20g stock car

[mitsubishimanic]

so i need a new turbo for my talon its a stock 1g tsi awd. my friends has a tdo6h that he will sell me for a 100 dollars. if i get it how will it preform will there be bad boost lag he has a tubular header for 150 as well.i can get it all but is it too much for a stock system. i will only be running 10 psi. untill i get all the supporting mods. basically how will it affect my car and how will it preform.

 

[gusu]

I'd wait for fuel mods before installing the 20g or stay out of boost.

 

[bryanwheat]

Pretty simple, without any supporting mods you will blow your engine.

 

[quiksilver20004]

you can run 15psi safely on a stock motor, the lag wont be all that bad but it will really free up your top end. Are you running a FMIC? I was running a stock 6 bolt with RC550 injectors and an EVO 3 big 16g running 23psi walbro 255 and a tune and made 350 brake HP. The only issue at this point that you would have with running over 15psi is that the fuel pump cant keep up. I drove mine daily on 20psi for a long time and never had any issues whatsoever.

 

[bryanwheat]

15 psi out of a 20g on stock pump and injectors is pushing it. There are tons of 14b's out there for 100 bucks, why risk it?

 

[ILL122]

You can run as big of turbo as you want on the stock motor as long as you keep the boost low. It wont benefit you on the low end though. I would at least get a wally 255 and run a larger return to your fuel pump(to keep base pressure down because of the 255). After that I would get larger injectors and dial in your fuel pressure and rock out.

 

[bryanwheat]

You don't need a new return line for a 255. You need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. The stock return line is plenty sufficient. Also to run larger injectors you need at least an safc (not the best idea) or dsmlink.

 

[H@xtGSX]

I'm running an SAFC on 550's with a 14b in a 2g. It's plenty accurate for lower power applications... SAFC's don't really become much of a problem until you start blowing a hell of a lot of air and hitting fuel cut even with the cheater. ECMLink is a much better option if you can afford it... because with a 20g, you'll be moving a lot of air and tuning it to run good through the whole rpm band would be difficult at best with an SAFC.

 

[bryanwheat]

The problem with the safc is that you can't run big injectors with it. The bigger the injectors, the less airflow the ecu see's, the more aggressive timing you will have. It doesn't have anything to do with fuel cut or anything like that.

 

[ILL122]

You don't need a new return line for a 255. You need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. The stock return line is plenty sufficient. Also to run larger injectors you need at least an safc (not the best idea) or dsmlink.

Im not saying your wrong, but when I put my 20g on my car(8 years ago) I was running an safc, 255 and a front mount. I didnt have an afpr so all I did was run a larger return line and my pressure dropped and we were able to tune it better.(egt tuning of course). I agree that afpr, larger injectors, and link, would be the way to go, but I thought it was a budget minded kind of question.

 

[bryanwheat]

How did you know what your pressure was if you didn't have an aftermarket regulator? Regardless of what size fuel line you have you will still over run the stock regulator at lower rpm's.

 

[ILL122]

How did you know what your pressure was if you didn't have an aftermarket regulator? Regardless of what size fuel line you have you will still over run the stock regulator at lower rpm's.

Back then the regulator was about $300.00 and an inline guage was $10.00
Your right, but the 20g spools up a little later than stock(lower rpm range)

 

[H@xtGSX]

The problem with the safc is that you can't run big injectors with it. The bigger the injectors, the less airflow the ecu see's, the more aggressive timing you will have. It doesn't have anything to do with fuel cut or anything like that.

Hmm... that makes a lot more sense than the way it was initially explained to me... I just started using the one I have. Works good for 550's, but you're right, I would't go running more than a 16g on one since it's just cheating the airflow signal. I didn't think of the timing issue. I'll have to do some more reading now...

Thanks!

 

[ILL122]

Im not saying your wrong, but when I put my 20g on my car(8 years ago) I was running an safc, 255 and a front mount. I didnt have an afpr so all I did was run a larger return line and my pressure dropped and we were able to tune it better.(egt tuning of course). I agree that afpr, larger injectors, and link, would be the way to go, but I thought it was a budget minded kind of question.

I forgot to mention I was running MAFT. My whole budget minded theory just flew out the window.

If you want the 20g buy it. Wait to put it on until you get a better fuel system and a way to adjust a/f ratios

 

[JusMX141]

10psi on a TD06H 20G? You're going to hate your life. You're giving up around 1500 rpms of usable power for airflow that you'll never use at 10psi.

The powerband will basically be: "Waaaaiiiit, waaaaiiiit, waaaaiiiit.....aww. "


If the TD06H turbo is a good core and you're interested in trading down to something more suited to your lack of supporting mods, PM me and we'll have a nice conversation.

 

[OH91awd]

i have a 20g on my tsi... stock engine (255 lph, evo pink 560cc, safc, fmic and fpr) @15psi and its spool time isnt bad at all imo...but i do agree that you should have fuel upgrades before you install a 20g.

 

[honda_burner]

I think the bottom line here is that you would be an idiot not to buy that turbo for a hundred bucks! (Unless its got shaft play then disregard this whole post) even if u don't/can't use it right now a 20g for a hundred bucks is a hard thing to come by. I would buy that thing in a second and if you don't, then give him my number and ill gladly pay the cash for it.

 

[tal0n]

100 bucks for the 20g is really cheap. if i were you id get the turbo and forget about the header. use all the extra money you saved up by getting a cheap turbo and invest in fuel/cooling mods.

 

[mitsubishimanic]

ok i know running 10 psi isnt going to kill my engine i dont know why people say that. i just saw a hell of an opportunity with how cheap it was its in amazing condition no shaft play at all. i need a turbo cus mine fried and all i wanted to know is how bad it woulld preform on a stock system. im getting in becouse its a steal of a deal. hes throwing the header in for free too. im going too keep the boost low untill i get supporting mods. im not about to destroy my dream car.

 

[hurricanecris24]

This thread is full of misinformation.

 

[Bud92gsx]

You could lways buy the 20g and put it away for a awhile..Buy a 14b and install it untill you can get your supporting mods to safely run the 20g,and run more than 10 psi..

Cause Like Justin said the 20g on a stock car is gonna be " Wait for it,"wait for it, wait for it, awww"

Your going to suffer drasticaly in the lower rpm range, not really to pick up much at all up top on 10 psi..
But if you really want to talk turbo's..Pm Justin, He will learn you real good..

Chris is correct this thread is full of misinformation..Like the post that said your going to blow your motor with the 20g..Not on 10psi, but the lag is gonna kill you..

 

[99gst_racer]

The powerband will basically be: "Waaaaiiiit, waaaaiiiit, waaaaiiiit.....aww. "

So true.

 

[mitsubishimanic]

k its cool any way dude backed out. he wreacked his talon and has been thinking about parting it out he changed his mind for the hundreth time and wants to find a shell now.
this thread is full of misinformation thanks for those with helpful advice.

 

[mitsubishimanic]

Ok so i got it. Header and all ill post pics tomorrow. also i belive it is an evo 3 16g not a 20g.

 

[Tyeler18]

For $100 it sounds like an Egay turbo.