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2.3 stroker kit questions

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90tsistorm

Probationary Member
22
0
Jun 5, 2006
Wisconsin
I was looking at AMS and there stroker kit is 2,300$. Then i looked at slowboy's and there most expensive kit is 1500$ is it that AMS's kit is that great.

Also im trying to decide which kit is the best for the money if i want to make 475-500 at the wheels but not be maxed out.
 
AMS and FFWD typically run higher prices than most shops but they also offer more high end parts and features than most. I personally run the $1300 stroker kit from SBR and it's worked very well thus far. SBR is a large volume reseller and their kits have well matched components. To ensure that you're getting the best quality, you can always opt for a new crank instead of a reconditioned one. I didn't have that choice on my build, but it's safe insurance. If you can't afford a new crank with any kit, at least have your crank magnafluxed by the assembling machine shop to check for cracks. Mine had none, but it's a good idea to do this with any reconditioned crank.

More importantly, as long as the machine shop doing the work is competent and pays attention to the little details (balancing, etc), you should be fine with any kit. A crap assembly job will wreck any high dollar internals. Your best bet is to call FFWD, AMS and SBR and see who gives you the best answers and will work with you on the build. With the amount of money you'll be spending, confidence in your parts supplier and the ability to get the right answers is key.

Good luck!

Andy
 
im currently running the SBR kit as well. SBR has been good with answering any questions ive had. ive always read that there are ways to prevent crank walk with 98 and earlier blocks by how you machine the block and to let one of the vendors do the machine work. or dig for a good local machine shop that has done these engines before.

also andymoraitis, you mention balancing? what exactly because these are straight four engines, the engine doesnt need to be balanced as the internals are on the same plane
 
CorrupTTalon said:
im currently running the SBR kit as well. SBR has been good with answering any questions ive had. ive always read that there are ways to prevent crank walk with 98 and earlier blocks by how you machine the block and to let one of the vendors do the machine work. or dig for a good local machine shop that has done these engines before.

I know that a 7 bolt can be machined and built just as well as a 6 bolt. My mechanic builds strokers all the time and was trying to explain why he prefers 7bolt strokers over 6 bolts. He says he has never had one of his 7 bolt stroker crank fail and a few 6 bolts that have. He has built more strokers than he can count. He also builds his own strokers by taking the crank from 2.4's instead of buying a stroker kit. You could go this way also.
 
CorrupTTalon said:
also andymoraitis, you mention balancing? what exactly because these are straight four engines, the engine doesnt need to be balanced as the internals are on the same plane

any engine can benefit from balancing whether it's a 4 6 8 10 12 cylinder, all motors produce vibrations can be minimized.
 
As Staytuned correctly mentioned, any motor can benefit from balancing. My machine shop found minor variances in my pistons and rods (weight wise) and performed appropriate machining work to make sure that everything matched evenly. It makes for a smoother motor and any machine shop should have no trouble doing this.
 
JayRolla said:
I know that a 7 bolt can be machined and built just as well as a 6 bolt. My mechanic builds strokers all the time and was trying to explain why he prefers 7bolt strokers over 6 bolts. He says he has never had one of his 7 bolt stroker crank fail and a few 6 bolts that have. He has built more strokers than he can count. He also builds his own strokers by taking the crank from 2.4's instead of buying a stroker kit. You could go this way also.

That's always good to hear since the 7 bolt is often maligned as a crankwalker more than it should be. Fact of the matter is, all 2.3's use a 2.4 crank whether it came from a kit or from a donor 2.4 motor. Truth be told, I stayed 7 bolt since I have the late 98 split thrust crank bearing. There was no movement on the crank with a wedged crowbar on the old motor and also none on this one. As a matter of fact, we re-used the thrust bearing from the 2.0 since it showed zero wear.
 
andymoraitis said:
That's always good to hear since the 7 bolt is often maligned as a crankwalker more than it should be. Fact of the matter is, all 2.3's use a 2.4 crank whether it came from a kit or from a donor 2.4 motor. Truth be told, I stayed 7 bolt since I have the late 98 split thrust crank bearing. There was no movement on the crank with a wedged crowbar on the old motor and also none on this one. As a matter of fact, we re-used the thrust bearing from the 2.0 since it showed zero wear.

Nice to hear someone that doesnt say I need a new mechanic or call me an idiot for saying a 7 bolt stroker is just as good or even can be better than a 6 bolt. He says a 6 bolt is perfect 2.0L motor and the 7 bolt makes a better stroker. He builds his strokers and sells them for 2K which I think is a great price. He said about 800 for pistons and rods and charges about 200 for a 2.4 crank. He gets a real good price on machine work becuase he does so much and thats how he sells them so cheap.
 
Alright thanks for all the info. I think i want to use something like a fp 3065 or 3565 for a turbo but i still need to buy everything to support it. I already have a 6 bolt block that im pretty sure im gonna use from a buddy of mine who is getting out out of dsms.
 
If you can find a 2.4l crank I would get that and buy the parts seperate. You will save money. SBR charges up the but for the crank and all it is, is a machined used junkyard crank, unless you get there racing crank.
 
90tsistorm said:
I was looking at AMS and there stroker kit is 2,300$. Then i looked at slowboy's and there most expensive kit is 1500$ is it that AMS's kit is that great.

Also im trying to decide which kit is the best for the money if i want to make 475-500 at the wheels but not be maxed out.
Slowboys kit is $3150 if you can find me a link to a $1500 one I'll gladly buy that right now! I think AMS is the cheaper one, and probably better if not the same..
 
I have sported the SBR stroked kit and will do it again on this next car. I would opt. for the new crank though. I might even go as far to get a new crank and then get it knife edged to take some extra weight off of it. I ran mine for a good amount of time with no problems when I was in Iowa. I machined and assembled it all myself and as andymoraitis stated, it is a good idea to balace everything. I had a few rods that were a few grams different in wieght and machined them all the exact same wieght. My pistons were perfect. I did it to my 7 bolt as well and was very pleased. I like the 7 bolt mainly because it doesn't have individual main caps. They are all on a machined peice. But for 1900 for a new stroker kit is pretty good. I beleive there is a guy selling a stage 3 stroker kit with already machined block in the classifieds for 1800.
 
my tuners 91 gst is running a 6 bolt crank and he did 2.4 all the work himself and he used the 2.4 crank from a 4g64 i believe as well but he got the crank knife edged and machined, and had it cryotreated to further strengthen it for better durability. The stroker made his engine feel real torquey, and even while he had it set a stock boost was crazy fast from all his mods. What is the biggest stroker you can do though, would it be feasable to so take the entire bottom end of a 4g64 2.4 and machine it to work with the 1g head? Or will there be problems of it not bolting and durability issues? Because I could get a 2.4 bottom end for cheaper than I can get a 2.3 stroker kit..... Any ideas?
 
Can't use it because the coolant passage's don't match up and 2.4L is all you can get out of a 4g63 block safely. Now if you wanted to QuikCrete the block and bore the shit out of it to say .100 over you MIGHT get a 2.5L but it's a track only car then.
 
Your saying the coolant passages from the 2.4 4g64 motor doesnt match up with the 4g63 head because Im pretty sure ive heard of this swap somewhere that someone put the 4g63 head on their 2.4 galants... And 100 over bore is pretty intense, if the engine ever overheated that wouldnt be good, and the cylender walls would be more prone to damage and cracking because there thinner.
 
That is why you fill all of the coolant passage's and sleeve the block. By filling the passage's you can bore it out an insane amount. I have done 350's up to .125 over. Full drag motor though. Get one run then gotta let it cool down then run again.
 
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