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1G died while driving...

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Egushu

Probationary Member
21
0
May 2, 2004
Everett, Washington
Yesterday I had driven my 1G Talon TSi AWD during the afternoon. That night, about ten hours later, I got in it and drove it less than a quarter mile when it just died on me. I was going 25mph, and when it died there were no sounds of any sort. My headlights and dashlights remained on and did not dim, so I doubt it is my battery or alternator. I pulled over and tried to restart my car, but it would only turnover. Eventually someone came along and towed me to my apt. with a tow rope. I tried starting it while rolling but the engine only turned over.

I've spoken to two different DSM enthusiasts and they both thought it might be my ECU. I pulled the ECU today and took the cover off to see if my capacitors were leaking, but it looks fine.

If anyone has experienced similar problems and/or knows what the problem is and how to fix it, please help me out. Thanks.

- Chris
 
Start with the basics. Are you getting fuel? Are you getting spark? Check those out. Could be many things from a bad coil pack to a dead fuel pump relay.
 
One of the guys I spoke to also mentioned that it could be the coil pack. I don't see why it would be the spark plugs since it died while I was driving. The fuel pump is a possibility. How can I go about checking the coil pack and fuel pump to see if they're in working order? Also, anything else anyone might think the problem could be?
 
from your description we need more info about the basic tests like are you getting fuel pressure or spark. first check to see if the timing belt is ok simple to do there is that cover that sticks up into where the bump is in the hood there is a few screws holding it on. look to see if the belt is shredded or broke. i have seen people get lucky anot smash valves when timing belts break. don't do any more cranking till you check the belt. assuming you don't have a multimeter the easiest way to check for spark is to take one of the plug wires off and stick a screw driver in it and hold it close to something metal on the car, then crank it they do sell spark testers but have fun finding one. also if you get shocked when cracnking thats a good thing. next for the fuel turn the key on listen for the fuel pump to see if it is completely dead. if you hear nothing then test for power to the pump before jumping into replacing it. you can get a fuel pressure test gauge pretty cheap some you will have to disconnect where the fuel line goes in to the fuel rail plug it into the gauge and turn the key on. if that is ok next a cheap test for the injectors getting there signal. stick a noid/aka led in an injector harness to see if you are getting a pulse. then let us know the results can we can better direct you from there

just wondering how can you tell if caps are leaking by looking at them. all caps leaks up to certain extent, just when they get bad enough is when it affects your circuit. the only way i can tell how much leakage a cap has it to hook it up to a tester in my lab class
 
I pulled the ECU and looked at it--it looked fine. I was thinking it may be the coil pack or the fuel filter and/or pump, but first I pulled the timing belt cover. Turns out the belt is stripped along one side and it was loose.

It doesn't look as if there is any major damage, hopefully only minor. I was driving at about 20mph when it broke, and I didn't hear any sounds. I tried starting it four or five times after the incident, letting the engine turn over for one or two seconds only, so I hope nothing was damaged because of that.

Anyhow, I'm going to read up on how to replace the timing belt and everything recommended to change with it. If anyone has any suggestions as to what kind of damage to look for, where I can find the cheapest parts for my '91 TSi, and any helpful tips not stated in any faq/walkthroughs, I'd appreciate it. Thanks
 
Do a leak down test and see if you bent your valves. If your not in for a big job or don't have a lot of money its not going to matter when you replace the belt and still have bent valves. Head rebuilds cost $$$
 
Sorry to hear that dude - but that "sudden death" thing is usually T/B... You'd have to MANUALLY re-time it before any Compression test meant anything - They are bent anyway.
 
So you think that no matter what, just because I happened to be driving (doesn't matter at what speed), that I need to replace my head because my valves are automatically bent when the t/b fails?

If so, I was thinking of getting a new head for it anyway. It's had a bad ticking noise--I'm assuming lifters--for the whole past year I've owned it. Also, when I first got it I ran a compression check and two of the cylinders were low. When driving and I step on the gas, blackish smoke comes out the exhaust, so maybe the rings are bad too. Will getting a new head solve these problems?

If I'm going to start replacing old parts with new parts, I want to go ahead and do everything I can to get the engine as new as possible without doing a complete rebuild.

Thanks for your help.
 
Egushu said:
So you think that no matter what, just because I happened to be driving (doesn't matter at what speed), that I need to replace my head because my valves are automatically bent when the t/b fails?
Virtually always. If not from the chassis coasting, then from turning it over with the starter.
 
Pull the valve cover and check for loose rockers. Forget the leakdown. Theres no room for these interference engines so your stripped belt is a sure sign that your pistons and valves had a nice rendezvous.
 
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