1g bov vs. aftermarket

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Just please dont buy an ebay exhaust

 

[Zdrummer15]

Just please dont buy an ebay exhaust

Why? They are far cheaper and from my personal experience, are of good quality, and don't sound bad at all. There's nothing not to like about them if you ask me. I believe the Thermal R&D cat-back is great and all, but I don't think any cat-back is really worth 2-3 times what I payed when mine has given me no issues whatsoever.

 

[BlkGST4Me]

is there any point of putting a bov on an automatic?

 

[dsm-onster]

You have to let off the gas at some point

Yes the frequency of having damaging backflow to the compressor wheel is greatly reduced when running an automatic. But the throttle plate is still after the compressor wheel. And Mitsu felt that there's still significant risk, thus why they still included the bypass valve on automatics. It would surely have saved a bit of money not to include them if they were pointless.

Most notable turbocharged automobile with no factory bypass valve is the gn/t-type. But remember they have the throttle plate before the compressor. The automatic tranny 1983-88 turbofords had no factory bypass valve (their 5speed counterparts didn't either), and those garrett t3s and IHI turbos would fail at the 100k mark FREQUENTLY.

 

[BlkGST4Me]

ive heard that the rfl bov werent all that great. whats another aftermarket company worth looking at?

 

[donniekak]

ive heard that the rfl bov werent all that great. whats another aftermarket company worth looking at?

Tial. 95% of all other aftermarket bov's are more of a ricer product, than a performance one. Any company that has sound as one of their mentioned product features, well, is worried about sound. I want a valve that is designed to work properly. Anyway, if you are going to run real boost (25+ psi) makes them all sound good.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Only 2 valves i've had work perfecty at high boost (30+ psi) is a crushed 1g, and a tial.

The HKS SSQV and the TiAl BOV's are the only valves that will not leak on you at a certain point in boost levels.

A 1g will EVENTUALLY (even crushed) leak.

I really wasn't a fan of the SSQV. It didn't work so well recirculated on my car. Switch to SD and started venting it. Now I'm thinking of getting rid of it again because it's so loud.

You can always remove the "whistle" insert. The valve will become quiet and you will hear a "Whoosh" instead of the ear piercing scream.

 

[diambo4life]

What's all this crushing a 1g valve? What's all this 1g valve won't hold to 30psi? do the dodge garage mod. It ALWAYS works. It ALWAYS holds way over 30 psi. I havn't had any surge issues with the 60-1, 16Gs, the 18g, the big h1c, and the 14b. I've seen 52lb/min with the 60-1; so a single 1g unit should be good for up to that for the most part. You can get TWO 1g valves plus modification for far less than a single larger valve. Two are PLENTY for almost every turbo ever set into a T/E/L engine bay.

What he says above....totally spot on! I run dual 1G BOVs that are dodge-garage modified. Been doing this for years and they work better than any aftermarket BOV out there in my opinion. Work like stock and they can hold 40psi of boost (WITH NO LEAKS) with ease. Oh....and they are cheap too!

 

[dsm-onster]

I most certaily will be adding a second modified 1g valve. I think the dodge garage mod doesn't let the valve open up as much as stock. I actually plan on doing this from what I think you mentioned about this a long time ago either here or on the link forums.

The HKS SSQV and the TiAl BOV's are the only valves that will not leak on you at a certain point in boost levels.

Interesting. How is a 1G bypass valve modified with the dodge garage technique different from the valves you mention? I use my air compressor for boost leak testing. I've had the properly modified 1g valve hold 50psi. Plenty of chamber and boost source port diameter. The chamber always sees the same pressure as the charge air pipes.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Interesting. How is a 1G bypass valve modified with the dodge garage technique different from the valves you mention? I use my air compressor for boost leak testing. I've had the properly modified 1g valve hold 50psi. Plenty of chamber and boost source port diameter. The chamber always sees the same pressure as the charge air pipes.

In the end, it's still modifying something to work the way it wasn't designed. The DG mod will cause compressor surge (and not blow off at low boost levels) with the lower relief housing set to atmospheric pressure (if not supplemented with the proper boost / vacuum solenoids to correct this). To wire them up properly is a PITA. You NEED that lower housing to create a 0 pressure differential across the upper seal (when throttle is open), so that when the upper portion of the BOV sees vacuum (closed throttle), the lower portion, being + pressure at that point, will help counteract the spring pressure holding the piston in place, thereby opening and blowing off the excess boost, saving you a turbo.

The HKS and the TiAl do not need to be modified to hold infinite boost, and won't cause compressor surge when used as they are out of the box.

 

[dsm-onster]

I know how a bypass valve works. You run two if the 1g valve doesnt open up as much as neccesary. Like I said, that doesn't occur untill you're at 48-50lb/min; close to 500whp typically.

The stock 4g63 block was never intented to run 600+ whp either.

Wiring and plumbing a FPR solenoid (3port) is NOT a difficult. Plus and Minus with a hobbs switch

 

[BlkGST4Me]

i think im going to get a greddy type s

 

[Boosted98gsx]

i think im going to get a greddy type s

Will leak.

 

[flyineagletsi]

If your worried about a dgm fluttering like some claim you can always go this cheap and easy route. I have yet to do it myself but I also haven't needed to either. With this type of set up it is easy to switch from a modded 1g bov to a stock bov. This mod is designed to hold more boost but not be as fast acting. The stock design allows for a fast acting valve action. If you set up a dgm like I have depicted you can plug up your barb fitting when at the track and still run it like stock on the street without buying more expensive options out there.

 

[BlkGST4Me]

anyother good aftermarket bov's then? i dont really want a 1g.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

If your worried about a dgm fluttering like some claim you can always go this cheap and easy route. I have yet to do it myself but I also haven't needed to either. With this type of set up it is easy to switch from a modded 1g bov to a stock bov. This mod is designed to hold more boost but not be as fast acting. The stock design allows for a fast acting valve action. If you set up a dgm like I have depicted you can plug up your barb fitting when at the track and still run it like stock on the street without buying more expensive options out there.

Then what's the point in doing this mod? That is exaclty what this mod bypasses.

 

[dsm-onster]

To street the car around.

Frankly, I've never had a 1g dodge garage modded valve flutter badly enough to damage anything. Very little flutter. Some have never had flutter.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

To street the car around.

Frankly, I've never had a 1g dodge garage modded valve flutter badly enough to damage anything. Very little flutter. Some have never had flutter.

I dunno about you, I would rather design my system to work in both applications without any mechanical changes necessary. If that requires me to spend another two hundred bucks, so be it. The versatility outweighs the cost.

 

[dsm-onster]

Then get two valves on your car. The flutter is in major part due to a lack of required venting. As I said, if you need more than one 1g modified valve (dodge garage mod), add another. The MOST reliable, plus very affordable even if you need two; the total investment is 1/3 the cost! Not bad for "throw it on, call it done forever" parts.

The other part of flutter is adjustment for your particular boost. Your boost changes from track to street typically. If you have to adjust, you still have to pop your hood and use a tool. If you don't change your boost, then you don't need to adjust your 1g valve; you don't need more than what a non-modified 1g valve can handle.

Or you need more because your actual boost merrits moddifying thee valve and thus get no flutter from the dodge garage mod. . . One way or the other, the 1g valve works and has tremedous reliability. It's so affordable. That's a problem for some.

Again, I've never had ANY problems with ANY of my turbos using a SINGLE dodge garage modded 1g bypass valve. It works. Maybe I chose turbos that are more durable. . . But wait, I had a turbonetics 60-1 in the mix . . . I have seen little to zero flutter. And the turblownetics lasted to just outside the warranty and failed only from raising the boost to the point where I was flowing over 52lb/min. After that, yea, maybe I needed another 1g valve modified. OR maybe, the t-netics couldn't handle a little pressure. The 60-1 certainly can tolerate 30psi at 8lb/min less than it's choke.

 

[Tanro]

Oh man the 1g is PLENTY loud!

I cant even hear the bi*** unless I vent it.

 

[dsm-onster]

A metal intake pipe magnifies the noise a bit. Also routing your airfilter outside the bay greatly increases the noise. From my experience.

 

[DSMunknown]

^ Not to mention the length of the recirculation tube.

 

[dsm-onster]

You know. I never thought about that. My last recirc setup with the bolton h1c had a SHORT recirc tube about 5 inches vs the, what, over a foot for sure with the 1g engine bay.

 

[donniekak]

I cant even hear the bi*** unless I vent it.

People ask me all of the time what bov i have, because it sounds so good, and loud. I tell them stock, and they are very suprised. Then i tell them, 30 psi makes any bov sound good.
If you insist on aftermarket, tial, none better.

 

[pboglio]

1g CBV here, with a pneumatic pilot valve plumbed in. Holds +40 psi of boost without leaking or compressor surge or having to resort to crushing it.