1G 1g Wont Rev past 3500rpm???

[1ggsx604]

Ive searched and searched and cant figure this out. No one has found a solution it seems like.

My wife gave me a 1991 Laser that has been sitting in a field for 7 years that they had.

Well i got it and the car is in good shape. Some stole the turbo and half the exhaust.

I buy a 14b for the car put it on and go to start it after cleaning everything. And Nothing

Well Find out the fuel pump is bad.

I Bought a Walbro 190, New Fuel Filter, New PCV valve, Boost Leak Test, Timing dead on, TPS dead on, CAS dead on, EGR valve and vacuum line deleted, New Plugs and Wires, ECU tested (good).

And i still cant figure it out.

The car will start and idle fine. Has a slight miss but dosnt die. But when you rev it, it will rev to about 3000-4000 and start cutting out like a rev limiter and blows black smoke (runnin rich but has the 390 injectors???)

I cant figure this out, Did a compression test and it came out as 142-151-140-140.

I dont have a aftermarket boost gauge (gettin one soon) but the stock gauge goes up to 7 lbs when it does this.

Can someone help, im running out on what to do and ive been to 3 forums.

Thank you and sorry for the long post.

 

[2g 6 bolt swap]

Are you sure you dont have any plug wires mixed up? Also your CAS could be 180 degrees out.

 

[1ggsx604]

I have a FSM and i made sure the plugs are right.

We even tryed flippin the CAS 180 and it still does it both ways, it doesnt change it at all.

I did acidently leave my pcv vavle unhooked the other day when i did a boost leak and the car would rev to 4500...???

Im so confused and lost with this car.

 

[90moneypit]

If you're sure the battery is fully charged and the alternator didn't die I'd check the gap on the plugs first, then the coil. With it running rich, it's not burning all the fuel so the problem lies somewhere between fuel and spark. Duh! I just remembered it was sitting in a field for years. I'm guessing that you emptied the gas tank and put fresh in but a lot of ppl don't think about the fuel filter. Replace that puppy if you hadn't already, run some seafoam to clear out the sludge in everything else (oil, tank, vac line method) and see what it does.

Let us know how that works and we'll go from there.

 

[1ggsx604]

Drained the tank to put the 190 in. Put 1/4 tank of fresh gas with a can of seafoam.

We even used plugs and wires out of a friends gsx and it acted the same. How can i tell if its my coil or power transistor???

 

[1ggsx604]

Does anyone else no. Its killin me. I cant figure out. I took coil and power transistor out and both look good and clean.

Car only has 157,000 miles on it.

Any other ideas i can try. Im open to anything right now.

 

[90moneypit]

I'm wondering if your fuel pressure is running high now after looking through all the posts again. You've double checked the vacuum lines running from the fpr on the rail to a vac source? See if you can check the fpr itself too.

As far as checking the coil/ignitor, there's a proceedure but I don't know it. If there was something wrong with them, you'd think it would trigger a CEL but who knows with a 90, it could be a bad ground wire somewhere weakening the whole electrical system.

 

[Shortstuff]

It almost sounds like somebody had dsm link hooked up and put anti-lag on the car since your building boost. Correct me if im wrong but these cars arent supposed to build boost while setting and just reving it.

 

[viprez586]

It almost sounds like somebody had dsm link hooked up and put anti-lag on the car since your building boost. Correct me if im wrong but these cars arent supposed to build boost while setting and just reving it.

I doubt it had DSMlink put on it considering it was sitting for 7 years.

With stutterbox or antilag you can build boost off the line, but antilag is bad news for your turbo if your doing it all the time.

What plugs are in it? Whats the gap? Go standard NGK coppers @ .028"

Do a boost leak test again and check the following.

• Turbo compressor cover
• Compressor outlet
• All intercooler piping and connections
• Especially check the intercooler considering the car was sitting and corrosion eats away at the stock sidemounts, good time to clean it too.
• Blow off valve gasket/connection
• All vacuum lines (Make sure BOV has single dedicated line, also recirculate it back into the intake stream)
• Your EGR delete
• Unlikely but there is a O-ring on the IAC motor and a rubber seal on the FIAV.
• Fuel injector seals upper and lower
• Throttle body gaskets and TB shaft seals
• Brake booster line
• Lastly I'd pull off the FPR line with the car running, if fuel drips out the diaphragm is bad, replace it.

If the car is automatic it has 390cc injectors. Manuals had 450cc...if that's the case I'd throw in some 450s ASAP due to the possibility your leaning out under load.

 

[AZEclipse07]

I know this might sound dumb but check your firing order. I had a similar experience and I kicked myself when I figured it out.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

+1 on the boost leak test again make sure to use really soapy water to find any of the leaks and start the test at the TB elbow and then work back towards the turbo. SPRAY EVERYTHING! I would double check the ECU too just to make sure that there are no blown or leaky caps and even try swapping it out with a similar model one(similar model car) of possible to see if the ECU is the cause of modifications or good/bad (unless already tested in a different vehicle)

 

[92EagleAWD]

x2 for the ecu. Try swapping it like AlaskanDSM said. Pull the cover off of your ecu and check it out. It nmight not be obvious so look carefully. You can use this as an example of what to look for courtesy of ECMTuning ecurepairhome [ECMTuning - wiki]. Just look under the Corrosion section.

 

[Shadow21]

I had this exact same issue with my 90 when i bought it from a guy that told me all it needed was a safc because of the larger injectors. I switched ecu's, looked at what the ecu was doing via logger, tried to adjust the cas. Well as luck would have it my girlfriend needed the turbo off of it. I pulled the turbo and noticed that pistons 2&3 had oil in the ports. Kind of odd. The car never smoked. It wouldnt rev for crap and the idle was REALLY rough but never smoked. So i was like man.. I need to pull this motor and see whats wrong with it. Turns out pistons 2&3 had busted ringlands.The really odd thing is that the cylinder walls had no damage at all. Anyways. Seems to me as if your compression is a little low. This could be your problem.

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[Afroclipse]

Check ecu

 

[92EagleAWD]

I had this exact same issue with my 90 when i bought it from a guy that told me all it needed was a safc because of the larger injectors. I switched ecu's, looked at what the ecu was doing via logger, tried to adjust the cas. Well as luck would have it my girlfriend needed the turbo off of it. I pulled the turbo and noticed that pistons 2&3 had oil in the ports. Kind of odd. The car never smoked. It wouldnt rev for crap and the idle was REALLY rough but never smoked. So i was like man.. I need to pull this motor and see whats wrong with it. Turns out pistons 2&3 had busted ringlands.The really odd thing is that the cylinder walls had no damage at all. Anyways. Seems to me as if your compression is a little low. This could be your problem.

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I cant figure this out, Did a compression test and it came out as 142-151-140-140.

Comp is a little low, i believe factory for a 1g is 165, but hes fine with 140+. Compression is not his issue.

 

[Shadow21]

Comp is a little low, i believe factory for a 1g is 165, but hes fine with 140+. Compression is not his issue.

I swear this is exactly what mine did. At any rate good luck.

 

[viprez586]

My original motor ran great with smoked rings - 120psi across the board. I highly doubt it's worn rings. With cracked ringlands you'll loose compression too...it's just a matter of time before those rings get wiped completely.

 

[1ggsx604]

Sorry have not posted lately. I have been busy with my 1gb talon swap.

But i checked stuff. I cant find anymore leaks. Ive put 20 psi in it and no more leaks.

When i turn the key the isc sensor ( i think ) clicks for acouple of seconds then stops. It clicks then stops clicks and stops for about 5 - 10 secs. Its from around the throttle body. The car has 156,000 miles so i wouldnt think 140 would be low??? Also if i hold it there while it stutters it will blow black smoke and some white. But mostley black.

Thanks for the help so far. Im just tryig to figure this out.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

Black smoke is usually a good indicator that it is running rich. White at first could just be condensation but it can also mean that you are burning some coolant if it smells sweet.

 

[1ggsx604]

Well i put a boost gauge in along with a narrowband i got free. I changed plugs and the car wouldnt start. Put a new set of 390 injectors and started up. But i got it to rev freely acouple times and others it cuts out at 3500 again. I dont know. Im confused. My boost is showin -20 at idle snd narrowband shows lean the whole time except when it revs to the full 6000 it shows good. When i hit that cut my boost is at 5 psi in park and narrowband shows rich.

Im confused on ### it is

 

[viprez586]

Did you Go standard NGK coppers @ .028"?

Make sure your grounding the check connector when setting your base timing.

Are you automatic or manual? If your manual, you need 450cc injectors. That's why it runs like crap.

Check your ECU for leaking caps...someone pointed out the ecmtuning link...follow that link and it'll show you what to look for.

Narrowband's suck and are worthless. Invest in at least a datalogger, or if you really like the light show go with a wideband.

Possibly try someone else's MAF or see if the problem duplicates with the MAF disconnected.

Pull the vacuum line off the end of the FPR with the car running. If fuel spills out, replace the FPR.

 

[92EagleAWD]

The car has 156,000 miles so i wouldnt think 140 would be low???

Factory service limit is 130psi, below that and you "should" have the engine serviced. But there are plenty of people on here that say their cars run just fine below that.

 

[1ggsx604]

Well I played with stuff today and this is what I got.

The fpr don't leak, I got a new set of 390 injectors. At ideal my narrowband shows lean does not move back and forth. If I hold the gas at 2000 for 20 sec the gauge will go into ideal in the middle then I can rev the car to 6500. It seems its not building pressure. Its a new 190 walbro so what would cause that.

May be a cheap gauge but its showin its lean when I thought rich. So its helped where I can rev it now but only if I let pressure build up...

 

[Shadow21]

Well I played with stuff today and this is what I got.

The fpr don't leak, I got a new set of 390 injectors. At ideal my narrowband shows lean does not move back and forth. If I hold the gas at 2000 for 20 sec the gauge will go into ideal in the middle then I can rev the car to 6500. It seems its not building pressure. Its a new 190 walbro so what would cause that.

May be a cheap gauge but its showin its lean when I thought rich. So its helped where I can rev it now but only if I let pressure build up...

When i boosted my galant i had the lean but smells rich issue going on. It turned out that i did a dumb ass move and put the plug wires in the wrong firing order. have you checked that?

 

[viprez586]

Like i said, they suck and are totally inaccurate. Your better off looking at a datalogger.

Not to be a dick but if you don't answer my questions I'm not going to continually repeat myself. Please read them and re-post, Thanks.

If in fact you are lean I'd look for exhaust leaks, this includes everything from the manifold gasket all the way to the O2 sensor.