1G 1g Replacement Engine 92 Eagle Talon

[pauleyman]

If I'm this far into a motor I'm replacing seals which makes the gravity method unreliable. Easier to check it with the bolt hole with motor on a stand. Assuming youre keeping balance shafts that is.

On the downhill stretch of putting this engine and transmission back together. When getting ready to install the shifter forks back in the transmission, we noticed that this part of the shifting mechanism was broken. It looks like it was spot welded before and one of the welds broke. I'm not a welder so not sure if this can be spot welded again or do I need to go on the hunt trying to find this part. It looks like a pain to take off.

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The 2nd pics looks like its bent. Thr left side should be parallel to the right side. You can install the rails all by themselves and see that they all function.

 

[Ellibeest]

If I'm this far into a motor I'm replacing seals which makes the gravity method unreliable. Easier to check it with the bolt hole with motor on a stand. Assuming youre keeping balance shafts that is.

I'm confused by this statement. Both pics are of the same part, just slightly different angle. Also I have no idea what the gravity method is?!?!?

 

[pauleyman]

I'm confused by this statement. Both pics are of the same part, just slightly different angle. Also I have no idea what the gravity method is?!?!?

Its may just be the photograph. That bracket is essentially square. The photo suggests it isn't anymore.

The "gravity method" and a brief balance shaft tutorial are as follows. The rear balance shaft is geared behind the oil pump. It must be "in phase" or you'll get some vibration. Its geared 1:3. Balance shafts are simply a weighted shaft designed to counter engine harmonic vibration. They spin at a multiple of engine RPM. The front shaft is visible and obvious when its in time. The rear is not. Even if the oil pump mark is lined up the shaft can be out of phase. The factory manual shows a bolt on the side of the block you can remove and stick a screwdriver in. Only when the shaft is in phase can you insert. The other two positions, the shaft weight blocks the hole. We learned that if you line up the oil pump then move it away from the mark a little bit gravity will pull the weight. If its in phase it tends to return to the mark. If its out of phase it tends to turn away. Each full spin of the oil pump will phase the shaft in one of 3 positions. Only one of those has the weight at the bottom. This usually only works on used seals. If you just installed new seals its too tight and the gravity method for checking phase becomes unreliable. This is all a method to avoid taking that bolt out because its inconvenient.

 

[Ellibeest]

Its may just be the photograph. That bracket is essentially square. The photo suggests it isn't anymore.

The "gravity method" and a brief balance shaft tutorial are as follows. The rear balance shaft is geared behind the oil pump. It must be "in phase" or you'll get some vibration. Its geared 1:3. Balance shafts are simply a weighted shaft designed to counter engine harmonic vibration. They spin at a multiple of engine RPM. The front shaft is visible and obvious when its in time. The rear is not. Even if the oil pump mark is lined up the shaft can be out of phase. The factory manual shows a bolt on the side of the block you can remove and stick a screwdriver in. Only when the shaft is in phase can you insert. The other two positions, the shaft weight blocks the hole. We learned that if you line up the oil pump then move it away from the mark a little bit gravity will pull the weight. If its in phase it tends to return to the mark. If its out of phase it tends to turn away. Each full spin of the oil pump will phase the shaft in one of 3 positions. Only one of those has the weight at the bottom. This usually only works on used seals. If you just installed new seals its too tight and the gravity method for checking phase becomes unreliable. This is all a method to avoid taking that bolt out because its inconvenient.

Got it. I just took the bolt. out. It was easy enough to with the engine out. We got the engine timed on Saturday. However I chipped the harmonic balancer wheel when pulling off the time belt cog Ordered a replacement and it should be here Wednesday.

Luckily we have had a warm winter and the wife isn't complaining about not being able to pull her car in the garage. Targeting 2 weeks to have this wrapped up. Then fingers crossed that it runs after re-installing everything.

 

[pauleyman]

Got it. I just took the bolt. out. It was easy enough to with the engine out. We got the engine timed on Saturday. However I chipped the harmonic balancer wheel when pulling off the time belt cog Ordered a replacement and it should be here Wednesday.

Luckily we have had a warm winter and the wife isn't complaining about not being able to pull her car in the garage. Targeting 2 weeks to have this wrapped up. Then fingers crossed that it runs after re-installing everything.

For the sake of future issues how did you break a pulley? Generally nothing in that area requires any special tools to remove.

 

[Ellibeest]

For the sake of future issues how did you break a pulley? Generally nothing in that area requires any special tools to remove.

The timing belt cog was not coming off so I could put the balance shaft belt on. I put the harmonic balancer back on and use a puller that I knew was the right size and I chipped it. Lesson for the day - If you know the tool might cause more damage, don't use it!

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[pauleyman]

I assume by now you know you have to remove the center bolt to get that gear off?

 

[Ellibeest]

I really hate asking this but before I get to far in putting this gs back together I want to ask the experts here.

Unfortunately, I have a few projects going on my garage and thing this piece may have gotten mixed in with the parts to the Talon. My oldest and I don't recognize or remember taking this bracket off but aren't for sure. Does this look like anything that would go to the transmission or engine? I feel like an idiot asking this.

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[19Eclipse90]

One end slides over the stud (lower arrow) and uses a washer and nut. The other end is bolted to the engine mount bracket (top arrow, driver side “L-mount).

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[Ellibeest]

One end slides over the stud (lower arrow) and uses a washer and nut. The other end is bolted to the engine mount bracket (top arrow, driver side “L-mount”).

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Thank you. I was worried that this went to something and we would have to pull the engine back out

 

[Ellibeest]

Its been awhile since I gave an update on the progress. Got the engine and transmission all put together and it runs!! That is the good news. Bad news it has a major coolant leak. We did some investigation and found a bolt on the water pump didn't get tightened all the way. Made sure there wasn't any other signs of a leak and put everything back together. Fired it up again and still leaking a lot. Could we have just got a bad water pump or any other ideas.

Video. Not sure if the squeak from wet belts or something else.

 

[pauleyman]

Its been awhile since I gave an update on the progress. Got the engine and transmission all put together and it runs!! That is the good news. Bad news it has a major coolant leak. We did some investigation and found a bolt on the water pump didn't get tightened all the way. Made sure there wasn't any other signs of a leak and put everything back together. Fired it up again and still leaking a lot. Could we have just got a bad water pump or any other ideas.

Video. Not sure if the squeak from wet belts or something else.

Pull the pump and replace the gasket. Id say high possibility you missed a small piece of the old gasket also. Look closely.

 

[Ellibeest]

Pull the pump and replace the gasket. Id say high possibility you missed a small piece of the old gasket also. Look closely.

Thanks Pauleyman. Hopefully a third time is a charm. I am not good enough to do this without pulling the engine and tranny, but hopefully third time is a charm! My son and I are getting pretty good. Took us 3.5 hours last time to put the engine in and hook everything up.

 

[pauleyman]

I wouldn't pull anything. Its not difficult. Timing belt and waterpump is about a 3 hr job start to finish. Less if youre not having to clean up a bunch of stuff. Last time I had to go back in and redo one I think it was like an hour?
Timing belt and pump looks hard but it isn't. Just tedious. Need to move engine up and down sometimes. Wood block under pan and a jack will do it.

 

[Ellibeest]

I wouldn't pull anything. Its not difficult. Timing belt and waterpump is about a 3 hr job start to finish. Less if youre not having to clean up a bunch of stuff. Last time I had to go back in and redo one I think it was like an hour?
Timing belt and pump looks hard but it isn't. Just tedious. Need to move engine up and down sometimes. Wood block under pan and a jack will do it.

We can get to most of the bolts for the cover but can't get to one of the cover bolts that is right next to the water pump behind the pully

 

[pauleyman]

We can get to most of the bolts for the cover but can't get to one of the cover bolts that is right next to the water pump behind the pully

1/4" 10mm socket. Ive done countless timing belt jobs. Maybe on a swivel. Haven't done one lately. Point is there is no trick to it. Simple hand tools. I assume you remove the water pump pulley before trying that bolt.

 

[19Eclipse90]

I use the small one out of this set from Harbor Freight with a 1/4” drive 10mm socket and appropriate size wrench to get at that bolt. Only mention it to emphasize it’s possible and not much of a hassle with simple hand tools, like Paul says.

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[Ellibeest]

Thanks for the tips and advice. Got it replaced and letting the rvt gasket set overnight. Fingers crossed.

Now to figure out why its not shifting into 5th after rebuilding the transmission and replacing the 3rd and 4th synchro. It goes into reverse just fine.

Heavy sigh...

 

[pauleyman]

Thanks for the tips and advice. Got it replaced and letting the rvt gasket set overnight. Fingers crossed.

Now to figure out why its not shifting into 5th after rebuilding the transmission and replacing the 3rd and 4th synchro. It goes into reverse just fine.

Heavy sigh...

What was the preload on the bearings? Did you get the 5th/rev sleeve assembled correctly? The hubs and the sleeves are not symmetrical and do go on in a particular orientation.