1g fuel rail tap size?(afpr setup)

[laserburnt']

I have done the search and at least found a couple of answers, but the reality is i need a straight answer for the following...
Tap size for the fuel rail to put in a -6 an fitting, which is what i intend to run to and from the rail.
Aeromotive regulator 13109.
I intend to run the regulator right from a 90 cast angle from the rail, but refuse to pay the almighty dollar for the conversion fitting.
Findings on the search include one member using a 3/4npt/-6an fitting(only available in straight), and another person using a 3/8npt/-6an. WTH? HUGE DIFFERENCE IN SIZE!!!
Any clarification would greatly be appreciated!!!
Thankx

 

[laserburnt']

bump......WISEMAN?..........

 

[absolute_DSM]

Ugh, this isnt a Honda forum, dont bump your post. If Defiant sees this consider it closed.

I easily use a M18x1.5 tap with a M18 to -6 or -8 AN adapter fitting.

 

[92awddsm]

I use a 3/8 npt tap and used a 3/8 to-8 fitting. The same is available for -6 also.

Pass side Earl's Performance 982366ERL - Earl's Performance AN to NPT Adapter Fittings - summitracing.com

Driver side to regulator Summit SUM-220652 - Summit AN to NPT Adapter Fittings - summitracing.com

I didnt go the metric route because they usually arent readily available like the npt type fittings.

 

[boosting_laser]

I tapped my rail with a 3/4"-16 tap.

Fittings:

-6 w/ o-ring

-6 90* w/ o-ring

 

[absolute_DSM]

^ True. I use ANplumbing for all Earl fittings and they are great to deal with. They have never caused me any problems or not been able to get a part for me.

Plus with NPT fittings you wouldnt need the aluminum crush washers Ill have to remember that.

 

[92awddsm]

I tapped my rail with a 3/4"-16 tap.

Fittings:

-6 w/ o-ring

-6 90* w/ o-ring

Why does the 90* fitting have left hand threads? I think that may be the wrong part #.

Another advantage to using npt as opposed to metric or sae straight threads is oreintation of angled fittings when tight. With o-rings or crush washers, once it is tight, it is tight. If it is a 90* fitting and pointed 180* opposite of what it needs to be, the only remedy is to start indexing (stacking crush washers or o-rings until it points to where it needs to) which is prone to leak. With npt fittings, once tight, you should have at least120* of adjustment tighter to get the optimal oreintation of the fitting.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Another advantage to using npt as opposed to metric or sae straight threads is oreintation of angled fittings when tight. With o-rings or crush washers, once it is tight, it is tight. If it is a 90* fitting and pointed 180* opposite of what it needs to be, the only remedy is to start indexing (stacking crush washers or o-rings until it points to where it needs to) which is prone to leak. With npt fittings, once tight, you should have at least120* of adjustment tighter to get the optimal oreintation of the fitting.

Well put. It may cost more, but I use straight AN adapters, then 90* swivels.

Ill learn how to save money eventually.

 

[laserburnt']

Sorry for the bump, but................

Thankx for the info fellaz!!! Feel free to add more, as I said this (old-previous)info is a little skechy!

Also, is there enough room on the driver's side to run a 3/8-6an staight fitting and a -6an 90* with swivels without hitting the covers? Any pics?

 

[EricR287]

A few months ago I tapped an extra fuel rail for 3/8" npt and I'm using 3/8 to -6 an fittings from earl's. I just installed it yesterday along with an AFPR. I've tried twice now (removing and tightening) to get the NPT side of the adapter to NOT LEAK. The second time I really cranked on the fuel rail while using a screwdriver thru one of the 3 mounting holes along with keeping the rail portion held in a bench vice. This worked better than the first time, but I still have an extremely slight leak. At this point I'm tempted to jb weld the threads...

Any suggestions? Any one else have these problems? Should I not use teflon tape?

 

[92awddsm]

A few months ago I tapped an extra fuel rail for 3/8" npt and I'm using 3/8 to -6 an fittings from earl's. I just installed it yesterday along with an AFPR. I've tried twice now (removing and tightening) to get the NPT side of the adapter to NOT LEAK. The second time I really cranked on the fuel rail while using a screwdriver thru one of the 3 mounting holes along with keeping the rail portion held in a bench vice. This worked better than the first time, but I still have an extremely slight leak. At this point I'm tempted to jb weld the threads...

Any suggestions? Any one else have these problems? Should I not use teflon tape?

You have to use a fuel safe sealer or tape. All tapered pipe threads need some sort of seler on them.

 

[EricR287]

I bet it's the home plumbing kind of teflon tape I'm using. I didn't realize it would make a difference. Thanks!

Edit: after searching around I found that loctite 567 is supposed to work very well.

 

[We're on Boost]

My 2 cents on thread sealers: I've had very bad luck with teflon tape, very good luck with Loctite anaerobic thread sealant.
The teflon tape seems to creep gradually, so that even if it doesn't leak at first, it will leak a few days later.
The Loctite anaerobic thread sealant seems to stay put and works great. I've found with air fittings you don't even have to tighten the fitting all that much and it will still seal.
I've done this a lot with air fittings but not with fuel yet. So for what it's worth. But I would pick out the Loctite thread sealant that is recommended for fuels and elevated temps - looks like Loctite 567 PST would be the one - temps to 400 deg F and excellent solvent resistance.
- Product - Henkel
The Technical Data Sheet for this product is very informative!