1G Street Suspension Recomendations

[Infinity03]

hi everyone,

I wanted to see what you guys recomend for a 1g street car. I dont plan to race and i do not want to eff with it constantly. I would just like to lower the car without tearing up tires. Seems to be that the kyb shocks and eibach springs are the way to go but i do not want to throw them on and be wrong. Budget is wide open as long as it is justifiable and gets the most bang for the buck.

any advice would be appreciated.

Mark

 

[dwdsm]

kybs and eibachs for the street sounds good to me. If you want to spend a little more the H&R springs are a little better.

 

[projecTSI]

That is a good combo, lots of guys run it and do not have a problem with them.

 

[mavisky]

Pro kit's and GR2's make a nice little improvement without spending big money.

 

[Black_Bullet]

I have good results with H&R 1in drop springs, kyb Gr2s , and suspension technique rear sway bar, front and rear strut bars( not nessecarily needed), ingalls fast camber bolts, and welded control arm for active toe eliminataion, and my handling feels really hyper and quick on turn in response with a slight bit of understeer on power if its pushed hard, but then sometimes depending corner angle it can have some over steer a bit, but mainly is very nuetral feeling 90% of the time. I remember reading its unlikely to completely get rid of understeer in these cars unless more power was sent to the rear tires thru different drivetrain components... But reguardless my car loves corners, especially tight technical turns that most cars would go sloppy on. Next im aiming for koni yellows and some high quality coilovers to drop it another half inch lower, slap some even wider tires on than my 225s/50/16s and get energy suspension bushings for the rear.. Oh and relocation of the battery to the rear, and a cf hood will help you also as it aids your weight distrubution from front to rear better. Its about balance as well.... Just My 2cents.

 

[eclipsh]

...welded control arm for active toe eliminataion... Oh and relocation of the battery to the rear, and a cf hood will help you also as it aids your weight distrubution from front to rear better. Its about balance as well.... Just My 2cents.

Welding the rear control arms causes binding in the suspension. If you want to eliminate the active toe you need to do it right with some heim joints and a welded insert.

Relocating the battery is an iffy move since the front end is driver's side biased. According to Pagosa DSM's professional racing buddy (F1 experience) our best bet in a 1g awd is to add about 90 lbs to the passenger rear of the car and balance the rest with coilovers and over-all weight loss.

To the OP: If you're patient you can find a good deal online. I got my Ground Control coilovers for $71 shipped. If you aren't in a rush just check out eBay on a regular basis until you find what you want for the price you want. My KYB AGX struts were $200 shipped but are currently running a bit over $300. Take your time and you'll save a lot of money.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Welding the rear control arms causes binding in the suspension. If you want to eliminate the active toe you need to do it right with some heim joints and a welded insert.

Relocating the battery is an iffy move since the front end is driver's side biased. According to Pagosa DSM's professional racing buddy (F1 experience) our best bet in a 1g awd is to add about 90 lbs to the passenger rear of the car and balance the rest with coilovers and over-all weight loss.

To the OP: If you're patient you can find a good deal online. I got my Ground Control coilovers for $71 shipped. If you aren't in a rush just check out eBay on a regular basis until you find what you want for the price you want. My KYB AGX struts were $200 shipped but are currently running a bit over $300. Take your time and you'll save a lot of money.

Im aware of the so called binding of the suspension and reguardless of that the car still responds better, and the battery is on the passenger side of the hatch which is the opposite corner of the heaviest part of the car. Im not saying I recommend this for a fwd, because Its not only just about balance with weight distrubution its about traction also, not that putting a battery to the back has any significant changes upon anything other than have much more space in the engine bay, i still find it more strategic putting it back there on the right corner.
A carbon fiber hood would be helpful as well, and id never add weight to the car just to get some perfect so called balance, id just distrubute and remove weight... My .2cents

 

[KiNg MaRtY]

Be aware if you choose to get the GR-2s with Eibachs, the GR-2s will have a tremendous amount of their life cut.

 

[RipperXX]

AGX

I went with them, and for the money couldn't be much happier.

 

[Ludachris]

Just FYI, the GR2's and AGX's are very popular because they're cheaper. But as another here has said, they're not made to be used with lowering springs, even though that's what most people use when they install them. I've personally had a set of AGX's last only 1 year and a set of GR2's lasted about 1.5 years for me. This was with Ground Control coilover perches and the default spring rates from GC. The car was lowered about 1.5-2 inches. This accelerated wear problem is a common theme I've seen in the DSM community over the years but it doesn't seem to have happened to everyone who uses KYB's with lowering springs. It's just a risk you take I guess.

If you want a set of shocks that you won't have to replace as often go with Konis. They're built better and you'll end up saving money in the long run. They perform better (and ride quality is better) than the KYB's hands down.

 

[unlmtdndeavor]

Plus KONIs carry a lifetime warranty.