1g Clutch PEDAL Adjustment???

[tsi1991awd]

Is there a pedal adjustment that can be made aside from the master cylinder rod? I adjusted the rod a month ago and noticed tonight that it engages almost immediately after I let off the floor.

I did what was said according to the video...where you turn the rod, check to see if the slave pushes in and if it does you turn the rod more. Then when the slave can't be pushed freely, you back it out just until the slave can be pushed in freely then tighten the nut. I'll try and check adjustment again, but I don't know....maybe my clutch is shot

 

[iwillnotbleed]

I had a similar problem if not the same one. It was also after I had put the same clutch setup on my car. By the way, if I have not said this before, do not even bother with an extension rod for your slave. Waste of time and money. To make a long story short, I replaced everything in my clutch system: SS clutch line (Made engagement reliable all the time), brand new OEM Master and Slave cylinders, hydraulic or pressurized bleeder (helped a lot more than I can explain but not the BIG problem), the clutch pedal and the Z-bar (could not hold up to the pressure and wore very quickly). I finally sent my pedal assebly to Sheptrans and had them rebuild and weld it. Works perfecly now. Not sure if this is the problem you are having or not but I hope it helps. The way I think about it is, 1G's have clutch linkage problems because the linking point on the end of your pedal shaft that the Z-bar slides onto, isn't a very solid link when you use a pressure plate that has more stiff springs on it.

 

[tsi1991awd]

My pedal still pushes the master right when its pushed down. i asked him that and he said it did and he checked the pedal assembly because he knew thats a problem point on 1g's. if the stock flywheel doesnt fix it monday then i say fuxk the car and he can keep that shit

 

[iwillnotbleed]

Yeah, I thought that wasn't gonna be the problem. Well, just to make sure about all this, you have an all wheel drive right? If so, did you get the awd slave cylinder? It's a long shot but you never know. Um............only other thing I can think of is clutch adjustment or something to do with the flywheel or pressure plate's measurments. When I put my clutch in, I put the stock things next to the replacements and made sure they were the same width/thickness. I put the old flywheel next to the new one and made sure they had the same clearence. Wow, i'm rackin' my brain for you man but I can't come up with anything. I hope you find out what's wrong. These cars are too much fun and too time consuming to give up on. Good luck. Keep me updated.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Yea man i got the AWD and AWD slave. he said he really believes the flywheel isnt in spec and with the resurfaced stock wheel there will be enough there for the clutch to release. the problem now is that it wont release.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

figure out what it was?

 

[tsi1991awd]

figure out what it was?

They took it all apart last week, they said they checked the step height on the flywheel and it was .605", stock spec is .610" so they called Fidanza and told them the problem and Fidanza said send in all the parts and they'll look at it and see what's up.

So they sent the parts back and I called Fidanza, talked to a guy named Aaron (he spoke with Andre, my mechanic) and Aaron said he spec'd out all the parts and everything was in spec. Andre had told him that he had to force the clutch disc on because the splines were too tight. Well, Aaron said the disc was warped because of that (which a warped disc WILL cause disengagement issues) So he said he will send a new disc at no cost, but if it gets ####ed up again, he will charge me next time....even though it isn't MY fault, it's the shop. So, I've been trying to get the tracking number from them so I know when I'll be getting my shit back and they haven't returned my calls or emails so I don't know what's up with that.

So this ALL could've been avoided if the shop had CALLED ME and said they were having a problem getting the disc on, asking me what they wanted ME to do. Instead they took it upon themselves to force the disc on and have it bind to the input shaft, causing it not to disengage. Way to go....now I paid $80 to ship the parts to Fidanza 2nd day air for nothing really.

 

[IceMinion]

I have had mixed success with 1G DSM clutches.

The first and most important step is to get a new/good clutch.

Second, since most aftermarket clutches are geometrically different then the factory ones, the clutch fork needs to be shimmed way, way different.

IF looking at the front of the transmission, I have been placing the clutch fork about 3/4 the way to the right (1/2) being about centered.

I have been going further and further to the right, with better and better results as I go further.

The last transmission I installed, I would say that it was as far over to the right as it could go, and it works great!

However, after replacing the master, slave, and flex lines, and ran all DOT5 fluid, it is spongy at first, then eventually firms up.

but once it firms up, it shifts great!

 

[tsi1991awd]

How many shims were you using under the pivot ball to get those results?

 

[iwillnotbleed]

That will make your engagemaent better but........the TOB sould not ride on the pressure plate with too much force all the time(like it is most likely doing). Unless you want to replace your TOB very often. Another issue from that is the pressure plate springs. They could get worn very fast i.e. bend break or loose the spring pressure that they need. Not saying that this shouldn't be done by anyone but it's something I would stay very far from doing. Shimming the pivot ball is fine with an aftermarket clutch and sometimes needed. But shimming should only go so far. Watch this video about shimming the pivot ball Transmission Videos. And you can shim the pivot ball too much. I did this once. The engagement was great but when I was in motion and the clutch pedal was released I would hear a slight rubbing/grinding. I found out that the clutch fork was actually rubbing on the pressure plate when I let the pedal out.

 

[tsi1991awd]

The problem was the disc itself. Got a new disc fromFidanza and t didnt fit.wouldnt fit a 92 tranny or seeral input shafts laying around the shop. nothing waswrong with the shafts. i filed doqn the splines on the disc and just for it to fit i had to file down waaay too much. didnt want to run it and strip the splines. so we tried an ACT street disc and it slid on justfine. Used the ACT disc with Fidanza pressure plate and flywheel and it works like a charm. Imagine that...two bad discs for me plus another guy that came in and had the same problem with the disc he bought.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Well have only one problem now. Car goes into all gears except reverse. Doesnt grind or anything it just simply will not go into reverse. and if i force it really hard it will drive forward!! wtf

 

[iwillnotbleed]

Might want to readjust the shift cables.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Might want to readjust the shift cables.

Adjusted them yesterday, then decided to give it another crack today and what do you know....works like a charm now! Went to the wrecking yard and picked up a 2g shift knob as well and boy does it shorten the throw A LOT!

 

[tsi1991awd]

Have a problem adjusting the hydraulic system. I move the master rod in (towards firewall) but no matter how far in it goes the slave can still be pushed in. Its supposed to come to a point where it cant be pushed in by hand...but it doesnt. What could it be?? I also noticed a very small leak at the bleeder screw on the slave. I tightened the hell out of it and it still leaks from around the hole on the slave. Could this be why the slave can still be pushed?? The hole is NOT stripped...neither is the screw. Should i just buy another bleeder screw?

 

[1gAWDlaser]

same problem with mine but it bleed out fine.. let me know if u figured it outi have my pin on the clutch pedal like 3 threds on the nut and still cant get it to come to stopping point like jacksontrans says on his videw

 

[motox-010]

I had the same issues with my '93 TSI AWD. I replaced all the components in the clutch system and flushed the fluid about 5 times and still had issues. Jumped on here and found out that it could be the rear trans/engine bolt. Jacked it up and sure as shit that bolt was loose. Tightened it up and everything was kosher.

 

[1gAWDlaser]

my mounts are solid and i checked that my problem actually i think is that one of my bolts on the transmission is stripped and i didnt think anything of and it just rests there in the hole causeing torque on the one bolt that is threaded as there only two holding the bracket to the tranny... i can actually see a rust mark around the good bolt telling me that it did move. i assume when i launch at 5100 it causes the tranny to move backwards not allowing me to put it in reverse and sometimes not 5th. then i drive it and the tranny settles back into place after a mile or so of driveing and it seems fine.. so im gonna put a coarse threaded bolt in and see what happens. unless someone has a better idea with the bolt not threading in.. any feedback much appreciated
thanks tho moto X

 

[motox-010]

Its been about two years since I did my trans and had that issue, but I think there are 4 or 5 bolts and the one I mentioned is right above the T-case output shaft IIRC. Its an odd ball bolt, I think the rest are 16mm and that one is 14mm and has a different thread. I wouldn't try to thread a coarse thread bolt in there. Might have to bite the bullet and pull the trans and figure out a way to fix the threads. I don't know how much I would trust a heli-coil in that spot. Maybe you could somehow fill the hole and then tap for the bolt. Don't really have any ideas on how you could do that.

And until its fixed don't drive it hard. When I was trying to figure my issue out I read that missing that bolt can cause some serious damage.

 

[1gAWDlaser]

I figured out what the problem was. There is a smaller bolt that is on the very back and bottom of the block. The bolt I used was a 16 mm bolt and the threads never made it to the tranny, not to mention it was too big to thread into the tranny to fully mate the tranny to the block. The bolt that needs to go there is the smaller bolt which i believe is a 14 mm bolt and it goes in from the block side and I believe that is the only bolt that comes from the block side to mate the tranny to the block.

 

[OMLJA0512]

Hey Guys I have a very similar problem as the OP. My car is a 91 Eclipse GS-T, I have a few other problems I haven't seen so far 1.) Clutch engages at the floor 2.) Gears Grind(reverse is a B**** to go in, if i manage to make it go in) 3.) When I do manage to make it run, since the clutch engages on the floor sometimes it stalls on me and I have to push start it to get going again, If I dont push start the starter just wines 4.) the Master cylinder rod's nut that holds it in place was completely lose so I was trying to Adjust it, and since I did it in the dark, i didnt reallize I turned it the wrong way and the rod came out from its place(working on that today) 5.) the slave cylinder comes out extremely slow when I push it in(not sure if thats normal)......... I did bleed the clutch! Oh and when I lift the car up and the front wheels are in the air, all the dam gears go in real smooth and dont grind at all, Not even Reverse gives me a problem. Any thoughts????

 

[OMLJA0512]

Where is this 14 mm bolt you guys are talking about suppose to be located? A picture would help me out a whole lo! Thanks in advance!

 

[1gAWDlaser]

Where is this 14 mm bolt you guys are talking about suppose to be located? A picture would help me out a whole lo! Thanks in advance!

It's actually a 12mm i believe and its right next to your rear motor mount where it bolts to the block.. it is on the very back bottom corner of the block tranny side.

Hey Guys I have a very similar problem as the OP. My car is a 91 Eclipse GS-T, I have a few other problems I haven't seen so far 1.) Clutch engages at the floor 2.) Gears Grind(reverse is a B**** to go in, if i manage to make it go in) 3.) When I do manage to make it run, since the clutch engages on the floor sometimes it stalls on me and I have to push start it to get going again, If I dont push start the starter just wines 4.) the Master cylinder rod's nut that holds it in place was completely lose so I was trying to Adjust it, and since I did it in the dark, i didnt reallize I turned it the wrong way and the rod came out from its place(working on that today) 5.) the slave cylinder comes out extremely slow when I push it in(not sure if thats normal)......... I did bleed the clutch! Oh and when I lift the car up and the front wheels are in the air, all the dam gears go in real smooth and dont grind at all, Not even Reverse gives me a problem. Any thoughts????

Sounds to me like you have tranny and motor separation. Check that your tranny is mated flush to your block.

 

[OMLJA0512]

All right thanks for the reply, for a minute there I thought no one was going to answer Hopefully I'll get to it this weekend! Would you happen to have a part number for the bolt! I am almost 100% that I am missing it!

 

[1gAWDlaser]

All right thanks for the reply, for a minute there I thought no one was going to answer Hopefully I'll get to it this weekend! Would you happen to have a part number for the bolt! I am almost 100% that I am missing it!

I do not have the part number for that bolt, but it is about 2.5 inches long. Wish i could help ya there on the part number. i just went to napa with the right side bolt i believe its 12 mm or 14 mm and got like 4 bolts of different lengths and tried them. Ill see if I can dig the part number up and post it later today

 

[OMLJA0512]

Alright thanks, I'll give that a try!

It's actually a 12mm i believe and its right next to your rear motor mount where it bolts to the block.. it is on the very back bottom corner of the block tranny side.



Sounds to me like you have tranny and motor separation. Check that your tranny is mated flush to your block.

Here is a picture of the area that I believe your talking about, As you can see I am missing a bolt, is this the bolt that you are talking about?



Also would that missing bolt cause the tranny and motor seperation you are talking about?

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