DG suspension setup for street

[PEGE]

Picked up some more suspension goodies today!


Koni shocks:

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Hypercoil 8" 600 and 300 pound springs:

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Hypercoil helper springs:

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[jmakado]

What helper springs did you go with?

 

[PEGE]

I only found one helper spring style available for the 2.25 ID springs.

 

[Xit40]

I think you'll end up being very happy with the results with those. I run pretty much the same setup minus the spherical tops (Koni yellows, GC Sleeves, Eibach Race Springs 550 front/375 rear with helpers) and I think it's very streetable. I lowered it about .75 inches all around which I found to be the best for lowering and full suspension travel. Your setup looks great.

 

[eclipsh]

I'm surprised everyone is going with such firm rates for a street car. I'm running 450/250 and couldn't be happier. Same suspension and weight as a 2g, just a little longer wheel base. This is with a DG-esque front setup and a standard rear setup (for now). I find it is just right for absorbing bumps mid corner without upsetting the car. I get a smooth, comfortable ride but it still corners great and will trail brake for me when I want it to.

 

[PEGE]

Sleeves are in, I just have to go pick them up.




Since I will be running the koni sleeves, I have no machining to do on the shock body?
Looking for someone to confirm this please^

 

[snowborder714]

Have you read through everything on this page?
Autocross.dsm.org - Build Your Own Konis

 

[greengoblin]

You are going to have to do machine work. snowborder714 is right. Read the direction. They are step by step and are perfect. Read man read!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[jtmcinder]

Out of curiosity, why did you go with 2.25" springs? There's an OTS solution if you run 2.5" springs, instead. Were you trying to minimize weight? Also, you will not need helpers in the front.

 

[tenn-gsx]

Out of curiosity, why did you go with 2.25" springs? There's an OTS solution if you run 2.5" springs, instead. Were you trying to minimize weight? Also, you will not need helpers in the front.

I have the DG with 2.5 hypercoils in the front and rear. The helpers are definitely a must. when i lift my car off the ground i get about 1.5 inch shock extension beyond the spring. This is how the car sits now. Just set up the stance in the last couple days. Post 296 page 10 in thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/appearance-interior-exterior/275272-show-me-your-rims-10.html

 

[snowborder714]

I know the Koni sleeve kit comes with the upper hat that's made for a 2.25" spring, so he wouldn't have to do any extra work.

 

[tenn-gsx]

I may have to retract my first statement. It is possible I have the 2.25 springs, not sure cant remember. Ill measure tomorrow.. Snowboarder Which is it on the set we had made. Do you remember?

 

[jtmcinder]

Two comments about front helpers on a 2G. First, helpers are to keep things lined up when you are actually driving, not to keep things lined up when you put a jack under the car. Unless you think you're Ken Blockhead in a 2G - which is silly, but since I rallycrossed mine, I'm not going to say that you shouldn't do something equally dumb - then you will never unload the front springs. Second, if you've got a lowered 2G with enough droop travel to unload 600+ front springs, odds are you didn't have your front shocks shortened. You really want to have them take an inch off the front shocks for this set up. But what do I know? I only drove this set up for a year before Dennis "invented" it.

 

[snowborder714]

I may have to retract my first statement. It is possible I have the 2.25 springs, not sure cant remember. Ill measure tomorrow.. Snowboarder Which is it on the set we had made. Do you remember?

We have 2.25" springs as per the link I posted above. The Koni sleeve kits are made to go with that size. If you want to run a 2.5" spring, you would have to have a different upper hat machined (such as gixxerdrew did on his KW/DG setup).

 

[greengoblin]

We have 2.25" springs as per the link I posted above. The Koni sleeve kits are made to go with that size. If you want to run a 2.5" spring, you would have to have a different upper hat machined (such as gixxerdrew did on his KW/DG setup).

You use the same hat. Koni makes an adapter ring . It also allows you to run the k&W springs with the koni upper spring perch and DG coaxial hat.

Pg. 31 inthe Koni catalog.

Nylon 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" ID spring adapters (2 needed) 15.29.04.003.0

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[snowborder714]

Thanks for the correction, Kevin.

 

[daren_p]

As linked earlier I run the DG setup with 500F/350R, my car is mostly a street car with some drag. So I wasn't looking to go super aggressive, just something that handles decently. If I was doing it again, I think 600F/300R might be a better balance. I do notice the front as being "softer" then the rears. Though, with stock sway bars & urthane bushings, this setup does allow the car to oversteer when pushed through a corner, which is nice.

As a side note, keep an eye on those ES rear control arm to knuckle bushings you just installed. Mine lasted one summer before the shoulders were completely crushed (ie bushings junk). I found a seller that sold just these bushings (in black) from Prothane, which have a much larger square shoulder. So far they've held up, no issues.

 

[PEGE]

I am running 2.25" springs because of the koni sleeves. I was not aware that they made an adapter to run 2.5". But 2.25" will do the job just fine.

As far as machining the shocks, I did read up on the DG site. It did not find it clear if you needed to machine when running the Koni sleeves, wich I figured should be compatible to the Koni shock!

I thought the machining was only when running Ground control sleeves or something similar.

People out there running the Koni shock and sleeve combo still machined the shocks?
Sorry for the confusion I just figured these items would be compatible since they are from the same supplier and made to work together.

Could someone explain why I am machining? Does the car, with factory perch and top hat sit to high?

thanks for the help guys.

 

[vr4scott]

It says on that Build your own Konis write up that if you are using the GC sleeves you do not have to machine them.

 

[jtmcinder]

Yep. The place inside the sleeve that sits on the ring on the shock is in difference locations for GC vs Koni sleeves. If you go the GC route, as I did, no machining of the shock body is required. Also, you can get hats for 2.5" springs that fit the shaft of a Koni from a couple of place (or, at least you could several years ago), including RRE, so the 2.5" option is pretty much the same in ease of gathering the required parts to build the coilover. I didn't even consider 2.25" springs when I built mine, but only because I didn't even think of this option. That's the only difference between a "Cinder" set-up and a "DG50" set-up. In retrospect, I'd say that Dennis' way is better, but if you tell him that, I'll claim that someone hacked my account and created this post.

 

[eclipsh]

Just thought I'd add in a late comment. The spring alignment and separating from perches really depends on the stiffness and length of springs you run. Mine do not separate even at full droop but I'm running much softer rates than any of you. I think this also prevents any "spring alignment" issues which were briefly mentioned earlier.

Also, you can run any upper perch you want, you just need to change the bushing design to accommodate for it. Mine have something like a 1" opening at the top. I found a deal on a set for some Toyota or other. I just designed the bushing so that the perch worked with it and everything is fine.

 

[LandoAWD]

In retrospect, I'd say that Dennis' way is better, but if you tell him that, I'll claim that someone hacked my account and created this post.

Quoted for posterity.

 

[jtmcinder]

Dammit! Time to change my password again.

 

[LandoAWD]

Lmao.

 

[jtmcinder]

Just thought I'd add in a late comment. The spring alignment and separating from perches really depends on the stiffness and length of springs you run. Mine do not separate even at full droop but I'm running much softer rates than any of you. I think this also prevents any "spring alignment" issues which were briefly mentioned earlier.

The free height of the springs can matter, especially in the front of a lowered 2G. Note that if you have two springs with the same rate, but one is a little longer than the other (e.g., 7" vs 8"), then they are probably wound from the same wire. If they are wound from the same wire, then the actual amount of metal is the same (to get the same rate). This means that the shorter spring is closer to binding than the longer one, because it's the same amount of metal wedged into a smaller area.