Resolved 1G Clutch adjustment

[Magiceton]

Just put in a new clutch, pressure plate and bearing, bled the system, and clutch won't disengage half the time unless I'm trying to put my foot through the floor, video for clutch fork movement reference. What adjustments can I make?

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[pauleyman]

That's why I was wondering if possibly the pivot ball/fork is worn down after 32 years of action

Almost certainly. You may have a compound of issues

 

[dwb]

Your clutch fork seems to be too far to the passenger side when at rest. Which means the travel is too short. It should be close to centered in the cutout.
Do NA flywheels have a step like turbo models or are they flat? The step height is often the culprit on turbo models.
Otherwise, the issue could be:
Clutch fork worn/bent
Pivot ball worn
Transmission bolts loose/missing
incorrect clutch or T/O bearing
flywheel machined too many times

A shim *might* help compensate for worn pivot ball/fork or a heavily machined flywheel.

 

[Magiceton]

Your clutch fork seems to be too far to the passenger side when at rest. Which means the travel is too short. It should be close to centered in the cutout.
Do NA flywheels have a step like turbo models or are they flat? The step height is often the culprit on turbo models.
Otherwise, the issue could be:
Clutch fork worn/bent
Pivot ball worn
Transmission bolts loose/missing
incorrect clutch or T/O bearing
flywheel machined too many times

A shim *might* help compensate for worn pivot ball/fork or a heavily machined flywheel.

The most recent photo is with the clutch pedal all the way pressed, to the floor, maxed out

 

[dwb]

The most recent photo is with the clutch pedal all the way pressed, to the floor, maxed out

You don't have enough travel because the resting position (pedal up) is already too far right.

 

[Magiceton]

You don't have enough travel because the resting position (pedal up) is already too far right.

First is pressed
Second is released

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[dwb]

The slave is extended too far in your 2nd pic, the pic without pressing the clutch pedal (this is technically the "engaged" position, because the clutch disc is engaged with the flywheel). The slave doesn't have enough travel to disengage the clutch disc from the flywheel because it bottoms out.

You need to figure out how to get the fork moved closer to the slave so the slave has more travel before it bottoms out.

 

[Magiceton]

The slave is extended too far in your 2nd pic, the pic without pressing the clutch pedal (this is technically the "engaged" position, because the clutch disc is engaged with the flywheel). The slave doesn't have enough travel to disengage the clutch disc from the flywheel because it bottoms out.

You need to figure out how to get the fork moved closer to the slave so the slave has more travel before it bottoms out.

I was thinking this little guy right here

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[dwb]

Yes, just a flat washer. Thickness matters. It could help but it's hard to tell.

Since you will have the trans out consider replacing the pivot ball and fork. If this is original stuff, it's likely worn and at least contributing to your issue.

 

[Magiceton]

Yes, just a flat washer. Thickness matters. It could help but it's hard to tell.

Since you will have the trans out consider replacing the pivot ball and fork. If this is original stuff, it's likely worn and at least contributing to your issue.

I've got a replacement trans in mind all together, because 4th doesn't work, and 5th is sometimes crunchy going into it

 

[pauleyman]

Ive never seen an NT that far out. Makes me question fork. Pivot and how many times that flywheel has been machined

 

[Magiceton]

Ive never seen an NT that far out. Makes me question fork. Pivot and how many times that flywheel has been machined

I will say, when I had the old clutch off, I gave the flywheel a feel, there was a decent lip, nothing huge, but enough to feel the difference between where the clutch face met and where it didn't. Also, the fork had shiny spots where it meets the tob

This was the inside of the bell house, and most definitely the reason my clutch was slipping to begin with

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[Magiceton]

I noticed today when I peaked under the dash to check the rods and where the master cylinder adjustment screws are, that the master cylinder is leaking very mildly from the pushrod entrance. What replacement brands does everyone recommend?

 

[miliman13]

I noticed today when I peaked under the dash to check the rods and where the master cylinder adjustment screws are, that the master cylinder is leaking very mildly from the pushrod entrance. What replacement brands does everyone recommend?

I just bought this one and it does a good job fitment was good and I suspect this is the model with a slightly longer rod / more threads

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EXEDY Clutch Master Cylinder MC188 Fits 95-98 Talon 2.0L 94-99 Eclipse 2.0L 2.4L | eBay

Part # MC188. Exedy Details. 1995 - 1998 Eagle Talon Base 2.0L - Modular Clutch Includes Flywheel; 9-1/16" Disc; 17 Spline. Includes: Modular Clutch Includes Flywheel. Quick response design reacts to driver's clutch and brake pedal input.

ebay.us

There’s two part numbers for this same brand same car

I’m not familiar with the NA trans, but it appears at rest your to far to the left.
It’s possible the fork may be bent.

 

[1990dsmkid]

I also just purchased an exedy brand clutch master cylinder. See how it goes.

 

[Magiceton]

I just bought this one and it does a good job fitment was good and I suspect this is the model with a slightly longer rod / more threads

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EXEDY Clutch Master Cylinder MC188 Fits 95-98 Talon 2.0L 94-99 Eclipse 2.0L 2.4L | eBay

Part # MC188. Exedy Details. 1995 - 1998 Eagle Talon Base 2.0L - Modular Clutch Includes Flywheel; 9-1/16" Disc; 17 Spline. Includes: Modular Clutch Includes Flywheel. Quick response design reacts to driver's clutch and brake pedal input.

ebay.us

There’s two part numbers for this same brand same car

I’m not familiar with the NA trans, but it appears at rest your to far to the left.
It’s possible the fork may be bent.

I have a 1.8, that's for a 2.0

 

[Magiceton]

In that case you have a clutch problem or a crank thrust problem. There aren't really any other possibilities I can think of.

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[19Eclipse90]

That looks like the fork popped off the pivot ball or the pivot ball snapped off, allowing the excessive fork movement.

The clip for the throw out bearing is also not on correctly.

 

[pauleyman]

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Pull the fork off and look at it.

 

[RamenPride]

I noticed today when I peaked under the dash to check the rods and where the master cylinder adjustment screws are, that the master cylinder is leaking very mildly from the pushrod entrance. What replacement brands does everyone recommend?

Any of these brands should be fine, but I would go with Aisin, and then Beck Arnley and Exedy as my top 3

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[Magiceton]

So, I think this thread can be closed, as I no longer have clutch disengagement issues after switching the transmissions and using the new fork, pivot ball and tob that came with the donor transmission. Clutch feels 10 times better and the shifts are a lot smoother