Resolved 1G Electrical gremlin after new motor

[enriquez2000]

Put new motor in today and everything looks good except Im not getting power to overhead lights and radio... at least thats all so far.i stopped because my power to radio powers my oil gauge

Pulled fuses and all good. Im just not getting power to the cabin fuse box. Any of you electrical geniuses have a starting point?

pretty confident I didnt miss any grounds or power cables...

 

[19Eclipse90]

And all you did was work in the engine bay? Nothing in the interior?

 

[enriquez2000]

And all you did was work in the engine bay? Nothing in the interior?

Correct... just a new motor

Ill have to find the wiring diagram and trace the power sources to interior fuse panel. Logic said it should be the fuses but they are all good.

Ecu has power
Gauges(stock) have power
Blinkers blink on dash
OD on and off and power eco work
Alternator is working
No CELs
Havent checked head and tail lamps as headlights are still off

 

[19Eclipse90]

Radio power is described in the FSM:

With radio power switch on and ignition switch at “ACC” or “ON”, current flows through (multipurpose, interior junction block) fuse No. 4, radio, and ground, causing the radio to operate.

The ignition switch gets its power through the IGN fuse on the positive battery terminal. Grounding point is in the trunk by the hatch’s latch.

They share some ties with sub fusible link 6 (40A fuse in engine compartment - which provides power to multipurpose fuses 1, 6, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 19), the IOD storage connector, multipurpose fuse 19, the taillight relay, and the ignition switch.

You said you checked all fuses - both inside the cabin and in the engine bay? And with a meter?

 

[enriquez2000]

Radio power is described in the FSM:


The ignition switch gets its power through the IGN fuse on the positive battery terminal. Grounding point is in the trunk by the hatch’s latch.

They share some ties with sub fusible link 6 (40A fuse in engine compartment - which provides power to multipurpose fuses 1, 6, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 19), the IOD storage connector, multipurpose fuse 19, the taillight relay, and the ignition switch.

You said you checked all fuses - both inside the cabin and in the engine bay? And with a meter?

Fuses have continuity... the dead circuits in the cabin fuse box are labeled

Room
Stop
Heater
Door locks

I swapped fuses around as well just for piece of mind. No power is hitting the block on those connections.

Can fire up the car and idles fine but i killed it on the fresh motor since I cant see my oil psi

Also weird but with nothing attatched to the positive terminal i get continuity to the body...

 

[19Eclipse90]

These are the fuse numbers for those:

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But if 6, 7, and 19 are dead and 1, 13, 14, 15, and 16 are not, I’m not sure how it can be anything outside of the junction block itself. It’s one wire from sub fusible link 6 in the engine bay to the junction block inside the car providing battery voltage to each of those.

 

[enriquez2000]

These are the fuse numbers for those:

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But if 6, 7, and 19 are dead and 1, 13, 14, 15, and 16 are not, I’m not sure how it can be anything outside of the junction block itself. It’s one wire from sub fusible link 6 in the engine bay to the junction block inside the car providing battery voltage to each of those.

Its the heater circuit below stop thats dead

Im stumped at the moment. Any idea why the battery with no pwer leads on it would get continuity to body ground?

 

[enriquez2000]

Am I seeing this right? It looks like all those things on the right are dead... im tired and electrical isnt my forte

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[enriquez2000]

Resolved.... 80amp link popped.. must have shorted something.. now to find one

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[danl]

That fuse should only give the alternator the ability to send power to the engine bay fuse block and the battery. With it disconnected, the battery should still be able to power your radio and gauge.

I know you said resolved, but did this actually fix your issue or is it something you just found?

 

[19Eclipse90]

Am I seeing this right? It looks like all those things on the right are dead... im tired and electrical isnt my forte

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That’s correct. That’s why I was asking about all of those fuses. The highlighted wire here is the one I was referring to; either none or all get fed with that wire. If some get power and others don’t, bad junction box (somehow). If none do, check that wire, it’s connection to the junction block, and subfusible link 6, so long as other accessories are working (like power windows, seat belts, fans).

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That fuse should only give the alternator the ability to send power to the engine bay fuse block and the battery. With it disconnected, the battery should still be able to power your radio and gauge.

I know you said resolved, but did this actually fix your issue or is it something you just found?

Not quite. Through the 80A fuse, sub fusible links 2, 3, 4, 5, and ::drumrollplease:: 6 get power.

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I don’t know if that voltage is keeping things powered off from the normal path the service manual describes (main fusible link, ignition switch, multipurpose fuse #4, radio, and ground). If the radio now powers on after replacing the fuse, then I would assume so.

Again, this is why I asked if you tested all fuses in the cabin and in the engine bay.

 

[enriquez2000]

That fuse should only give the alternator the ability to send power to the engine bay fuse block and the battery. With it disconnected, the battery should still be able to power your radio and gauge.

I know you said resolved, but did this actually fix your issue or is it something you just found?

Didnt have one when I found it. Ill grab one at vato zone today and circle back.

Again, this is why I asked if you tested all fuses in the cabin and in the engine bay.

I somehow missed that one until my 2nd run through of the bay. I was focusing too much on the cabin because I couldnt for the life me understand why only some had power and others didnt.

hoping the 80amp fuse fixes my issue. I found what popped it as well. Had an upgraded ALT terminal that had just barely brushed up against a body bolt

 

[enriquez2000]

Well.. new fuse blew immediately.. something is shorted somewhere... now to order more fusible links since there was only 1 available

 

[danl]

Remove fuses 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and then check for a short to ground. Your alternator post should NOT have a good path to ground with those fused removed. You may have to remove the alternator power cable as I am unsure if the alternator will have a path to ground. You can add the fuses back in to see if you have a hard short to ground. The issue is that some motors will act like a short to ground, so it can be tricky. 10 ohms to ground is different than 0.1 ohm to ground.

Fix the short or you’ll be back to square one with the new fuse.

 

[enriquez2000]

Remove fuses 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and then check for a short to ground. Your alternator post should NOT have a good path to ground with those fused removed. You may have to remove the alternator power cable as I am unsure if the alternator will have a path to ground. You can add the fuses back in to see if you have a hard short to ground. The issue is that some motors will act like a short to ground, so it can be tricky. 10 ohms to ground is different than 0.1 ohm to ground.

Fix the short or you’ll be back to square one with the new fuse.

I will do all that but whats weird is with nothing at all connected to positive terminal i can put a lead on it and then one the frame and there is continuity. I dont feel like thats normal is it?

 

[danl]

Meters will show continuity through a motor because they are essentially a short through the coils when not moving. That fuses 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 are not blown but the 80A alternator fuse is, tells me that the short is not likely to be the circuits fuses 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. It is more likely to be the alternator itself or the power wire running from the alternator to the fuse block. If you remove fuse 1 (the 80A alternator fuse) and fuses 2-6, then remove the alternator power wire from the alternator post, it should not read any resistance to ground.

 

[enriquez2000]

Meters will show continuity through a motor because they are essentially a short through the coils when not moving. That fuses 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 are not blown but the 80A alternator fuse is, tells me that the short is not likely to be the circuits fuses 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. It is more likely to be the alternator itself or the power wire running from the alternator to the fuse block. If you remove fuse 1 (the 80A alternator fuse) and fuses 2-6, then remove the alternator power wire from the alternator post, it should not read any resistance to ground.

Did a continuity check from alternator cable to chasis and bam... checked at the alternator and the big terminal was in the 6 position intstead of the 3(upgraded wiring). Shifted it to 6 and continuity to chasis appears gone... unfortunatrly no 80amp fuse to test with now

 

[enriquez2000]

I am lost... with no battery in the car there is no continuity. As soon as i put the battery in and hook up ground to chasis with no positive leads continuity comes back. Tested on both manifolds and trans bolts. Removed the fan ground wire just to be sure.

Wonder if i have a battery short now somehow?

 

[enriquez2000]

All fixed... it was that damn alternator wire.. solid running fresh build now

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