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2 cylinders won't work

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awzer2

10+ Year Contributor
255
0
Nov 4, 2009
palm desert, California
Here is my question!
Can i use a 95" GST ECM in my 97" GST??

My current ECM is not letting the 2 and 3 coils spark.
We have been working on this stupid problem for 2 months!
[me and another dsm owner]
We checked ALL the wires,connected direct wires,changed every fuse imaginable,replaced power converter,replaced coils,replaced cables,replaced spark plugs[about 20] and even tried a 95 ecm which changed the coils from firing from 1 and 4......
to firing 2 and 3!!!
Im completely STUMPED!:cry:
Help i just want to drive my 2g :cry:
 
Take out the ECU and smell it, if it smells fishy, you have leaky caps.
You CAN use that ecu but you must change the firing order. There was a wiring order change, if it is from 95-96 car standard firing order of 4-1-2-3 applies. If I remeber properly the 97+ Ecu in a 95 would require a firing order of 1-4-3-2 and vice versa.

Here's if you're brave enough to take on the task of repairing it yourself.


89-94 Capacitor Replacement
2G Turbo ECU Pinouts
 
Take out the ECU and smell it, if it smells fishy, you have leaky caps.
You cannot use that ecu. There was a wiring order change, if it is from 95-96 car standard firing order of 4-1-2-3 applies. If I remeber properly the 97+ Ecu in a 95 would require a firing order of 1-4-3-2.

The firing order never changes, that's cast in steel by the crank and cams. Swapping the wires on the same coil does nothing since both fire together anyway.

What you do is swap the wire on the coils. swapplugwires [ECMTuning - wiki]

However tht isn't going to fix the fact that he's not firing one of the coils. Either because the ECU isn't getting the correct signals from the crank and cam sensors, because he has a bad ECU, bad PTM, or bad coil. The wiring harness and connectors between all of these need to be good but he claims they has all been tested.
 
The firing order never changes, that's cast in steel by the crank and cams. Swapping the wires on the same coil does nothing since both fire together anyway.

What you do is swap the wire on the coils. swapplugwires [ECMTuning - wiki]

However tht isn't going to fix the fact that he's not firing one of the coils. Either because the ECU isn't getting the correct signals from the crank and cam sensors, because he has a bad ECU, bad PTM, or bad coil. The wiring harness and connectors between all of these need to be good but he claims they has all been tested.

Agh. Sorry. I read it from a thread a while ago, I guess it was mis information..
 
The firing order never changes, that's cast in steel by the crank and cams. Swapping the wires on the same coil does nothing since both fire together anyway.

What you do is swap the wire on the coils. swapplugwires [ECMTuning - wiki]

However tht isn't going to fix the fact that he's not firing one of the coils. Either because the ECU isn't getting the correct signals from the crank and cam sensors, because he has a bad ECU, bad PTM, or bad coil. The wiring harness and connectors between all of these need to be good but he claims they has all been tested.

Well what do you guys think?
Here's some flicks of the ECU

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It doesn't smell like fish at all
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What do you think before i go and mess with anything.
as you can see there's a white filmy substance on there.
 

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It's too hard to say from those because of the jpg compression and poor focus or shake but I don't see any major signs of ECU trama.

aw shizzle....
:hmm: well would you be able to direct me in what my plan of attack should be?
so far I have the option of...

A. replacing the entire harness
or
B. buying a 97 gst ecu off ebay.

Man what should i do :ohdamn:
oh...and
would installing a new air intake mess with my car?
When i get it runnin' [with only 2 cylinders]
it sounds like the car is using my intake as a BOV.
also the EXACT day cylinders 2 and 3 went out it happened after an attempted MBC install. i returned everything to normal would this have any effect? i had the boost controller turned all the way down.

come on someone ! ? help i been on this site all day got no idea what to do.
 
hi..sorry dont mean to jack the thread..

6bolt--

Steve, I'm having the same problem, but with no spark in cylinders 1&4. I fried two isc's (possible short i assume?) I've tested everything, PT, coils, and used 2 different ecu's and still nothing. I am however getting power from each thing mentioned.

Even though both ecu's look visually intact could there still be a bad driver?
Could the frying of the two isc's kill both ecu's? (swapping ecu's was one of the first things i did)
Also I grabbed an injector clip from a 2gN/T (#1 inj.) but came with diferent color wires... could i have wired it wrong?

Does a short in the isc wiring have anything to do with cyl 1&4?

CAS wiring is right...

how does the wiring from the PT, coils, and CAS relate to the isc?
 
hi..sorry dont mean to jack the thread..

6bolt--

Steve, I'm having the same problem, but with no spark in cylinders 1&4. I fried two isc's (possible short i assume?) I've tested everything, PT, coils, and used 2 different ecu's and still nothing. I am however getting power from each thing mentioned.

Even though both ecu's look visually intact could there still be a bad driver?
Could the frying of the two isc's kill both ecu's? (swapping ecu's was one of the first things i did)
Also I grabbed an injector clip from a 2gN/T (#1 inj.) but came with diferent color wires... could i have wired it wrong?

Does a short in the isc wiring have anything to do with cyl 1&4?

CAS wiring is right...

How does the wiring from the PT, coils, and CAS relate to the isc?

:hmm:They connect to the IAC/ISC,You wired the injector wrong thats what's giving you a short. the #1 injector connects to the very first green wire in your ECU,thats what's frying your ecu..
 
So I installed ....
new coils,
new spark wires & plugs,and
new power transistor.
We tested all the wires they were good.
I tried an ECU from a 95 Gst and it
switched the problem around from
only coils 1 and 4 firing ,
to 2 and 3 firing!

What now?:dsm:
 
Im having the same problem. Check the wires coming from the Cam and Crank sensors. Then check the two ground wires on the ECU. They are Pin #'s 13 and 26. Make sure they are grounded correctly.

I havent had a chance to try this yet but i have tried everything you have and this is all thats left that would affect that coil.
 
Im having the same problem. Check the wires coming from the Cam and Crank sensors. Then check the two ground wires on the ECU. They are Pin #'s 13 and 26. Make sure they are grounded correctly.

I havent had a chance to try this yet but i have tried everything you have and this is all thats left that would affect that coil.

I'll go outside and do that right now. sounds legit.
 
I'll go outside and do that right now. sounds legit.

Let me know if it works. Its the only thing i havent tried yet. The ECU is either not getting a complete signal to fire that coil or its Not grounded correctly. Both coils are grounded through the ECU. 13 & 26 are the pins for the grounds that go to the coils.
 
Let me know if it works. Its the only thing i havent tried yet. The ECU is either not getting a complete signal to fire that coil or its Not grounded correctly. Both coils are grounded through the ECU. 13 & 26 are the pins for the grounds that go to the coils.
Just got back inside...and....wel...
:banghead:ughhh. That wasn't the problem.... hmmm what now:confused:
 
Just got back inside...and....wel...
:banghead:ughhh. That wasn't the problem.... hmmm what now:confused:

Did you check to see if the grounds were touching bear metal? When i first got my car to start it was from just wiggling the harness which leads me to believe the grounds are bad or the wires have separated inside.
 
I bought the car as is. Not running. Been at it the last few days and what i mentioned above is the only thing i havent tried yet. Either the ECU isnt getting a complete signal from the cam and crank sensor or the ground isnt grounded completely. There is nothing left after switching ECU's transistors and coil packs.
 
Did you check to see if the grounds were touching bear metal? When i first got my car to start it was from just wiggling the harness which leads me to believe the grounds are bad or the wires have separated inside.

I got my ohmeter, and linked it up at the base of the ground wire. Then touched the firewall and it seems to have continuity. Even checked where it's linked up to the firewall.:sosad:

did u buy the car like that or this happened after you did what
It happened after installing a short ram air intake,headers and an MBC.
I turned it on and then it immediately turned off after 5 seconds.
 
Then you need to test the cam and crank wires but you need a special device to do it with and i dont have it. =(

it's VERY unlinkely i think. my engine bay is immaculate.
super clean so i dunno , MAN! this is fu**ing bullsh!T!!!!:ohdamn:
 
it's VERY unlinkely i think. my engine bay is immaculate.
super clean so i dunno , MAN! this is fu**ing bullsh!T!!!!:ohdamn:

Never ever assume just because something is well maintain its not going to fail :nono:. Your car is 12 years old. Somethings bound to die at some point in its life.
 
there is three wires on each cam n crank sensors,one is black ground,red is power,blue is signal,have someone crank the engine while you check for signal.by the way what is mbc.
 
You state everything is getting power, but have you check to see if they are working? Get a schematic. Nothing more frustrating, than swapping parts without any results and expensive.
 
Try using your ohms meter to check both grounds at the same time if you get what i mean. They are both grounded at the same place and as such you should relieve a complete signal from the two pins. If you dont reground, the wires and try to fire her up.
 
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