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1G 1g Replacement Engine 92 Eagle Talon

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Ellibeest

Probationary Member
23
11
Oct 5, 2025
Peculiar, Missouri
I have 92 Eagle Talon and pretty new to this DSM world. The engine crapped out on me recently and needs to be replaced (timing issues).

I am having the fun of looking for an engine for the car. If I have read things correctly, any 2.0l engine (what I currently have) from a 90-94 Eclipse, Talon or Laser should be able to fit without any issues as the engine mounting is the same. The 6 or 7 bolt shouldn't matter as that is for the crankshaft or do I need to pay attention to that to line up with the transmission correctly? It's a 5 speed manual transmission

The other idea I had would be to take the entire engine apart, inspect the cylinder walls and if those are good, replace the guts to the engine. This may need result in replacing the engine anyways but might be cheaper if the block and walls are good.

This is my 16 year old's car that he saved up for and bought and I'm trying to help him out, so any help/suggestions/comments would be appreciated.
 
If getting another engine:
Any 1G 6- or 1G 7-bolt engine would drop in. Transmissions are not 6- or 7- bolt specific. Whatever transmission is in the car will bolt up to any 1G 2.0L block.

You do need to be aware of the different flywheels that you may run across. Obviously, there’s the 6 or 7 bolts but there are differences between non-turbo and turbo, and between turbo FWD and turbo AWD. The ideal situation is you reuse the flywheel on the current engine.



If looking to tear into the current engine:
Sounds like you understand what you’re getting into. There is a chance it doesn’t need anything more than a new cylinder head (and general maintenance items required when doing that). In many cases, “timing issues” does not result in damage to the lower end. This is generally the best approach - determine what it actually needs before finding some used engine somewhere that may need the exact same work (or more!). At least this way, you know what you’re up against. And disassembling doesn’t cost anything but your time.
 
If getting another engine:
Any 1G 6- or 1G 7-bolt engine would drop in. Transmissions are not 6- or 7- bolt specific. Whatever transmission is in the car will bolt up to any 1G 2.0L block.

You do need to be aware of the different flywheels that you may run across. Obviously, there’s the 6 or 7 bolts but there are differences between non-turbo and turbo, and between turbo FWD and turbo AWD. The ideal situation is you reuse the flywheel on the current engine.



If looking to tear into the current engine:
Sounds like you understand what you’re getting into. There is a chance it doesn’t need anything more than a new cylinder head (and general maintenance items required when doing that). In many cases, “timing issues” does not result in damage to the lower end. This is generally the best approach - determine what it actually needs before finding some used engine somewhere that may need the exact same work (or more!). At least this way, you know what you’re up against. And disassembling doesn’t cost anything but your time.
Thanks for the input. Now to get my garage cleaned out.

My wife was just talking about needing to clean up the garage so she could pull her car in for the winter time. The garage will get cleaned up but she may not be pulling her car in for a while!! 🤣😂
 
Have you checked how comfortable your couch is, for sleeping :hmm:
@19Eclipse90 has the plan layed out and I agree. IF you have time, take that motor apart and fix it. Its just material costs then.
Believe me, you will do a BETTER job and CARE MORE than anyone else if you do the engine work yourself. "Rebuilt engines" (from parts stores or random individuals) just haven't ever worked out for me.
I'm here to always help, if questions arise.
Thanks Brian!
Marty
 
I agree this may be nothing more than a cylinder head job. Its relatively easy to remove the head with the motor still in the car. No matter what head has to come off so you have nothing to lose. I did one last year. Can be done in a day. I took a few weekends and did alot of cleanup/maintenance.
 
Just thought I would drop in and give an update on this. So we ended up pulling the entire engine and transmission out. The transmission has a worn syncro gear that we wanted to replace and wanted to check out a few other things. It's been pretty fun pulling with my kid and doing the work.

Anyways found the timing belt to be missing a few teeth and another belt (guessing the balance shaft belt) was broken. Everything else looked to be in good condition. We think it broke when he started it the next day because there was no piston damage and what we could tell the the valves and head looked to be in good condition. Took the head to a shop to have it looked at and cleaned up. They replaced 8 valves and and some valve guides but said everything else looked good.

We are getting ready to put it back together while he is out of school. Any other recommendations on things to look at while we have it pulled out. Also if you have any tips on timing it I would be glad to hear those. I heard that with the balance shafts it can be more difficult to time.
 
If you are timing with the balance shafts make sure to follow the service manual instructions and remove the plug/bolt in the rear of the engine to get the rear shaft timed right. It is not enough just to line up the marks on the oil pump drive.
 
 
We are all here for a piece of advice or assistance for you and your son. Its a learning project that you both will never forget, I guarantee that much!
Thanks for the update and Merry Christmas!

No harder to time, as the guys have said. Just take your time. Pictures are very helpful.
 
Thanks for the links and information. Greatly appreciated.
 
Any tips on how to get this sleeve/collar off? Needing to replace some synchro gears.
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Any tips on how to get this sleeve/collar off? Needing to replace some synchro gears.
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Use a bearing splitter and a press under 3rd gear. Pull the whole thing all at once. Gear doesnt need pulled as you know its just on a needle bearing but if you go under the gear youll get the hub/sleeve and the 4th gear needle sleeve off all at once.
 
Use a bearing splitter and a press under 3rd gear. Pull the whole thing all at once. Gear doesnt need pulled as you know its just on a needle bearing but if you go under the gear youll get the hub/sleeve and the 4th gear needle sleeve off all at once.
Thanks @pauleyman. Do you know if the 3rd gear Synchro is above or below that collar? I only need to replace the 3rd gear synchro so if I don't have to go by another tool to take this off that would be preferable.
 
Thanks @pauleyman. Do you know if the 3rd gear Synchro is above or below that collar? I only need to replace the 3rd gear synchro so if I don't have to go by another tool to take this off that would be preferable.
3rd is below. You can see the sequence of gears as you move up the shaft. That is the input shaft and it starts with 1 and 2 as part of the shaft(clutch side) and then 3 and 4. Last outside the bearing plate is 5th/rev. Your picture shows 3rd gear and its synchro still on the shaft. Keep track of the hub/sleeve assemblies as they are not symmetrical. The factory manual shows this and the appropriate markings.
 
Appreciate it. I looked a factory manual and didn't see the identifiers of the gears, but I may have overlooked it. A lot of this stuff is new to me, but I'm confident that I can get it done right, just have a lot of questions
 
Appreciate it. I looked a factory manual and didn't see the identifiers of the gears, but I may have overlooked it. A lot of this stuff is new to me, but I'm confident that I can get it done right, just have a lot of questions
Ask away. By the way you likely noticed there is no reverse gear per se but there is a synchro and cone for reverse on the end of the input shaft. If you’re in this long enough you'll discover lots of differences from year to year.
If you have not already done so please fill out a vehicle profile.
 
Last edited:
Ask away. By the way you likely noticed there is no reverse gear per se but there is a synchro and cone for reverse on the end of the input shaft. If you’re in this long enough you'll discover lots of differences from year to year.
If you have not already done so please fill out a vehicle profile.
vehicle profile added
 
Thanks, it makes answering questions much easier. Welcome!
Marty
 
This is probably a stupid question, but is there a way to get the balance shaft belt back on without taking off the crankshaft pulley? The belt doesn't fit if I don't but wasn't sure if there was a secret or trick that I didn't know about.

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This is probably a stupid question, but is there a way to get the balance shaft belt back on without taking off the crankshaft pulley? The belt doesn't fit if I don't but wasn't sure if there was a secret or trick that I didn't know about.

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Not that I know of. Factory procedure is to remove the crank bolt while holding the sprockett with an immobilizer tool. Most people make the tool by drilling two holes in a piece of bar stock to match the harmonic balancer bolts, though I think I've seen spanners among the rental tools at local auto parts shops. Do make sure to tighten the balancer bolts securely against the brace, I once had a loose brace bust out the sides of the holes in the crank sprocket!
 
If you are timing with the balance shafts make sure to follow the service manual instructions and remove the plug/bolt in the rear of the engine to get the rear shaft timed right. It is not enough just to line up the marks on the oil pump drive.
This ^ but you can also use the gravity trick to time the oil pump gear correctly. Video is of a 2g but it's the same process for a 1g DSM and Evo

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If you end up deleting the balance shafts get the lower pressure oil pump spring and lightly port the oil pressure relief hole and check the oil pressure till you get it right at idle and ideally have it max out at 75lbs give or take.
 
On the downhill stretch of putting this engine and transmission back together. When getting ready to install the shifter forks back in the transmission, we noticed that this part of the shifting mechanism was broken. It looks like it was spot welded before and one of the welds broke. I'm not a welder so not sure if this can be spot welded again or do I need to go on the hunt trying to find this part. It looks like a pain to take off.

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