1g Clutch PEDAL Adjustment???

[tsi1991awd]

Is there a pedal adjustment that can be made aside from the master cylinder rod? I adjusted the rod a month ago and noticed tonight that it engages almost immediately after I let off the floor.

I did what was said according to the video...where you turn the rod, check to see if the slave pushes in and if it does you turn the rod more. Then when the slave can't be pushed freely, you back it out just until the slave can be pushed in freely then tighten the nut. I'll try and check adjustment again, but I don't know....maybe my clutch is shot

 

[nate379]

I need to fix mine, clutch barely releases with the pedal all the way on the floor. If I don't quite push it hard enough it will grind gears and it's hard to get in reverse.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

When you put the new master in, be sure the lock-nut is all the way back (towards the engine bay). This might or might not make a difference with the adjustment but is more easy on the installer. Then once you get your pedal and master rod connected adjust it to what your car needs. Let me know how it turns out.

Do you need help with your problem nate or do you know what the problem is and haven't gotten around to fixing it yet?

 

[tsi1991awd]

Another question then. Does the rod on the master need any type of grease? What about the slave boot? If so, what kind? I know wheel bearing grease is not to be used....

 

[iwillnotbleed]

As far as I know, that answer is no. I have never greased my master or slave and they're fine. You need to bleed the Master if you're not using a pressure bleeder though.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Well I bled the clutch and it works....thing is it slips sometimes. Theres also chattering....guess its time for a new clutch

 

[tsi1991awd]

My clutch officially took a dump on me today. It had been slipping after 3500rpm and today I was coming home from the bank, about half a mile from my house I turned down the street, was in first gear and it started slipping...si I shifted to second and it started slipping in second, and it was time to go into third so I went into third and NOTHING happened. I put it back into second and still nothing happened. So I coasted as far as I could and pulled over. Called up my buddy to bring his truck to tow me to my house.

Got home, put it into first gear and tried to move and it didn't go. So I took it OUT of gear and didn't push in the clutch but tried to put it into gear and it started grinding, so I know it's doing something when the clutch is pushed in. I checked the slave and it is moving out like it's supposed to. No clue what's up with it. Why would it go into gear just fine and then not move when I let off the clutch? I can fully let off and have it reved up as if I was trying to go forward and it doesn't even die....it's like I have it in neutral, except I have it in gear. Does this in all gears. No clue what's up!

Fidanza 3.2 clutch and Fidanza flywheel are on the way though...along with a new clutch fork, pivot ball, OEM TOB and clip. Just waiting for it to get here then I guess I'm hauling the car to the shop.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

That's the same clutch and flywheel I put in my car not long ago. Everythings a bit stiff at first. Nice pedal feel all the way to the floor and it grabs like a mother. Stiffer spings on the pressure plate though. If you have problems with the clutch engaging half an inch to an inch off the floor let me know. It sounds like your tranny is ok because it's going in to gear. It's most likely your clutch just took a crap and wont grab at all. Make sure you get an OEM throw out bearing. They can withstand a lot more and don't fall apart as often.

 

[tsi1991awd]

That's the same clutch and flywheel I put in my car not long ago. Everythings a bit stiff at first. Nice pedal feel all the way to the floor and it grabs like a mother. Stiffer spings on the pressure plate though. If you have problems with the clutch engaging half an inch to an inch off the floor let me know. It sounds like your tranny is ok because it's going in to gear. It's most likely your clutch just took a crap and wont grab at all. Make sure you get an OEM throw out bearing. They can withstand a lot more and don't fall apart as often.

The clutch just came in today...I made the mistake of ordering the fork, TOB, clip and pivot ball from another site (STM) I didn't realize extremepsi sold them as well. So now I have to wait until next Wednesday for the rest of it to show up. And then it's off to the shop! The clutch and flywheel look real nice, can't wait to see how it performs. I'll probably drive about 700 or 800 miles to fully break it in since I mainly do highway driving.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

Clutch break in, at least for this kit, is 500 miles of city driving or around town. Yeah, you will feel the difference. Revs a little bit faster and grabs a hell of a lot harder than stock. Very fun once you get used to it.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Yea I used to have a 6 puck on my Accord until I totalled it. It took a littl bit to get used to especially with the lightweight flywheel. I was kind of skeptical on the smoothness of engagement with the 4 puck Fidanza but i guess ill just have to see.

 

[boostedorbusted]

i just replace the pedal assembly in my 93 what a pain i hope thats not it for you. if it is shep rebuilds them for 120+core. good luck man.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

Just had my pedal assembly rebuilt by septrans to. That's why I say with a more stiff pressure plate you might need to get it rebuilt. The clutch pedal shaft and that linkage just couldn't hold up.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Forgot to mention. I got under the dash to check the pedal...as soon as i start pushing the pedal with my hand the master rod starts to push in. I dont know if someone replaced the bushings before or if theres just mo problem with mine yet. I dont know where to look exactly for the worn parts....anyone have a picture of what im looking for? Theres no freeplay. When i push the pedal all the way and let it back up I cant pull it any higher.

 

[toofast82]

Forgot to mention. I got under the dash to check the pedal...as soon as i start pushing the pedal with my hand the master rod starts to push in. I dont know if someone replaced the bushings before or if theres just mo problem with mine yet. I dont know where to look exactly for the worn parts....anyone have a picture of what im looking for? Theres no freeplay. When i push the pedal all the way and let it back up I cant pull it any higher.

sounds like your pedal is still good then. the problem is: the the little bar(zbar) that actually pushes to the master is grooved and fits into the pedal shaft. the shaft wears the groove on the zbar causing the shaft to slip on it.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

When you test to see if the linkage or zbar is worn you will be pulling your pedal back towards the drivers seat. First, push the clutch in and let it come back up to it's resting position. Then pull back on the clutch pedal, to the drivers seat. Using your hands to pull the pedal back will most likely give you abetter feel for the play. You'll have about 1 to 2 inches more of freeplay by doing this, if the zbar is worn. If your still not sure, do not push the pedal back down yet. Make sure the clutch pedal is as far back, towards the drivers seat, as it will go. Get under your dash with a flashlight. Watch the clutch master cylinser rod closely and depress the pedal. If the master rod does not move as soon as you depress the pedal your zbar is in need of replacing now or soon. I replaced mine but still had too much play so I sent my assembly to Sheptrans.com and got it rebuilt(brass bearings and welded). Haven't had any more clutch problems scince.

 

[tsi1991awd]

When you test to see if the linkage or zbar is worn you will be pulling your pedal back towards the drivers seat. First, push the clutch in and let it come back up to it's resting position. Then pull back on the clutch pedal, to the drivers seat. Using your hands to pull the pedal back will most likely give you abetter feel for the play. You'll have about 1 to 2 inches more of freeplay by doing this, if the zbar is worn. If your still not sure, do not push the pedal back down yet. Make sure the clutch pedal is as far back, towards the drivers seat, as it will go. Get under your dash with a flashlight. Watch the clutch master cylinser rod closely and depress the pedal. If the master rod does not move as soon as you depress the pedal your zbar is in need of replacing now or soon. I replaced mine but still had too much play so I sent my assembly to Sheptrans.com and got it rebuilt(brass bearings and welded). Haven't had any more clutch problems scince.

There's no play in it. I can't pull it up after I push it down. Guess I'm good for the moment....who knows maybe someone already fixed it before.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

That's cool. Be happy that it hasen't gone out on you because it's a pain in the ass to get that pedal assembly out, if you were to go that route. Have fun with your new clutch.

 

[tsi1991awd]

That's cool. Be happy that it hasen't gone out on you because it's a pain in the ass to get that pedal assembly out, if you were to go that route. Have fun with your new clutch.

Thanks man...I am taking it up to the shop in an hour...i figure itll be done this afternoon so ill let you know how it all goes later today.

 

[mobythevan]

I had to remove my clutch assembly twice because I welded it the first time, the second time I just put all new parts in.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

The problem ,that most don't know of, when you weld your assembly is the bushings. Scince they are plastic you can't get a good weld. Trying to be carefull and not melt the bushings is the problem. If you go to Sheptrans.com there are two ways you can fix that problem. You can order there brass bushings and weld the assembly yourself or you can send your assembly in to get it rebuilt. Rebuilt comes with the new brass bushings, they weldthe assembly, and I'm almost positive they replace your clutch pedal and the Z-Bar.

 

[tsi1991awd]

HUGE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So the shop just got everything together, and the clutch WON'T release. They shimmed the pivot ball, adjusted the master cylinder, adjusted the pedal, adjusted everything. The owner has been doing DSMs since 1995, so I know he knows his shit. Well respected shop and I have only heard good things about them.

He says he believes it is the FIDANZA FLYWHEEL being too shallow...meaning it's not within spec. So now he has to take it all back apart and charge me another $500 to put the resurfaced stock one in and see if that takes care of the problem. What a bi***....anyone had this problem before???

 

[Cypress_h]

did you get the new components, and shouldnt the shop be eating some of this cost based on there diagnostic of the situation

 

[tsi1991awd]

Everything was brand new. Brand new OEM clutch fork, fulcrum ball, throwout bearing, TOB clip, flywheel bolts. Fidanza 3.2 clutch and pressure plate, Fidanza flywheel.

They finished putting everything together at 5, and spent 3 hours trying to trouble shoot. They aren't charging me for those 3 hours....so I'd say they are biting it a bit.

 

[eagle_talon90]

Brand new flywheel should be in spec out of the box. But you should still always check it to make sure tho. With all new parts and it not working, I would definently agree that the shop should be fixing this for you on their penny. If everything was new, it's likely they made a mistake somewhere installing something.

 

[tsi1991awd]

I could really care less about the cost. i asked about what the problem could be. i know fidanza flywheels had a problem not being in spec...that could be an old issue but still. aside from installing the clutch disc backwards which would be kind of impossible, i dont know what the hell it could be. it has clutch drag if you put it in first THEN start the car and rev it up