful for you.

Here are the instructions for the front diff replacement:

Download the transmission service manual for your trans -- W5M33 --

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-2g-dsm-manual-transmission-and-transfer-case-rebuild-service-manual.517367/

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-2g-dsm-manual-transmission-and-transfer-case-rebuild-factory-mechanics-training-service-manual.517370/

http://www.3sx.com/faq/manuals/Service-Manual-Transmission-FWD-Mitsubishi-Manual.pdf

Then, get the tools required for the job:

Special tools:
snapring pliers (Proto 250g horseshoe washer / lock ring pliers is one of the ones I use)
OTC 1122 bearing splitter and OTC 7393 push-puller (do a google search) - used for removing the 5th intermediate gear without damaging it.
36mm socket (end shaft nuts)
T50 Torx socket
10mm socket
12mm socket or swivel socket
14mm deep socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
24mm deep socket or wrench
swivel-head socket attachment
short 3-4" extension
6" extension (use with 14mm deep socket for removal of the gear cluster case section bolts from bellhousing)
2 prybars (for gently removing 5th/Rev hub and slider assembly, and separating case sections)
3/16" straight blade flathead screwdriver (use with hammer to unstake the 5th gear shaft nuts before removal)
1/2" impact or cordless impact
3/8" impact or cordless impact
3/8" ratchet
3/16" roll pin punches
hammer or mini-sledge
dead-blow hammer
Permatex Ultra Grey or Ultra Black RTV silicone
Brake-cleaner for degreasing purposes

These are the majority of the tools required for teardown.


For W5M33 transmissions:

Drain the transmission, and place the trans on a draining tray or layers of cardboard, or something to soak up the residual gear oil, and orient on a comfortable height work surface with the bellhousing side facing down. You will still get more gear oil out of the trans, so use some towels to plug the driver-side axle seal, and have extras under the output shaft area.

Now, remove the 5th gear cover (9 short bolts and 2 long bolts) with a 14mm deep socket. Place prybar between drain plug and the case casting to gently separate the 5th gear cover from the bearing plate, and remove the cover. Please note the reverse wave spring should still be clipped onto the reverse cone on the cover.

Manually shift the transmission into reverse and keep a hand pushing down on the reverse synchro so that the slider engages it (or you can use a roll pin punch and hammer and remove the roll pin from the 5th/Rev shift fork and manually shift the transmission into 1st and 5th) to lock the transmission. Then, unstake the shaft nuts with the straight blade 3/16" flathead screwdriver, clean out the stake areas on the shafts of any debris (use compressed air and a rag to cover from making a mess) and then using a 1/2" impact and 36mm socket, remove the end shaft nuts from 5th gear and 5th intermediate gear.

If the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin is still installed, remove it using a 5mm or 3/16" roll pin punch and hammer. It is best to use the pin punch and pound the pin outward as you may get it stuck in the hub assembly if you don't know what you are doing. The 97-99 style 5/R forks have an offset roll pin so you can pound it out either direction and it won't get jammed on the 5/R hub. If it is a standard orientation, pound the roll pin out away from the 5/R hub and use a vise grips pliers to grab the roll pin and gently work out rotating back and forth while pulling it out. After roll pin is removed, shift back to neutral and push down on the reverse synchro again.

Using two small prybars, gently separate the 5th/Rev hub and slider by placing the prybars between the 5th gear and the 5th gear synchro so that you do not damage the 5th gear synchro. Evenly and gently pry upwards while guiding the 5th/Rev shift fork upwards off the shift rail. Once the hub and slider assembly has been removed, remove the 5th gear synchro, 5th and 5th gear split needle bearing.

Using your snapring pliers, remove the viscous coupler snapring, and use your two prybars to remove the viscous coupler, EVENLY PRYING UPWARDS in a few steps to raise it up and remove it, then use your pen magnet and remove the detent ball from the output shaft hole of the center diff.

Now, remove the 5th intermediate gear; NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE 5TH INTERMEDIATE GEAR FOR REASSEMBLY, THE FLANGE FACES UP!!. It should be easy to remove by hand, or hard to remove requiring special tools -- DO NOT PRY THE GEAR OFF!!! YOU WILL CHIP THE TEETH! Use the proper tool. That would be an OTC 1122 bearing splitter and OTC 7393 push-puller tool by inserting the jaws on the top flange of the 5th intermediate gear and then remove the gear.


You should now have everything off of the 5th gear side of the trans case.

Remove the reverse switch (24mm wrench), remove the reverse lockout bolt on the gear cluster case section (19mm), remove the three shift detent poppet plugs (14mm)/springs/detent balls (using a pen magnet), and reverse idler gear bolt (14mm or T50 Torx bolt next to front differential passenger-side axle seal).

Remove the bearing plate case section gently by hitting the triangular point of the case with a dead-blow hammer to break the RTV silicone bond, then using two prybars evenly spreading the case gently upward. Remove bearing plate.
You can now pull out the center differential by hand, simply pull upwards and it will come out easily.

Next, remove the main case section by removing all the 12 case bolts with a 14mm deep socket and swivel head attachment or 6" extension. Once removed, use your two prybars and evenly and gently separate the case section by starting at the pry point by the clutch fork boot and then working around the case with your prybars to separate the section from the front differential and the bellhousing.

After the gear cluster case section is removed, and the main case oil guide is removed,
***NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE REVERSE IDLER GEAR*** You will need to have the reverse idler shaft oriented properly so that the reverse idler gear shaft bolt properly reinstalls -- note the direction that is required so it matches up with the transmission case for easy installation.

Remove front differential.
Remove output shaft and output pinion shaft and needle bearing.


If necessary for cleaning purposes or further inspection, follow the instructions below to remove the gear clusters:

Now, with the case removed, lift up on the reverse idler gear shaft and remove the shaft, then slide out the gear and remove the key from the reverse linkage arm. Remove the two 12mm bolts that attach the reverse linkage arm to the bellhousing. Remove the linkage arm.

Now, using your roll pin punch, remove the roll pins for the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks. Using your hands or gently using small prybars, orient the 5th/Rev rail end first by pulling upward and away from the shift selector (away from the other two rail ends). While the 5th/Rev rail end is up/away, do the same with the 3/4 rail end so that it clears the shift selector assembly. With the 1st/2nd rail end, go the OPPOSITE DIRECTION and gently move it away from the other two rail ends so that you can slightly modulate the shift selector to clear all three rail ends. Pull up. All the gear clusters and shift rails/rail ends/forks will come up as one single unit.

Reassembly:

Clean case sections thoroughly.

Reinstall the output pinion shaft and needle bearing with output shaft, then the front differential (and put the shim on the top roller bearing or in the case section with a bit of assembly lube).

Assemble the gear clusters with the shift forks just like how you removed them originally. Reinstall the cluster assembly, modulate the shift rail ends just like how you removed them to get them all back to centered orienation with the 1/2 on the left side of the shift selector, the 3/4 on the center of the shift selector and the 5th/rev on the right side of the shift selector in the neutral position.

Reinstall new roll pins.

Reinstall the reverse linkage arm and 12mm bolts - 16-18 ft/lb torque. Reinstall the reverse linkage key, idler gear and slide the idler gear shaft back into the oiling detent with the bolt hole orientation towards the front diff properly so it aligns with the main case section.

Reinstall the trash magnet tray if it was removed.

RTV silicone the case section flange evenly with a thin bead of Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV silicone. Otherwise, using your finger, evenly spread a thin coat on the case section flange so that all contact area is evenly covered with the RTV silicone.

Reinstall the case section making sure that you have the magnet tray reinstalled in the bellhousing and the black plastic oiling guide reinstalled on the case section before placing back on to the bellhousing case section.

Reinstall the reverse idler gear bolt to 29 ft/lb torque. (Tapered end bolt with aluminum flat washer). Use a long screwdriver to align the reverse idler gear rail to make it easier to install the bolt.

Reinstall the 14mm bolts that attach the main case section to the bellhousing and start the bolts evenly to hand-tight. Then torque evenly (star pattern works) to 29 ft/lb

Reinstall the 19mm reverse lockout switch bolt (19mm head with spring-loaded detent ball on the end and aluminum flat washer) to 22-29 lb/ft torque. This crush washer should be replaced with another 1mm thick crush washer, if it is crushed too much it will cause shifting issues for the reverse lockout bolt.

Reinstall the center differential, then RTV the bearing plate case section and gear cluster case section surfaces.

Reinstall 5th intermediate gear (GENTLY TAP IT DOWN!!!) and then 5th gear split needle bearings/5th gear (make sure they are lubed up!!). Reinstall the 5th/Reverse hub and slider gently/evenly with 5th and reverse synchros oriented properly with the keyways so it does not bind up or get damaged. Slide the hub and slider back on WITH THE 5th/Rev shift fork at the same time being installed onto the 5th/Rev rail.

Reinstall the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin.

Reinstall the viscous coupler detent ball, and align the detent on the output shaft with the detent ball to recess it -- you can use a 1" thick block under the transmission bellhousing to space it, then use a prybar to act as a lever to raise or lower the output shaft to make this easier. Then, reinstall the viscous coupler so the detents match the detent ball keyway. Install a new viscous coupler snapring.

Manually shift the transmission into reverse (OR like last time, before reinstalling the roll pin, shift the transmission into 1st manually, then into 5th gear with your hand engaging the hub/slider onto 5th).

Install new end shaft nuts to 102-115 ft/lb torque.

Ping the detents with either a punch/hammer or a small point punch on an air hammer GENTLY for both end shaft nuts.

RTV transmission case flange for 5th gear cover and bearing plate.

Be sure your reverse wave spring is still in place and reverse synchro is properly reinstalled.

Be sure that you have the roll pin back in the 5th/Rev shift fork, and that the transmission is back in the neutral position.

Reinstall 5th gear cover and 14mm bolts to 29 ft/lb torque evenly just like the main case bolts starting them all by hand first to finger tight.

Reinstall the 24mm reverse switch (plug head with 24mm hex-shape body and aluminum flat washer -- DO NOT FORGET THE WASHER, this crush washer should be replaced with another 1mm thick crush washer, if it is crushed too much it will cause shifting issues into 5th/Reverse) to 22-25 ft/lb torque.

Reinstall fill / drain plugs with new crush washers, 22-25 ft/lb torque is fine.

This is a quick rundown of directions for replacement of a front differential (and disassembly/inspection) for an AWD turbo 5-speed transmission for a 4G63 AWD turbo DSM 1991-1999.

If you are needing the Quaife LSD front diff to install, I have them in stock, along with the necessary bearings as well as the speedometer gear I have manufactured. As you can see from the pictures previously added, the OEM open front diff has the speedo gear cast into the housing. You need the MD717879 speedo gear to have your speedometer function, and it gets heated up and pressed onto the differential during assembly.

In your case, you would be using a Quaife QDH8B differential with MD706566 (6207 style) roller bearings, and then the MD717879 speedo gear.

Here is a product link with the needed install parts - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/quaife-lsd-front-differential-for-awd-dsmevo-1-3gvr4-qdh8b/

Thanks,
TMZ

 

[The_Technomancer]

Transmission is currently on the car, so I havent really been able to verify just yet (I'm daily driving it) . However, I strongly believe it's welded up and doesnt have an insert, as it's awful to turn at low speeds, it binds a ton and both wheels are locked at the same speed always. Thanks for the valuable info, I'll keep it saved for when I decide to go down the LSD route

 

[The_Technomancer]

For notes, it may be tough to see the Phantom grip through the axle holes, use a couple of flashlights to thoroughly inspect if you aren't taking apart the transmission.

I have attached pictures of a stock open diff vs a phantom grip insert in a stock diff. I also added one of a real LSD (one in picture is a billet Ralliart diff. You can see that it looks quite different than an open diff when looking through axle seals).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also, this will be useful for you.

Here are the instructions for the front diff replacement:

Download the transmission service manual for your trans -- W5M33 --

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-2g-dsm-manual-transmission-and-transfer-case-rebuild-service-manual.517367/

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-2g-dsm-manual-transmission-and-transfer-case-rebuild-factory-mechanics-training-service-manual.517370/

http://www.3sx.com/faq/manuals/Service-Manual-Transmission-FWD-Mitsubishi-Manual.pdf

Then, get the tools required for the job:

Special tools:
snapring pliers (Proto 250g horseshoe washer / lock ring pliers is one of the ones I use)
OTC 1122 bearing splitter and OTC 7393 push-puller (do a google search) - used for removing the 5th intermediate gear without damaging it.
36mm socket (end shaft nuts)
T50 Torx socket
10mm socket
12mm socket or swivel socket
14mm deep socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
24mm deep socket or wrench
swivel-head socket attachment
short 3-4" extension
6" extension (use with 14mm deep socket for removal of the gear cluster case section bolts from bellhousing)
2 prybars (for gently removing 5th/Rev hub and slider assembly, and separating case sections)
3/16" straight blade flathead screwdriver (use with hammer to unstake the 5th gear shaft nuts before removal)
1/2" impact or cordless impact
3/8" impact or cordless impact
3/8" ratchet
3/16" roll pin punches
hammer or mini-sledge
dead-blow hammer
Permatex Ultra Grey or Ultra Black RTV silicone
Brake-cleaner for degreasing purposes

These are the majority of the tools required for teardown.


For W5M33 transmissions:

Drain the transmission, and place the trans on a draining tray or layers of cardboard, or something to soak up the residual gear oil, and orient on a comfortable height work surface with the bellhousing side facing down. You will still get more gear oil out of the trans, so use some towels to plug the driver-side axle seal, and have extras under the output shaft area.

Now, remove the 5th gear cover (9 short bolts and 2 long bolts) with a 14mm deep socket. Place prybar between drain plug and the case casting to gently separate the 5th gear cover from the bearing plate, and remove the cover. Please note the reverse wave spring should still be clipped onto the reverse cone on the cover.

Manually shift the transmission into reverse and keep a hand pushing down on the reverse synchro so that the slider engages it (or you can use a roll pin punch and hammer and remove the roll pin from the 5th/Rev shift fork and manually shift the transmission into 1st and 5th) to lock the transmission. Then, unstake the shaft nuts with the straight blade 3/16" flathead screwdriver, clean out the stake areas on the shafts of any debris (use compressed air and a rag to cover from making a mess) and then using a 1/2" impact and 36mm socket, remove the end shaft nuts from 5th gear and 5th intermediate gear.

If the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin is still installed, remove it using a 5mm or 3/16" roll pin punch and hammer. It is best to use the pin punch and pound the pin outward as you may get it stuck in the hub assembly if you don't know what you are doing. The 97-99 style 5/R forks have an offset roll pin so you can pound it out either direction and it won't get jammed on the 5/R hub. If it is a standard orientation, pound the roll pin out away from the 5/R hub and use a vise grips pliers to grab the roll pin and gently work out rotating back and forth while pulling it out. After roll pin is removed, shift back to neutral and push down on the reverse synchro again.

Using two small prybars, gently separate the 5th/Rev hub and slider by placing the prybars between the 5th gear and the 5th gear synchro so that you do not damage the 5th gear synchro. Evenly and gently pry upwards while guiding the 5th/Rev shift fork upwards off the shift rail. Once the hub and slider assembly has been removed, remove the 5th gear synchro, 5th and 5th gear split needle bearing.

Using your snapring pliers, remove the viscous coupler snapring, and use your two prybars to remove the viscous coupler, EVENLY PRYING UPWARDS in a few steps to raise it up and remove it, then use your pen magnet and remove the detent ball from the output shaft hole of the center diff.

Now, remove the 5th intermediate gear; NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE 5TH INTERMEDIATE GEAR FOR REASSEMBLY, THE FLANGE FACES UP!!. It should be easy to remove by hand, or hard to remove requiring special tools -- DO NOT PRY THE GEAR OFF!!! YOU WILL CHIP THE TEETH! Use the proper tool. That would be an OTC 1122 bearing splitter and OTC 7393 push-puller tool by inserting the jaws on the top flange of the 5th intermediate gear and then remove the gear.


You should now have everything off of the 5th gear side of the trans case.

Remove the reverse switch (24mm wrench), remove the reverse lockout bolt on the gear cluster case section (19mm), remove the three shift detent poppet plugs (14mm)/springs/detent balls (using a pen magnet), and reverse idler gear bolt (14mm or T50 Torx bolt next to front differential passenger-side axle seal).

Remove the bearing plate case section gently by hitting the triangular point of the case with a dead-blow hammer to break the RTV silicone bond, then using two prybars evenly spreading the case gently upward. Remove bearing plate.
You can now pull out the center differential by hand, simply pull upwards and it will come out easily.

Next, remove the main case section by removing all the 12 case bolts with a 14mm deep socket and swivel head attachment or 6" extension. Once removed, use your two prybars and evenly and gently separate the case section by starting at the pry point by the clutch fork boot and then working around the case with your prybars to separate the section from the front differential and the bellhousing.

After the gear cluster case section is removed, and the main case oil guide is removed,
***NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE REVERSE IDLER GEAR*** You will need to have the reverse idler shaft oriented properly so that the reverse idler gear shaft bolt properly reinstalls -- note the direction that is required so it matches up with the transmission case for easy installation.

Remove front differential.
Remove output shaft and output pinion shaft and needle bearing.


If necessary for cleaning purposes or further inspection, follow the instructions below to remove the gear clusters:

Now, with the case removed, lift up on the reverse idler gear shaft and remove the shaft, then slide out the gear and remove the key from the reverse linkage arm. Remove the two 12mm bolts that attach the reverse linkage arm to the bellhousing. Remove the linkage arm.

Now, using your roll pin punch, remove the roll pins for the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks. Using your hands or gently using small prybars, orient the 5th/Rev rail end first by pulling upward and away from the shift selector (away from the other two rail ends). While the 5th/Rev rail end is up/away, do the same with the 3/4 rail end so that it clears the shift selector assembly. With the 1st/2nd rail end, go the OPPOSITE DIRECTION and gently move it away from the other two rail ends so that you can slightly modulate the shift selector to clear all three rail ends. Pull up. All the gear clusters and shift rails/rail ends/forks will come up as one single unit.

Reassembly:

Clean case sections thoroughly.

Reinstall the output pinion shaft and needle bearing with output shaft, then the front differential (and put the shim on the top roller bearing or in the case section with a bit of assembly lube).

Assemble the gear clusters with the shift forks just like how you removed them originally. Reinstall the cluster assembly, modulate the shift rail ends just like how you removed them to get them all back to centered orienation with the 1/2 on the left side of the shift selector, the 3/4 on the center of the shift selector and the 5th/rev on the right side of the shift selector in the neutral position.

Reinstall new roll pins.

Reinstall the reverse linkage arm and 12mm bolts - 16-18 ft/lb torque. Reinstall the reverse linkage key, idler gear and slide the idler gear shaft back into the oiling detent with the bolt hole orientation towards the front diff properly so it aligns with the main case section.

Reinstall the trash magnet tray if it was removed.

RTV silicone the case section flange evenly with a thin bead of Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV silicone. Otherwise, using your finger, evenly spread a thin coat on the case section flange so that all contact area is evenly covered with the RTV silicone.

Reinstall the case section making sure that you have the magnet tray reinstalled in the bellhousing and the black plastic oiling guide reinstalled on the case section before placing back on to the bellhousing case section.

Reinstall the reverse idler gear bolt to 29 ft/lb torque. (Tapered end bolt with aluminum flat washer). Use a long screwdriver to align the reverse idler gear rail to make it easier to install the bolt.

Reinstall the 14mm bolts that attach the main case section to the bellhousing and start the bolts evenly to hand-tight. Then torque evenly (star pattern works) to 29 ft/lb

Reinstall the 19mm reverse lockout switch bolt (19mm head with spring-loaded detent ball on the end and aluminum flat washer) to 22-29 lb/ft torque. This crush washer should be replaced with another 1mm thick crush washer, if it is crushed too much it will cause shifting issues for the reverse lockout bolt.

Reinstall the center differential, then RTV the bearing plate case section and gear cluster case section surfaces.

Reinstall 5th intermediate gear (GENTLY TAP IT DOWN!!!) and then 5th gear split needle bearings/5th gear (make sure they are lubed up!!). Reinstall the 5th/Reverse hub and slider gently/evenly with 5th and reverse synchros oriented properly with the keyways so it does not bind up or get damaged. Slide the hub and slider back on WITH THE 5th/Rev shift fork at the same time being installed onto the 5th/Rev rail.

Reinstall the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin.

Reinstall the viscous coupler detent ball, and align the detent on the output shaft with the detent ball to recess it -- you can use a 1" thick block under the transmission bellhousing to space it, then use a prybar to act as a lever to raise or lower the output shaft to make this easier. Then, reinstall the viscous coupler so the detents match the detent ball keyway. Install a new viscous coupler snapring.

Manually shift the transmission into reverse (OR like last time, before reinstalling the roll pin, shift the transmission into 1st manually, then into 5th gear with your hand engaging the hub/slider onto 5th).

Install new end shaft nuts to 102-115 ft/lb torque.

Ping the detents with either a punch/hammer or a small point punch on an air hammer GENTLY for both end shaft nuts.

RTV transmission case flange for 5th gear cover and bearing plate.

Be sure your reverse wave spring is still in place and reverse synchro is properly reinstalled.

Be sure that you have the roll pin back in the 5th/Rev shift fork, and that the transmission is back in the neutral position.

Reinstall 5th gear cover and 14mm bolts to 29 ft/lb torque evenly just like the main case bolts starting them all by hand first to finger tight.

Reinstall the 24mm reverse switch (plug head with 24mm hex-shape body and aluminum flat washer -- DO NOT FORGET THE WASHER, this crush washer should be replaced with another 1mm thick crush washer, if it is crushed too much it will cause shifting issues into 5th/Reverse) to 22-25 ft/lb torque.

Reinstall fill / drain plugs with new crush washers, 22-25 ft/lb torque is fine.

This is a quick rundown of directions for replacement of a front differential (and disassembly/inspection) for an AWD turbo 5-speed transmission for a 4G63 AWD turbo DSM 1991-1999.

If you are needing the Quaife LSD front diff to install, I have them in stock, along with the necessary bearings as well as the speedometer gear I have manufactured. As you can see from the pictures previously added, the OEM open front diff has the speedo gear cast into the housing. You need the MD717879 speedo gear to have your speedometer function, and it gets heated up and pressed onto the differential during assembly.

In your case, you would be using a Quaife QDH8B differential with MD706566 (6207 style) roller bearings, and then the MD717879 speedo gear.

Here is a product link with the needed install parts - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/quaife-lsd-front-differential-for-awd-dsmevo-1-3gvr4-qdh8b/

Thanks,
TMZ

So I was finally able to take the transmission out, and this is what it looks like. That looks like a regular open diff, if I understood that correctly? Now I'm confused, IDK what part of it is "welded" now.

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[pauleyman]

if the gears are welded to the housing you likely won't see it from there. You will have to take the trans apart.

 

[twicks69]

Easy way, slap an axle in it and try spinning an axle. Do they free spin installed into the diff?

 

[TuskeeTuner]

I have a Phantom Grip LSD insert in an F5M33 that Team RIP was selling back in 2006. Would like to have it installed into my W5M33 while it's out. Do people still use LSD inserts in their transmissions?